162 replies to this topic

[firefox]

Well if you dont know the condition of the engine you will need to rebore so you will need new pistons and rings,re-grind crankshaft as well, but first you need to strip the engine and take the block and crank to a auto shop and see how much the overbore is and the condition of the crank they will then tell you if you need standard bearings or not, if you follow my posts you will see the auto shop quotet me approx £500 for the pistons i got mine from mini spares for about 180 you need to evaluate parts from the stripdown and rebuild, but simple things Clutch oil seal from mini spares as one does not come in the engine gasket pack also got a good quality garket set as the clutch housing one is a critical thickness and the cheap ones my alter the endfloat on the ideler gears you need new core plugs, gallery oil plugs, head gasket set, other oil seals should be in the gasket pack, are you doing the head as well

You only need a timing disc and DTI gauge if are upgrading the cam shaft

Edited by firefox, 15 November 2011 - 02:06 PM.

[Brookesy]

First step for me is getting it stripped down and cleaned and checking for damage
Yeah will be doing the head. It's still standard so going to get it skimmed and cleaned up as per vizard and the numerous threads on here.
Cam shaft will hopefully be getting changed to a Kent 66 or 76 (still researching those)
On top of that still lots of yellow bible to read and research to come

[firefox]

Check this out

http://www.scparts.c...7f3b8158c74513a

[firefox]

Well boys the clinder head is on just about finished, dizzy drive to go in and fit some ancilleries
what is the tappet gap you recomend might as well do it now before i put the engine back in
just a reminder 1275 12HA83AA 10.1

Edited by firefox, 15 November 2011 - 06:50 PM.

[firefox]

[Brookesy]

Looks top notch! Must be pretty darn chuffed so far?

[firefox]

Yeah over the moon bud need to patch the block up after putting the core plugs in, the red looks crap in the photo
but in real terms its spot on, engine going back in next monday cant wait to fire it up

[Brookesy]

Can you dry run it first in any way? or is it just a case of putting it in and hoping all is good?

Also i plan to build my engine in the shed at the bottom of the garden. At what point would you say to move the build to somewhere accesible (ie the garage) where it can be craned in?

Any chance of a few pics of the mini and engine bay aswell?

[firefox]

Can you dry run it first in any way? or is it just a case of putting it in and hoping all is good?

Also i plan to build my engine in the shed at the bottom of the garden. At what point would you say to move the build to somewhere accesible (ie the garage) where it can be craned in?

Any chance of a few pics of the mini and engine bay aswell?

Yeah will do some tomorrow bud, garden shed and garage how far is the carry, 2 men engine and gearbox bare no clutch housing clutch or flywheel or cylinder head and timing, it will break your back

[Brookesy]

Hmmmm may just try and scrape some room in the garage in that case... saves moving everything half way through the build i suppose

may i ask what the equipment is on top of the block in the first photo?

[AndyMiniMad.]

You have done a good job Mr Fox!! Keep the pictures coming..

[firefox]

Hmmmm may just try and scrape some room in the garage in that case... saves moving everything half way through the build i suppose

may i ask what the equipment is on top of the block in the first photo?

It's a dti gauge bud with a magnectic base you will need one but to set your cam timing if you are upgrading it , i got it off ebay new for £14-50 plus a fiver postage

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2648 and
http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2648

Both came next day delivery on stadard postage sorry disk was free postage

Edited by firefox, 15 November 2011 - 11:11 PM.

[Brookesy]

Ah ok Cheers!

[Cooperman]

Now that is looking really good.
I normally fit the distributor, and time it for initial start-up, the alternator, fan, fan belt and radiator before installing. It does save a lot of scraped knuckles.
Also when the engine is being lowered and in not quite in connect the speedo cable into the gearbox. It's so much neasier if you do this.
Don't re-fi the servo until you have fitted and bled the clutch and set the over-throw nuts accurately. I usually start the engine before re-fitting he servo.
Also, fit the gear linkage before fitting the exhaust manifold and pipe,as if you fit the exhaust first, you can't get the bolt into the front end on the gear change rods (been there, done that).

Edited by Cooperman, 16 November 2011 - 05:44 PM.

[firefox]

Thanks for that bud i was going to fit the manifild but not now, and the rad is a good idea, servo i wish i had one ha ha ha
had abugger of a time today getting the dizzy drive in, it said large sement to 4 O clock ha ha ha i was measuring the gap
then i twigged TDC 7&8 rocking i have the rotor pointing to no 1 lead about 2 O clock so i think it is correct, i did it when i last put the engine in they had it 180 degrees out, with the oil gauge adapter i could not set the timing the vacuum was hitting it

How do you time it for initial start-up peter

Edited by firefox, 16 November 2011 - 11:21 PM.