162 replies to this topic

[firefox]

Yeah pleased about that bud, the oil thrower washer has an F on it the convex side so i gather this faces you, i have put the oil seal in the cover it was a push fit so i put a thin layer of RTV on the outside and pressed it home ended up with a thin line squeezing out
super, i will look at the torque for the cover if there is one and take care when i tighten it up should get the engine back in on monday providing i can get a hoist from HSS hire i have got the chain cradle from Mini Machine, so i will see how it goes, i fitted the gallery plugs with araldite and drifted them just below the face so should be sound
next hurdel tomorrow is the clutch end should be ok with the tips you have given me

Edited by firefox, 12 November 2011 - 05:40 PM.

[Cooperman]

Sounds like excellent progress here.
How is the transfer gear end float?
Clutch end is relatively easy. Is it a Verto clutch? If it is, just do it up.
You need to lightly fit the 2 large clutch overthrow nuts, but just get them started. You finally adjust them when the engine is in and the clutch operates normally.
If it's a pre-Verto, you need to set the adjustment stop. Pull the clutch operating arm as far away from the engine as you can and set the gap between the arm and the small 7/16" AF bolt to 0.020". Check for any wear in the clevis pins and replace them if they are too worn. A good tip is to put the lower (larger) clevis pin in from the back of the engine pointing forwards. This enables the split pin to be easily fitted and, when necessary, easily removed. Use a good amount of grease on those pins and on the plunger which carries the clutch release bearing. In fact, before fitting the clutch cover I always remove that plunger and clean and grease it.
Check the state of the engine mounting before fitting the clutch cover.
Once the engine is in and the clutch connected and working it's time to set the overthrow stop nuts:
Have someone push the clutch pedal right down. Then screw the inner nut right in by fingers until it's just touching the cover. Screw the outer nut in until it touches the inner nut, without moving the inner nut and lock those nuts together. it's as easy as that. However, before doing that I always start & run the engine and check the clutch operation.

[firefox]

Havent checked the end float yet i did a dry run yesterday well didn't put it fully on how the hell do you get feeler gauages in to measure it ??

It is a verto clutch, its new, fitted it before i fitted the engine, the overthrow nuts, do you mean the centre one with the locknut, engine mountings are new also, and clutch slave, in fact there isn't much on the car that isn't

Edited by firefox, 12 November 2011 - 09:23 PM.

[AndyMiniMad.]

You can check the end float (roughly) by squeezing your feeler gauge in between the primary drive gear and the "C" washer, should be no more than 6 thou on you engine. if its 3 or 4 thou then thats perfect...When you do up the bolts on your timing cover, make sure you have the harmonic damper (pully) fitted onto the crank as this will centralise the damper in the oil seal and should mean no leaks when you run up the engine, I forgot to do this on the first build of my 1380 and Cooperman is right..It was a proper bugger to sort out with the engine fitted.

The overthrow nuts ar the two big nuts that go on the end of the plunger arm once its all back together..They dont need adjusted untill the engine is back in the car and the clutch hydrolics are connected up..thats them in this picy..

Use plenty of copperslip on the shaft...Oo..er..

And dont forget this bit...

[firefox]

AHHHHHH thats them, yeah i fitted the crank pully before bolting up, good old haynes manual nice tip, and lubed it, sandwiched the gasket with RTV if it leaks i will stand in woollies window them overthow nuts are a problem for me i have not got a spanner thin enough the hold the back one may need to grind one down, one question i need to ask, i have this cradle from Mini machine to lift the engine back in the beauty of it is it tilts the engine back at a good angle, doing this i want to fit the downpipes and carbs whilst the engine is out, is it possible to drop the engine in with them on, providing the downpipes are at a decent angle pointing down

[firefox]

Clutch oil seal mini spares 13H2934MS pig to fit, inside lip kept deforming and the spring kept popping out crap of a job

[Brookesy]

Thanks for the inspiration just purchased a 998 and a 12g295 head time to print this thread out later I think!

[Cooperman]

Clutch oil seal mini spares 13H2934MS pig to fit, inside lip kept deforming and the spring kept popping out crap of a job

There is a special tool for this job, called a 'top hat tool' 'cause it's shaped like a top hat (no sh*t sherlock!). It comes with a sleeve to cover the primary gear splines and you slide the seal on over the sleeve until it just touches the casing, then put the top-hat tool over the sleeve and tap the end of it which pushes the seal in squarely. Actually it has a hole in the end and you can use a flywheel bolt through the hole into the end of the crank. When the bolt is fully tightened the seal is correctly installed. But then, if you ain't got that tool ...........................!

[firefox]

Clutch oil seal mini spares 13H2934MS pig to fit, inside lip kept deforming and the spring kept popping out crap of a job

There is a special tool for this job, called a 'top hat tool' 'cause it's shaped like a top hat (no sh*t sherlock!). It comes with a sleeve to cover the primary gear splines and you slide the seal on over the sleeve until it just touches the casing, then put the top-hat tool over the sleeve and tap the end of it which pushes the seal in squarely. Actually it has a hole in the end and you can use a flywheel bolt through the hole into the end of the crank. When the bolt is fully tightened the seal is correctly installed. But then, if you ain't got that tool ...........................!

Ahhhh well it is in now got it over the primary gear and then installed it ended up tapping it in very slowley round and round
i have set it flush i hope that is correct, i have had a pig of a day today, my son asked me to change his auxilary belt on a vectra 20T SRI we put a jack under the sump to lift the engine to get to a bolt as his forum said, we cracked it my heart fell out when i looked under and saw the oil dripping out, it took me 30 min to get the engine mounting off a 30 seconds to put it back so we could drop the jack its about 30mm long i have a welder coming around in the morning to aloy weld it, i am still very upset
anyway i have got the clutch in the mini didn't get anything done today but tomorrow i should get the outer clutch cover on and the head i hope see how i get on, going to have a stiff drink now just hope i can sleep ohhh and on the above there was no need to jack the car the bolt didn't need to come off

[firefox]

Thanks for the inspiration just purchased a 998 and a 12g295 head time to print this thread out later I think!

Good lad hope it goes well for u i have some photo's to upload when i find the time, will be soon

[AndyMiniMad.]

I dont have the special tool for fitting the oil seal...I tend to fit the seal into the transfer case before its on the engine. that way I can lay it on a flat surface and drift it in with a block of wood...Just need to be ultra careful when fitting the housing over the crank and primary gear splines...Loads of masking tape!!
Glad you got it all sorted anyway..the worst is over!!??

[firefox]

Yeah i masked it well up but and oiled it , i had trouble with the clutch casing, i gunked all the gasket up with Hylomar, and tried to fit it, would it hell meet face to face
i tapped it shook it had thin blades it trying to lift the gears, antway after a few attempts it went, that tip of yours using the main bearing shell to lock the crank worked wonders, so the engine is ready for the head now just need to drop the dizzy drive in, for anybody reading this the clutch cover bolts be carefull some bolts go into the block and some ino the gearbox casing they both have differnet threads so make sure you can finger tight them, if you cant have a look at the stud thread, and the clutch plate the hub the bit that sticks out goes to the flywheel is should say flywheel side on the plate

Edited by firefox, 15 November 2011 - 09:30 AM.

[Brookesy]

Sorry for a cheeky hijak again. What stuff do I need/ have you found come in handy during the build. Day off tommorow so off to local car shop to get myself set up.
so far on my list I have
Engine gasket set
The 'engine lube mixture'
Woodruf keys(any certain sizes I should get?)
Timing disc
Loads of rags!

Cheers mike

Edited by Brookesy, 15 November 2011 - 10:51 AM.

[firefox]

Sorry for a cheeky hijak again. What stuff do I need/ have you found come in handy during the build. Day off tommorow so off to local car shop to get myself set up.
so far on my list I have
Engine gasket set
The 'engine lube mixture'
Woodruf keys(any certain sizes I should get?)
Timing disc
Loads of rags!

Cheers mike

Hi Bud what have you done, how for have you got with the engine, has it been rebored and new pistons main bearings, big end bearings, what was the reason for stripping your engine

[Brookesy]

Not got anywhere yet its all in the process of arriving. Just wanted to get tools/oils/seals e.t.c ready, save a bit of faffing later
Just stripping the engine to learn really. Plus my mini is my daily drive so can't whip the engine out to upgrade it. So strip and rebuild this one as a fast road then swap later