162 replies to this topic

[firefox]

It's going well. You certainly put the half-moon seal in corectly. Hope you remembered the small O-ring between block and gearbox faces - please say "Yes".

I had a little panic there you mean the one that goes in the recessed oil feed pipe

Yeah thats the one...its an "o" ring...And we love Photobucket...

That crank tail looks a bit dodgy! is it just the picture?

No it has a few scars in it clutch and flywheel still fit good though its smooth i am going to grind it in as you said
i might use both grades rough and smooth

[AndyMiniMad.]

Yeah.. always a good idea to lap the flywheel onto the tail...so long as there are no high spots you should be ok...

[firefox]

Flash was on but you can see the half moon seal

[firefox]

It's going well. You certainly put the half-moon seal in corectly. Hope you remembered the small O-ring between block and gearbox faces - please say "Yes".

I had a little panic there you mean the one that goes in the recessed oil feed pipe

Yeah thats the one...its an "o" ring...And we love Photobucket...Did you prime the pump before fitting it?

That crank tail looks a bit dodgy! is it just the picture?

yes i filled it full of the lube i am using

[Cooperman]

When you fit the transfer gear and transfer gear case you must fit it with no 'red' seal fitted into the case. This is so that you can check that the transfer gear has some end-float. It needs between 0.003" and 0.007" end float. It is difficult to measure this, but you can use your judgement with this. Strictly speaking you should put the transfer gear into it's bearing on the gearbox, then fit the transfer gear case onto the 'box before fitting the engine and measure the float with feeler gauges, then strip it down again to put the engine on the box. However, if it's a re-build and the same bearing, casing and 'box are being used just do a 'float-check' before finally fitting the primary gear and seal. I've had a transfer gear go 'solid' and the problem was that the gasket was an after-market one which was about 0.004" too thin. Fitted an original Rover gasket and it was fine. It's wise to check this.
The fit the primary gear prior to fitting the red seal and check the end float of that. It should be 0.002" to 0.006". If it floats more than that you can get thicker thrust pads of vsarying thicknesses to suit (see Mini Spares web site). Don't forget to inspect the inner thrust ring for the primary gear and make sure you fit it the correct way around - the chamfer edge goes against the crankshaft face.

[firefox]

The red seal you mean the red clutch oil seal that goes over the crank shaft, can i hylomar the gasket, and can i fit the red seal before the primary gear and u washer

no you have said above to fit the primary gear first then the seal hence the masking tape

Edited by firefox, 09 November 2011 - 07:36 PM.

[Cooperman]

The red seal you mean the red clutch oil seal that goes over the crank shaft, can i hylomar the gasket, and can i fit the red seal before the primary gear and u washer

no you have said above to fit the primary gear first then the seal hence the masking tape

Yes, a bit of Hylomar on the gasket. Check the transfer gear end float, then, assuming that's OK fit the primary gear and check the end float, then fit the primary gear crankshaft seal (the Red Seal) using masking tape to prevent to the seal lip from the splines. Make sure the seal sits nice and squarely in the housing.
It's best to 'lap' the flywheel onto the crank before fitting the transfer gear case or it's difficult to rotate the flywheel. Clean off all the fine grinding paste before fitting the primary gear. Does your new primary gear need new bushes? A small amount of lateral play is OK, but if it's excessive new bushes are needed.

[AndyMiniMad.]

Its a bit late now I suppose but Coops is correct. the end float should be checked during a dry build.



Ialways tape up the primary drive before fitting the transfer housing.So as not to damage the oil seal.



And dont forget to fit this bit...



Hope this helps..

[Cooperman]

I do apologise for not mentioning the transfer gear check during a 'dummy build'. You sort-of got ahead of me as you're going so well with this. I should think the transfer gear will check-out OK, but do make the check as if it's a bit tight it can easily be sorted. If tight it will be the gasket thickness and I know of several people who have had a problem with this due to 'after-market' crap gasket quality.

[firefox]

I do apologise for not mentioning the transfer gear check during a 'dummy build'. You sort-of got ahead of me as you're going so well with this. I should think the transfer gear will check-out OK, but do make the check as if it's a bit tight it can easily be sorted. If tight it will be the gasket thickness and I know of several people who have had a problem with this due to 'after-market' crap gasket quality.

Yeah i got the gasket set from mini spares i hope it's ok, yes i have that cover washer it has 3 or 4 points on the inner rim i have that bagged up with the primary gear just waiting for my gallery plugs should have them for the weekend so with the above information i have a lot to do

[firefox]

Havent got a clue its the one that was in the engine 12AH83AA metro 10.1 high comp 1275 11985/1986 the omly year it was produced

Dont know which cam was fitted in this engine and the code doesnt seam to work in the engine decoder thingy...but someone will come by soon and tell us...

Andy i have been rooting on the net one mg metro site says the 12ha engine had a ported head larger valves which mine has and a peakier cam shaft the only difference in the tourbo is the actual turbo, they used the same engine set up, the metro book says under camshaft heading valve lift 0,318 inlet opens 16 de btdc closes 56 abdc exhaust opens 59 bbdc closes 29 atdc gobbldegook to me but you might understand

[firefox]

OHHH and it pushes out 74 BHP

[Cooperman]

I do apologise for not mentioning the transfer gear check during a 'dummy build'. You sort-of got ahead of me as you're going so well with this. I should think the transfer gear will check-out OK, but do make the check as if it's a bit tight it can easily be sorted. If tight it will be the gasket thickness and I know of several people who have had a problem with this due to 'after-market' crap gasket quality.

Yeah i got the gasket set from mini spares i hope it's ok, yes i have that cover washer it has 3 or 4 points on the inner rim i have that bagged up with the primary gear just waiting for my gallery plugs should have them for the weekend so with the above information i have a lot to do

If it's a Mini Spares gasket it should be right - but check that the transfer gear rotates OK and doesn't have too much end float.
The inner thrust ring will be fine. If the primary gear has OK bushes but a bit too much end float, there is a 'fiddle' you can do to correct it which not many people know about. It's a 'cheat', but it works OK so let me know if you have an end float problem.

[AndyMiniMad.]

Ah! so its an MG metro cam then... in my opinion its just about the best standard cam that was fitted to the A series engine. Not sure you need to worry about timing it in to any real accuracy though.. dot to dot should be fine. But if you've got the DTI and timing wheel then it certainly wont do any harm..My 1312 engine block is still at the machine shop so im enjoying looking at this build.. just want to get torn into mine now!!

[firefox]

Daft question jumping forward, if i fit the carbs and the exhaust downpipes, will i still be able to lift the engine in i am going to get the engine cradle from Mini-machine

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