
Undersealing Advice For Mpi
#1
Posted 20 November 2011 - 08:32 PM
I bought a tin of underseal a couple of years ago with the intention of undersealing my MPi. I never got around to it for one reason or another and ended up SORN'ing the car for a period of time. It's now back on the road and I am looking to underseal it along with painting the drums and calipers (yellow) as I had done back in 2006.
I'm looking for advice on undersealing a car as i've never done it before. My plan was to initally underseal the arches when I had the wheels off to paint the drums/calipers. Then I would move onto the remainder of the car.
I bought a set of Draper axle stands a while back and a trolley jack so (I think, correct me if i'm wrong) but I have all the tools I need.
I'm keen to keep the car in as best condition as possible over the next few years and I think this should help, so i'd like to do it right. I am planning on under-sealing the full car next weekend with Hammerrite Underseal and i'm looking for some advice on where to jack the car up, where to put the axle stands and generally the best way to do it.
So i'm just wondering how I go about getting the car on axle stands. Apologies if this is really basic stuff i'd just like to get the advice up front before I start (i'm scared the car comes tumbling down!).
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Picco
#2
Posted 20 November 2011 - 08:46 PM
Make sure this is then dry, jack and support the vehicle as first mentioned.
Now fully inspect inside the front and rear arches especially up in the scuttle close out areas. If there is any loose material ensure its all removed. Now have a good look for any rust, if you find any then treat this before you go any further otherwise YOU WILL be wasting your time.
If its rust free and its all clean then you can apply the protection.
#3
Posted 21 November 2011 - 11:03 AM
Use your axle stands under the subframe as these are the strongest and safest places to support the car. However before you do this i would recommend hosing down the inside of the arches to remove any accumulated muck.
Make sure this is then dry, jack and support the vehicle as first mentioned.
Now fully inspect inside the front and rear arches especially up in the scuttle close out areas. If there is any loose material ensure its all removed. Now have a good look for any rust, if you find any then treat this before you go any further otherwise YOU WILL be wasting your time.
If its rust free and its all clean then you can apply the protection.
Thanks for this advice, if there is any rust how would I go about treating it? I'd like to highlight that I don't have any welding skills or equipment and I would not be confident carrying out this work. I have looked under the car before and haven't spotted any rust to date and my MOTs have never came back with any comments about rust or the need to do any welding work.
Do you think that two axle stands will suffice? i.e. jacking up one side at a time.
Also, do you have a picture of where the subframe is located on the car?
Your help is much appreciated.
#4
Posted 21 November 2011 - 12:57 PM
Use your axle stands under the subframe as these are the strongest and safest places to support the car. However before you do this i would recommend hosing down the inside of the arches to remove any accumulated muck.
Make sure this is then dry, jack and support the vehicle as first mentioned.
Now fully inspect inside the front and rear arches especially up in the scuttle close out areas. If there is any loose material ensure its all removed. Now have a good look for any rust, if you find any then treat this before you go any further otherwise YOU WILL be wasting your time.
If its rust free and its all clean then you can apply the protection.
Thanks for this advice, if there is any rust how would I go about treating it? I'd like to highlight that I don't have any welding skills or equipment and I would not be confident carrying out this work. I have looked under the car before and haven't spotted any rust to date and my MOTs have never came back with any comments about rust or the need to do any welding work.
Do you think that two axle stands will suffice? i.e. jacking up one side at a time.
Also, do you have a picture of where the subframe is located on the car?
Your help is much appreciated.
Mmm this could lead to a can of worms but what you need to look for is any brownish coloured metal / peeling paint or existing underseal.
If there is no signs of this or any holes then hopefully you will be ok but if you suspect anything then the best way forward will be to post some photo's on here and we may be able to point you in the right direction.
Normally if its light surface rust this can be sanded back with either a wire cup on a grinder or something similar. Then you can use something like Krust or Jenolite to treat any remaining signs of rust. This will then need some etch primer (a light dusting only) then some primer followed by top coat.
Two axle stands will be fine for doing either the front or the back but having four would be ideal that way you can get under the car easily.
You need to put the axle stands under the subframe on the flattest sections each side of the subframe as these are the strongest points. On the front this will be by the lower arms and on the back subframe close to the front mounting points.
#5
Posted 21 November 2011 - 01:10 PM
Whilst you're going through all this discomfort I'd definitely check out the sills as much as you can. I'm not sure how you get to look inside them without an endoscope. Back in the day my family had a couple of Minis as daily drivers and they were the weak points.
Is it worth coating the insides with Waxoyl or similar regardless of whether you can see inside them?
Adam
#6
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:11 PM
Hi,
Whilst you're going through all this discomfort I'd definitely check out the sills as much as you can. I'm not sure how you get to look inside them without an endoscope. Back in the day my family had a couple of Minis as daily drivers and they were the weak points.
Is it worth coating the insides with Waxoyl or similar regardless of whether you can see inside them?
Adam
Hi Adam,
Where will I locate the sills? Am I right in saying that they are underneath the rubber strip at the bottom of the door in this picture?

On my car (what I think are the sills) are the same colour as my car - BRG. Am I barking up the wrong tree or is this the area that I should Waxoyl?
Also, why Waxoyl over Underseal? Waxoyl is quite expensive as I can see in the link below.
Is this the Hammerite Waxoyl that you refer to? http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165594
Cheers.
#7
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:38 PM
The kit also has various other nozzles that you can use for the rest of the car.
If your car is as pristine on the underside as the outside then you will be a very lucky camper. The later models of Mini are notorious for rusting out very quickly so if you can get some protection in there you may be able to maintain it for some years to come.
#8
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:53 PM
heres a jacking guide hopefully it will be of some use

as for waxoyl, its all i use its cleaner, looks better and works better. with underseal rust can still spread underneath and its also usually it used by bodgers to cover bad repairs. with waxoyl i use clear and spray it all over underneath and inside any opening ((like inside the sills)yes you are right the sills are the bit under the rubber trim then folds around and joints the floor. heres the kits needed for waxoyling http://www.ebay.co.u...3#ht_1610wt_905 it may seem expensive but do this every year and it'll save you a fortune in rust repairs
heres a sill i recently repaired painted and then clear waxoyled

#9
Posted 22 November 2011 - 05:43 PM
dave
#10
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:18 PM
Yes the items under the door step seal are the outer sills. These have vents located in the bottom of them that you can inject waxoyl into. You can buy a kit from Halfords that comprises of a pump, various nozzles and a large tin of Waxoyl. There is normally a pipe that can be pushed into the cavities then you can pump the waxoyl in.
The kit also has various other nozzles that you can use for the rest of the car.
If your car is as pristine on the underside as the outside then you will be a very lucky camper. The later models of Mini are notorious for rusting out very quickly so if you can get some protection in there you may be able to maintain it for some years to come.
I see, thanks. I didn't realise that the square holes in the sills were for ventalation/waxoyl and the like. Can you confirm that the square holes seen in Valve Bounce's post are the vents that you are referring to? Am I looking at the right thing? I am already looking at £35 for a tin of WaxOyl, however I would rather do this properly so if I need to buy a kit to do the inside of the sills then i'll do that.
My car is a 1999 T plate, it's done 63,000 miles however it has spent large parts of its life off the road in a dry garage covered with a sheet.
#11
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:20 PM
#12
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:22 PM
if your unsure about jacking the car up the best thing to do would be to get a set of drive up ramps and then its alot easier and safer.
heres a jacking guide hopefully it will be of some use
as for waxoyl, its all i use its cleaner, looks better and works better. with underseal rust can still spread underneath and its also usually it used by bodgers to cover bad repairs. with waxoyl i use clear and spray it all over underneath and inside any opening ((like inside the sills)yes you are right the sills are the bit under the rubber trim then folds around and joints the floor. heres the kits needed for waxoyling http://www.ebay.co.u...3#ht_1610wt_905 it may seem expensive but do this every year and it'll save you a fortune in rust repairs
heres a sill i recently repaired painted and then clear waxoyled
Excellent mate, thanks for this. I think your picture of the WaxOyl'd sills helped me with sonikk's post

Dont use underseal horrid rust generating stuff for covering up bodge repairs for an mot. Clean it deal with any rust with paint then use a clear waxoyl to protect.
dave
Thanks Dave, i've decided to bin my 2006 tin of Underseal and go and get a fresh tin of WaxOyl tomorrow! Will 5L suffice for the full car, underside of the car, inner arches and sills? I'm thinking the "clear" stuff too and not the "black" type.
#13
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:26 PM
#14
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:29 PM
Yes they are the vents. They are specifically used for that purpose but ideal to use for injecting Waxoyl. Also if you take apart your rear companion bins ie remove the liners you can spray some waxoyl properly in there.
Thanks! How much WaxOyl do you think I will need?
When you mentioned putting a tube up the vent were you suggesting using something like this:
http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165614
with this:
http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165594
Is 2.5L enough do you think?
Cheers.
Edited by crmpicco, 22 November 2011 - 09:30 PM.
#15
Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:32 PM
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