24 replies to this topic

[Duncy H]

It is just the same in reverse. If it was the cv joint then why would there be the play in the pot joint? Will check though as you have said.

EDIT: I'm fairly sure that the driveshaft spins on both sides when the wheel is turned.

Edited by Duncy H, 12 December 2011 - 07:42 PM.

[Cooperman]

Sounds like the diff then.
To repair the diff you will need a new diff pin, 2 off planet wheels, 2 off planet wheel thrust pads, 2 off fibre diff pads. You may need 2 off bushes for crownwheel and diff casing and if so these need to be either reamed or turned to size. Check also the diff cover bushes and seals. Definately replace the seals.
The only special tool you need is a 3/16" parallel pin punch (mine snapped when I did this job the week before last and I bought a new parallel punch set from Screwfix for just under £9).

[Duncy H]

Hmmm just been and checked and it appears that it might be the cv/drive flange. As with one wheel on the ground, in gear and spinning the other the driveshaft doesn't turn.

Not sure whether to laugh or cry, i needed the car over the weekend and could have probably done this myself. It a big job to change a cv?

[Guess-Works.com]

I had a situation on a car a few years back, where it turned out that the inner part of the pot was spinning on the drive shaft... That made an awful noise.

Also if the diff has let go, I would not stop at just pulling the diff out... had a box here recently, was apparently the second diff failure in a short while... out of an MPi so what's new, until I find a bit of the 1st diff pin which had remained in the box, and gone through the new diff, wrecked the crownwheel and taken out the case.

[Cooperman]

With the right tools it's around 45 minutes to change a CV joint.
You need the big spanner or socket to undo the drive shaft hub nut, a ball-pin splitter to undo the top & bottom swivel pins and track-rod end, a mallet to knock the CV joint out of the hub and swing the hub clear.
Then take out the drive shaft but leave the pot joint outer casing in situ to avoid having to drain the oil.
Put the shaft vertically in a vice, undo the gaiter from the CV joint and hit the CV joint so that it falls off the shaft mind your foot!). Wash the end of the shaft thoroughly to remove all DGS.
It's a good idea to fit a new rubber gaiter at this point, then fit the new CV joint onto the shaft, grease with the 'black grease' supplied with the joint kit, do up the gaiter clips and re-fit the shaft into the pot joint (keep this end very clean by putting a plastic bag or rubber glove over it whilst it's in pieces.
Re-fit the hub onto the CV joint splines and the swivel joints into their seatings, re-fit the swivel pin nuts, re-attach the track rod end and tighten the centre hub nut to around 150 lb.ft torque (or just very tight!) and make sure you use a new split pin of the right size.

[Duncy H]

With the right tools it's around 45 minutes to change a CV joint.

So it will take me about 8 hours then?

I'm guessing the drive flange will be worn too so a good idea to replace as that might too be worn. Thanks for the help, will report back once i've had a go at tackling it

[Cooperman]

Drive flange should be fine.
With the right tools it's very straightforward, without it would be very difficult, as with all Mini jobs really.
Still, once you have the right tools you save a fortune on labour charges and know it's done properly.

[Duncy H]

Turned out to be the splines on the drive flange were completely non existent. So popped on a new drive flange and all is good. I wish all problems could be solved simply like this

[charliedurrant]

So it will take me about 8 hours then?

Made me laugh although 8 hours is quite quick

[Cooperman]

Well done that man