32 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

An 11mm is slightly undersized, so will probably make a difficult job even harder.

[SolarB]

Add lots of grease or Waxoil to the new one.

[AlasdairM]

Add lots of grease or Waxoil to the new one.

 

Sorry I don't understand what you mean. Add grease to the new bolt/nut? 

[nicklouse]

Chisel the old one off. And a bent 7/16 to hold the nut while you turn the bump stop. Presuming later one stud fitting.

[SolarB]

 

Add lots of grease or Waxoil to the new one.

 

Sorry I don't understand what you mean. Add grease to the new bolt/nut? 

 

Sorry, yes, to the bolt, not the rubber.

[AlasdairM]

Just to say a quick thanks. 

 

The job was relatively easy once the spanner was located. I managed with a standard 7/16, and used the closed end of the spanner. I had recently bought this from amazon, and it made taking the old bump stop off easy: https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Good tool

[Ethel]

So it's too late to suggest grinding off the stud from where the rubber used to be (presuming that's why it needs replacing. With he later pattern, single stud, ones you can hold the nut & turn the bumpstop most of the way - even easier if you use a flanged nut.

[MiniTim71]

I managed to remove the knackered two front bump stops using a shortish (normal Draper) 7/16" ring spanner with a slightly offset head.  Once the spanner was in place it seems to stay there allowing me to get some molegrips on the remains of the bumps stops and gradually wind them out.  On one side it unscrewed completely, on the other the bump stop bolt sheared  ...

Now to fit some new Poly ones.

[cal844]

Why fit Poly? It'll just shear the first time you bottom out the arm

[Vince208]

What are the implications of running without the bump stop (normal driving)?

[nicklouse]

What are the implications of running without the bump stop (normal driving)?

We used to run with them 3/4 there (1/4 removed) much more than that and you can start snapping ball joints.

[Spider]

 

What are the implications of running without the bump stop (normal driving)?

We used to run with them 3/4 there (1/4 removed) much more than that and you can start snapping ball joints.

 

 

I did some checks a few years back and I actually found that without a Bump Stop, the Ball Joint don't go as far as binding, but they are right at the onset of that occurring, I suspect the designers did consider that a bump stop can fail without warning and so didn't want to take a not good situation and make it much worse.

One check though I didn't do was to see if the RH Drive Shaft still cleared in the window that it goes through in the Subframe.

All the same, I wouldn't suggest going very far without Bump Stops.On bottoming out, some pretty hard shock (hammering) is transferred to many of the front end components and you can expect a failure of one of these before too long.

In regards to the original topic here of replacing the Bump Stop, I did obtain a Poly Bump Stop a little while back to see what's what with them and I'd suggest giving them a wide birth. They are so hard that in my view, it's similar to having no bump stops only occurring at a higher point. I actually don't fit the original bump stops on a dry set up as they are quite difficult to get in to the subframe to undo the nuts, especially with the twin stud type. I do away with them altogether and fit the Hydro type Bump Stop to the Suspension Arm, these bolt up to the Shock Bolt (after enlarging the hole in the bump stop). They are then a snap to change out.

[Vince208]

What are the implications of running without the bump stop (normal driving)?

[Vince208]

Thanks for the helpful advice. Looks like I need a 7/16" spanner which can be bent.

[Vince208]

https://www.ebay.co....emis&media=COPY