162 replies to this topic

[Brookesy]

You got any photos of you stripping the engine at all? would be nice just a few to help get my and hopefully some others heads around some of it

[firefox]

You got any photos of you stripping the engine at all? would be nice just a few to help get my and hopefully some others heads around some of it

I have some on my phone i will have a look tomorrow and see if any are usefull, breaking it apart isnt that hard as long as you bag and mark everything cooperman wrote a list in the other post to break it down
have you seen it one thing i did find out today i marked the journal caps but forgot to mark the matching con rod, lucky i kept them in order, engineer noticed this when he was fitting the pistons
and he has kindly pop marked them for me, apparenty they are matching and cannot be mixed up

Edited by firefox, 03 November 2011 - 11:10 PM.

[Cooperman]

You are really going well with this - keep on keeping on. Before going much further fit the oil gallery core plugs. The water core plugs can be done later when the engine is on the gearbox.
The next thing is to fit the crank, as described, then check the end float. Check the float before you fit the rods to the big-end journals just in case the float is over 0.005".
Then fit the new cam followers then the cam into the cam bearings, making sure you use your engine assembly mixture (I'll call it that). Don't damage the cam bearings as you feed the cam through.
Once the cam is installed fit the oil pump. Make sure you fill the oil pump with engine assembly mixture before fitting or it will be difficult to get the oil pressure up when you are ready to start it up. The engine front plate, cam retention plate and timing gears and chain fitted. Use Loctite on the cam retention plate bolts.
Before finally fitting the timing gears and chain, lightly linish the inside of the sprockets so that they slide easily on the cam and crank. Sometimes the woodruff keys need a very light filing so that the sprockets slide on nicely. The timing is achieved by bringing the pistons on 1 & 4 to top dead centre (TDC), then lining up the dots on the two sprockets so that they are in line with each other and with the centres of crank and cam. The cam timing can be checked accurately and set spot-on by the use of offset woodruff keys, but that needs describing separately. Let me know if you want to do this and I'll do a cam timing procedure.
With the cam, oil pump, timing gears/chain all fitted, put the large thin cam retaining nut on with a lock tab.
The engine is now ready to go back onto the gearbox. The distributor drive can be installed later, as can the push rods and head.
Let's cover this when the short engine is all together - early next week maybe.
This is now the nice part of the whole job.
remember, keep everything clean.

[Brookesy]

In terms of the work you have done so far and how much more it will take, would you have upgraded to a 1275 if you had originally had a 998? Or are you simply doing this for the pleasure/learning side of things?

[charliedurrant]

In terms of the work you have done so far and how much more it will take, would you have upgraded to a 1275 if you had originally had a 998? Or are you simply doing this for the pleasure/learning side of things?

Booksey, not my thread (sorry to firefox) but I will be doing pretty much as firefox is doing on a 998 A+ so you will see the differences - not many really. 1275s are getting pricey and 998s are so cheap. My 998 has leaking valves and rings (used a compression tester) and I will be using the forum to detail everything so I can put it back together. I'll be taking many photos as I'm not as quick as firefox....! Mine could drive but firefox's had a busted piston ring so his was a definate 'need'....

Charlie

[firefox]

In terms of the work you have done so far and how much more it will take, would you have upgraded to a 1275 if you had originally had a 998? Or are you simply doing this for the pleasure/learning side of things?

Booksey, not my thread (sorry to firefox) but I will be doing pretty much as firefox is doing on a 998 A+ so you will see the differences - not many really. 1275s are getting pricey and 998s are so cheap. My 998 has leaking valves and rings (used a compression tester) and I will be using the forum to detail everything so I can put it back together. I'll be taking many photos as I'm not as quick as firefox....! Mine could drive but firefox's had a busted piston ring so his was a definate 'need'....

Charlie

Yeah no problem mine had a 998 but i was ofered the 1275 for £100 a few years ago all painted alloy cover looked fine
i dont think i had a broken ring when i installed it, i had a sod of a job with the carbs, everytime i started the engine it went fro 0 to 4/5 thousand revs i this is what has nacked it

[firefox]

You are really going well with this - keep on keeping on. Before going much further fit the oil gallery core plugs. The water core plugs can be done later when the engine is on the gearbox.
The next thing is to fit the crank, as described, then check the end float. Check the float before you fit the rods to the big-end journals just in case the float is over 0.005".
Then fit the new cam followers then the cam into the cam bearings, making sure you use your engine assembly mixture (I'll call it that). Don't damage the cam bearings as you feed the cam through.
Once the cam is installed fit the oil pump. Make sure you fill the oil pump with engine assembly mixture before fitting or it will be difficult to get the oil pressure up when you are ready to start it up. The engine front plate, cam retention plate and timing gears and chain fitted. Use Loctite on the cam retention plate bolts.
Before finally fitting the timing gears and chain, lightly linish the inside of the sprockets so that they slide easily on the cam and crank. Sometimes the woodruff keys need a very light filing so that the sprockets slide on nicely. The timing is achieved by bringing the pistons on 1 & 4 to top dead centre (TDC), then lining up the dots on the two sprockets so that they are in line with each other and with the centres of crank and cam. The cam timing can be checked accurately and set spot-on by the use of offset woodruff keys, but that needs describing separately. Let me know if you want to do this and I'll do a cam timing procedure.
With the cam, oil pump, timing gears/chain all fitted, put the large thin cam retaining nut on with a lock tab.
The engine is now ready to go back onto the gearbox. The distributor drive can be installed later, as can the push rods and head.
Let's cover this when the short engine is all together - early next week maybe.
This is now the nice part of the whole job.
remember, keep everything clean.

Hi peter Thanks i was a little worried about the cam timing if it all goes back the same will it need accurate timing
i have read somewhere that using the dots to set it, it can be out up to 15 degrees and each degree looses 1Hp

[firefox]

Hi Peter when i fit the oil pump do i need the put Hylomar on the gasket

[charliedurrant]

Hi Peter when i fit the oil pump do i need the put Hylomar on the gasket

Just one of the questions I have been pre-empting see:

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=206016

The most replied to topic on the forum!

[firefox]

Hi Peter when i fit the oil pump do i need the put Hylomar on the gasket

Just one of the questions I have been pre-empting see:

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=206016

The most replied to topic on the forum!

Yeah seen that bud, cooperman did tell me to use it on all gaskets i was just checking on the oil pump as it ony has 2 fixing bolts i dont think a small wipe will do any harm

[jaydee]

You are really going well with this - keep on keeping on. Before going much further fit the oil gallery core plugs. The water core plugs can be done later when the engine is on the gearbox.
The next thing is to fit the crank, as described, then check the end float. Check the float before you fit the rods to the big-end journals just in case the float is over 0.005".
Then fit the new cam followers then the cam into the cam bearings, making sure you use your engine assembly mixture (I'll call it that). Don't damage the cam bearings as you feed the cam through.
Once the cam is installed fit the oil pump. Make sure you fill the oil pump with engine assembly mixture before fitting or it will be difficult to get the oil pressure up when you are ready to start it up. The engine front plate, cam retention plate and timing gears and chain fitted. Use Loctite on the cam retention plate bolts.
Before finally fitting the timing gears and chain, lightly linish the inside of the sprockets so that they slide easily on the cam and crank. Sometimes the woodruff keys need a very light filing so that the sprockets slide on nicely. The timing is achieved by bringing the pistons on 1 & 4 to top dead centre (TDC), then lining up the dots on the two sprockets so that they are in line with each other and with the centres of crank and cam. The cam timing can be checked accurately and set spot-on by the use of offset woodruff keys, but that needs describing separately. Let me know if you want to do this and I'll do a cam timing procedure.
With the cam, oil pump, timing gears/chain all fitted, put the large thin cam retaining nut on with a lock tab.
The engine is now ready to go back onto the gearbox. The distributor drive can be installed later, as can the push rods and head.
Let's cover this when the short engine is all together - early next week maybe.
This is now the nice part of the whole job.
remember, keep everything clean.

Hi peter Thanks i was a little worried about the cam timing if it all goes back the same will it need accurate timing
i have read somewhere that using the dots to set it, it can be out up to 15 degrees and each degree looses 1Hp

Maybe on race engines, but i have serious doubt that on a street engine with siamese ports there will be such a dramatic difference.
Dial it in as per manifacturer specs, and check also valve lift at overlap, when timing is spot on you should have equal lift. Then advance the cam timing few degrees more than the figure achieved, and you should be ok even when the timing chain wears out.

[firefox]

You are really going well with this - keep on keeping on. Before going much further fit the oil gallery core plugs. The water core plugs can be done later when the engine is on the gearbox.
The next thing is to fit the crank, as described, then check the end float. Check the float before you fit the rods to the big-end journals just in case the float is over 0.005".
Then fit the new cam followers then the cam into the cam bearings, making sure you use your engine assembly mixture (I'll call it that). Don't damage the cam bearings as you feed the cam through.
Once the cam is installed fit the oil pump. Make sure you fill the oil pump with engine assembly mixture before fitting or it will be difficult to get the oil pressure up when you are ready to start it up. The engine front plate, cam retention plate and timing gears and chain fitted. Use Loctite on the cam retention plate bolts.
Before finally fitting the timing gears and chain, lightly linish the inside of the sprockets so that they slide easily on the cam and crank. Sometimes the woodruff keys need a very light filing so that the sprockets slide on nicely. The timing is achieved by bringing the pistons on 1 & 4 to top dead centre (TDC), then lining up the dots on the two sprockets so that they are in line with each other and with the centres of crank and cam. The cam timing can be checked accurately and set spot-on by the use of offset woodruff keys, but that needs describing separately. Let me know if you want to do this and I'll do a cam timing procedure.
With the cam, oil pump, timing gears/chain all fitted, put the large thin cam retaining nut on with a lock tab.
The engine is now ready to go back onto the gearbox. The distributor drive can be installed later, as can the push rods and head.
Let's cover this when the short engine is all together - early next week maybe.
This is now the nice part of the whole job.
remember, keep everything clean.

Hi peter Thanks i was a little worried about the cam timing if it all goes back the same will it need accurate timing
i have read somewhere that using the dots to set it, it can be out up to 15 degrees and each degree looses 1Hp

Maybe on race engines, but i have serious doubt that on a street engine with siamese ports there will be such a dramatic difference.
Dial it in as per manifacturer specs, and check also valve lift at overlap, when timing is spot on you should have equal lift. Then advance the cam timing few degrees more than the figure achieved, and you should be ok even when the timing chain wears out.

My knees are wibbleing i need idot language, this is the setup i am not sure about but when we get there i am sure you all will help just to clar one thing is the andvance with offset woodruf keys as cooperman said

[Cooperman]

I never used to check for road engines, but then I did and found the cam was 9 degs retarded, so now I always check and correct as necessary with offset woodruff keys. Unless it's an engine which comes to pieces often and has frequent cam changes I don't normally advise the vernier sprockets as they are expensive. Offset woodruff keys are cheap for what they do.
It's really up to you whether to measure the cam timing, but if you want to, you need a 360 degree cam protractor and a dial gauge on a magnetic base.
If you do want to do this, post back on here and I'll do a write up for the procedure. It really is quite simple, even though it doesn't sound like it is.

Edited by Cooperman, 04 November 2011 - 03:08 PM.

[charliedurrant]

Hi Peter when i fit the oil pump do i need the put Hylomar on the gasket

Just one of the questions I have been pre-empting see:

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=206016

The most replied to topic on the forum!

Yeah seen that bud, cooperman did tell me to use it on all gaskets i was just checking on the oil pump as it ony has 2 fixing bolts i dont think a small wipe will do any harm

I wouldn't use it on a host of gaskets, namely those which are on parts you may take off on a 'semi regular' basis i.e. exhaust and the carb.

I put some on my exhaust manifold gasket, then had to remove the exhaust for fitting after bench testing. The gasket paper was knackered and I had to buy a new one. If it's on a part that will not come off again (hopefully not for a long time) then why not (excluding the head gasket). Also on the Bob Sollis DVD he does mention to specifically not use it on one particular gasket. I'm away from home at the mo and will have to watch the 4 hours again to find out which one it was.

If the gasket is clearly not sealing then there is no other choice and if the part is consistantly flooded with oil (lower half) then it seems it should always be used.....It's vague though, so hence my open question.

Charlie

[firefox]

Hi Peter when i fit the oil pump do i need the put Hylomar on the gasket

Just one of the questions I have been pre-empting see:

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=206016

The most replied to topic on the forum!

Yeah seen that bud, cooperman did tell me to use it on all gaskets i was just checking on the oil pump as it ony has 2 fixing bolts i dont think a small wipe will do any harm

I wouldn't use it on a host of gaskets, namely those which are on parts you may take off on a 'semi regular' basis i.e. exhaust and the carb.

I put some on my exhaust manifold gasket, then had to remove the exhaust for fitting after bench testing. The gasket paper was knackered and I had to buy a new one. If it's on a part that will not come off again (hopefully not for a long time) then why not (excluding the head gasket). Also on the Bob Sollis DVD he does mention to specifically not use it on one particular gasket. I'm away from home at the mo and will have to watch the 4 hours again to find out which one it was.

If the gasket is clearly not sealing then there is no other choice and if the part is consistantly flooded with oil (lower half) then it seems it should always be used.....It's vague though, so hence my open question.

Charlie

Yeah as you say parts that wont be parted again, gearbox to block ect i include the oil pump, when i stripped the engine they had used it on the timing cover as well, clutch housing as well i will use my common when assembeling i would never put any compound on the head gasket but all the other bits where there could be oil leakage