
1275 Basic Engine Rebuild Carried Over From Stupid Dumb Question
#136
Posted 17 November 2011 - 08:54 PM
If i connect a battery to the engine, negative to block and live to the sarter solenoid set it to TDC on no 1 pot
lay no 1 plug on the head bolts turn and the dizzy until i get a spark's , is this how to set the initial timing
with electronic ignition
#137
Posted 17 November 2011 - 09:01 PM
Oh! before you let it fire up though...DO make sure you turn it over with the plugs out untill you get oil presure..
Edited by AndyMiniMad., 17 November 2011 - 09:03 PM.
#138
Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:28 AM
Yah thats going to be the bit sparking it up cant wait, you any ideas on degrees on the timing i have been told about 12 BTDCI just left it...Never bothered with initial timing. I set the dizzy drive spindle and made sure the rotor arn was pointing to number 1 with piston 1 at TDC on the fireing stroke and then fitted everything else ready to fire it up...I did turn the dizzy so that the vacuume advance was facing straight up, and then off she went. Set the timing with a strobe when it was running and that was it. prob not the correct way to do it.... but what the hell it works...
Oh! before you let it fire up though...DO make sure you turn it over with the plugs out untill you get oil presure..
running unleaded i dont want it to race away, i think that is what ducked it in the first place
#139
Posted 18 November 2011 - 12:34 PM

#140
Posted 18 November 2011 - 02:21 PM

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=207840
Hope it goes as well as yours! Will be chuffed to bits if it does

#141
Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:36 PM
Watching it now bud good luckJust to let you guys know, the project you inspired has started this morning with the arrival of the engine
http://www.theminifo...howtopic=207840
Hope it goes as well as yours! Will be chuffed to bits if it does
#142
Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:58 PM
So, check the following:
Oil in (20w50) to correct level.
Coolant in and radiator full.
Plug leads in dizzy cap set in order anti-clockwise 1-3-4-2.
Coil wiring correct
Battery fully charged
No loose tools in engine compartment
Fan belt correctly tensioned and fan able to rotate without hitting shroud
Fuel pipes connected
Throttle cable tensioned correctly and working to give full throttle and return spring working
Choke cable connected and giving full choke, then closing fully
Thin oil in carb dashpot.
Clutch appears to be working correctly
You are now ready for the next step - firing it up.
Take the plugs out and connect the battery to another battery which is also fully charged. I usually connect to another car with jump leads and start the engine on the other car.
Do NOT depress the clutch (most important!) and crank the engine over until you know that you have oil pressure. If you have a gauge crank until you have at least 40 lb/sq.in. If not, crank for at least 10 seconds after the oil warning light goes out.
Replace the plug leads in the correct order.
Pull out the choke.
Turn the key until it fires (Hooray!) and keep the revs between 2000 and 2500 rpm for about 3 minutes. If you have an assistant present get them to monitor the engine bay and underneath the car for any oil or water leaks. Some smoke off the engine & out of the exhaust pipe is quite normal. Push the choke in as soon as possible.
After about 3 minutes switch off and check/top up the oil to the 'max' mark on the dipstick. Make any small adjustments necessary at this time.
If you have fitted a new camshaft start and run the car for about 20 minutes at 2000 to 2250 rpm, keeping an eye on all the vital things like engine temp and oil pressure. If cam is not new run for 10+ minutes or until fully warm.
After 20 minutes or 10 if cam is not new, allow the engine to fall back to tickover and set the tickover to 800 rpm. Swing the distributor with the engine at tickover until it gives the best revs, then back it off about 3 or 4 degrees. Check the mixture at these revs by slightly lifting the piston in the carb. If the engine slows slightly then speeds back up to almost tickover revs the mixture is correct. If it slows and stays slow or stalls it is too weak, If it speeds up it is too rich.
When this is done allow it to tickover for another 10 minutes then check the clutch and that you can select all gears.
If the clutch position is correct you can switch off and set the overthrow stops. To do this; with the overthrow nuts wound well out push the clutch down and hold it down. Get your assistant to wind in the inner nut until it just touches the clutch cover. Release the clutch pedal. Screw the outer (lock) nut in until it touches the inner net and without the inner nut moving at all, lock it with the outer nut.
Re-fit the servo and bleed the brakes if this has not already been done.
Let the engine cool and check the oil, water levels and top up as necessary.
Take out and enjoy, remembering to run the engine in at not more than 3500 to 4000 rpm for the first 250 to 300 miles. Re-torque the head and re-set the valve clearances at this mileage. Change the oil & filter at about 500 miles. Gradually increase the revs you use until you are able to use max revs at 1000 miles.
It's gonna be great. Change oil & filter after a further 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles maximum.
Best oil is Valvoline Racing 20w50, Castrol Classic 20w50 or other similar top brand of 20w50.
Good luck with the start up. Let us all know when it's running nicely.
#143
Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:59 AM

so all systems go again, another leap for me, should get tappets set today and all the other bit's on, she is starting to look good

#144
Posted 19 November 2011 - 02:18 PM
my old one was marked engine side but the new one ain't
#145
Posted 19 November 2011 - 05:03 PM
#146
Posted 19 November 2011 - 05:08 PM
Yeah but yeah but either way the blades point the same wayAs the fan rotates clockwise, the blades need to 'throw' the cooling air into the radiator, so the pitch of the blade increases across the blade towards the trailing edge of the blade. I hope this makes sense. I know what I'm trying to say, just don't know if I'm saying it right.

#147
Posted 19 November 2011 - 05:31 PM
Got it yippie can do it now thanks anyway peter i suppose you work it by arodynamics


#148
Posted 20 November 2011 - 11:28 AM

#149
Posted 20 November 2011 - 11:56 AM
A brick with a little flairArodynumic....Aerodysaywhatnow? Not a word usually assossiated with the mini..Unless the word brick is also involved..

#150
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:38 PM
forgot to connect the speedo

so should get drive shafts in tomorrow, electric ful pump and chrome govener is now ordered so it's another waiting game
photo's tomorrow
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