
Help! Ball Joint Snapped While Driving...doesnt Look Good
#1
Posted 15 November 2011 - 08:16 PM
the drive shaft come out the gear box, ball bearings split everywhere
does the driveshaft screw my gear box up now its been ripped out?,
will i need to replace both sides of the drive shaft or just the side that ripped out?
also will this of damaged my gear box?
can i just buy a new drive shaft and refit it? (this sounds to simple to me)
also it would be nice if someone was passing and could just have a look for me, im in birmingham (obviously i dont expect this for free)
and if i do manage to fix it myself then i will be taking it straight to a garage to get it all checked out for safety reasons
thanks
#2
Posted 15 November 2011 - 08:48 PM
But sadly, if your gearbox/diff has ejected lots of ball bearings, it means that the drive shaft has been forced inwards into the diff housing, and at least the side cover, which retains the bearing, will be wrecked. This is machined as one with the main gearbox casing, so you definitely need a new diff side cover and bearing, plus expertise in setting it all up properly, but more likely will need a complete new casing, plus any other internal parts which are damaged. Not worth the hassle, you may as well find a second-hand gearbox complete, but do check that it is the correct type, with the appropriate final drive ratio.
It is most important to ensure that the ball joints are correctly assembled, or they will break again due to fatigue fracture at the neck of the ball pin, possibly causing a very serious accident. They only break, in the sense that the neck of the ball pin snaps, when they have been shimmed incorrectly and are too tight. When shimmed, and the ball housing (nut) is torqued up correctly, it is vital that you can wiggle the ball in all directions with a couple of fingers only. Assemble with a spot of light oil (3 in one or similar) to help get the feel right, and then inject lots of grease with the gun afterwards. A thou or so of end float, which will be taken up by the grease, is far, far safer than being too tight. But if the ball pin did not break, but pulled out of the housing nut, that was due to severe wear and neglect, including lack or regular greasing. The remedy is obvious.
I suggest that you get an expert to look at it.
#3
Posted 15 November 2011 - 08:52 PM
#4
Posted 15 November 2011 - 08:56 PM
do you still have a pot on the diff casing that looks abit like a huge socket? if so you need a new driveshaft possibally or just replace the end of the shaft with a new cage and balls. as for the ball joints breakings, like stated above could be fatigue or far to tight, nomally if there o tight they try to undo themselves in the hub also. pics wld help?
#5
Posted 15 November 2011 - 08:57 PM
#6
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:03 PM
#7
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:08 PM
Ball joint's obviously will need replacing, as well as anything else which sustained damage? I've heard them snapping because they were too tight in the past as well.
*Also, best check the ball joints on the other side, if they did snap because of overtorquing, it is likely that the same has been done to both sides if the vehicle has been maintained by the same person for any period of time*
Edited by Globule, 15 November 2011 - 09:10 PM.
#8
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:08 PM
#9
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:18 PM
#10
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:20 PM
#11
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:21 PM
Lucky, I had a balljoint let go at high speed on an a road, resulting in rolling multiple times into a field, lol.
recovery driver said he was suprised i hadnt rolled the car but i dont think the drive shaft had popped out at this point
#12
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:45 PM
It is tricky cleaning, greasing and reassembling the pot joint on the car, but it can be done, just. Likely not in the Haynes manual, but it is easier doing it in situ than extracting the outer part of the pot from the diff (which will spill most of your engine oil), and separating the inner spider from the shaft. The pot joint will not pass through the hole in the subframe, however if you do get it all apart you can reassemble the joint on the bench. with new grease and boot clips at least, It then just pushes into the diff until it clicks, the shaft pushes in till it clicks (on car) and then the hub goes on.
I had a pot joint separate on a Ford Focus, due to bottom ball joint separating from the lower arm due to a worn pinch bolt. Fortunately I was only parking at the time. The cleaned and regreased joint lasted for another 40,000 miles or more. The pot joint is somewhat similar, and if there is no visible damage to yours, or the end of the shaft, there is a good chance that it will be ok.
#13
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:56 PM
#14
Posted 15 November 2011 - 10:02 PM
dont worry.....just because i dont know the "real" names of things doesnt mean im an idiot, my dad does most the work and i will take it to a mini garage to get it checked other thoroughly afterwards
#15
Posted 15 November 2011 - 10:08 PM
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