Hi, I have just sent my crank off to be re ground and I'm installing new piston rings ,thrust washers and crank shells, big end bearings and all new gaskets , I have been advised to honecthe cylinders before assembly .is it possible to do this yourself or is it best left to an expert. Any advice?
Honing, How To Do It?
Started by
jmwood900
, Oct 28 2011 04:07 PM
13 replies to this topic
#2
R1minimagic
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 04:13 PM
Best to leave it to the experts and get it done properly!
#3
dklawson
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 04:31 PM
Agreed.
While you could buy some equipment to do this yourself, there is a preferred "crosshatch" pattern left in the bores when honing is done properly. A machine shop will be able to do this quickly and correctly for you and they already own the tools.
While you could buy some equipment to do this yourself, there is a preferred "crosshatch" pattern left in the bores when honing is done properly. A machine shop will be able to do this quickly and correctly for you and they already own the tools.
#4
Wil_h
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 04:36 PM
I just did my own yesterday. I borrowed a good quality honing tool and then read a few online guides and watched a few youtube vids and off I went. The results looked acceptable to me, not as good as when I have had it done by a machine by someone else. But the idea is that the surface is rough to allow the piston rings to run in and I achieved that.
I started the car this morning and all was fine, only time will tell if they bed in properly. But I'm a believer in the 'hard run-in' process, so I'm confident that all will be well.
I started the car this morning and all was fine, only time will tell if they bed in properly. But I'm a believer in the 'hard run-in' process, so I'm confident that all will be well.
#5
Cooperman
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 05:06 PM
There is a difference between proper 'honing' and 'glaze-busting'. Honing is done to make the bores parallel and to complete or repair the cylinder machining within tolerances. Glaze-busting is to remove any glazing to the bores caused by ring action in use. If the bores are parallel and not excessively worn, a 'glaze-bust' with a 3-legged tool will often be fine. For more worn bores a honing can be needed.
#6
Wil_h
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 05:19 PM
I'd never thought of it like that, but makes perfect sense.
In this case then, assuming that the bores are in decent condition, the three-legged 'hone' should be suitable. Sorted.
In this case then, assuming that the bores are in decent condition, the three-legged 'hone' should be suitable. Sorted.
#7
Cooperman
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Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 05:31 PM
I'd never thought of it like that, but makes perfect sense.
In this case then, assuming that the bores are in decent condition, the three-legged 'hone' should be suitable. Sorted.
Yes, I just used one on an MPI where the bores were OK but a bit glazed. New rings and not a trace of smoke + excellent compressions.
#8
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:14 PM
I've been looking at tools for this and quite like the look of this..
http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_600wt_1270
Obviously the one above isn't suitable for a mini and other sizes are available.
It looks easier to use than the 3 legged type as well.
http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_600wt_1270
Obviously the one above isn't suitable for a mini and other sizes are available.
It looks easier to use than the 3 legged type as well.
#9
dklawson
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:49 PM
a.k.a. "Ball Hone" or "Dingleberry Hone"
#10
Shifty
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:50 PM
Are they any good Dk?
#11
dklawson
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:58 PM
For glaze breaking they will be OK. I think you'll find a lot of web sites where people have used the larger size on engine bores. Where I have seen them used more often is on brake cylinders where there is not a small enough 3-legged hone available. It is important to keep them moving up and down to prevent any possibility of creating ridges.
Here's a link for a bit more info on them:
http://www.flexhoneb...e-used-for.html
and marketing stuff in the link below:
http://www.ien.com/a...yle-hone/113043
Here's a link for a bit more info on them:
http://www.flexhoneb...e-used-for.html
and marketing stuff in the link below:
http://www.ien.com/a...yle-hone/113043
#12
R1minimagic
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:58 PM
The main reason for honing is to allow an oil film to sit on the cylinder wall so you get the correct lubrication for the pistons, as soon as the honing marks have gone the oil consumption will go through the roof. There are also different angles of honing marks so advisable to find out what the correct/preferred pattern is for a Mini.
Edited by R1minimagic, 28 October 2011 - 06:58 PM.
#13
jmwood900
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 07:35 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to go to a machine shop and have it done by the experts I think , after all I'm spending a few quid on renewing the internals so a few more won't be missed. One more question about distributors. I currently have the old points and condenser set , but because the new engine will be 1330 stage 3 head duplex timing chain and Kent 286 cam should I be looking fir a more advanced distributor to get the best out of the engine,
#14
Cooperman
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Posted 28 October 2011 - 08:02 PM
If running a 286 you do really need the engine fully balanced with a centre main bearing strap.That's because the 286 has peak power at 6400 rpm and, therefore, to keep it 'on the cam' you'll need to rev to around 6800 rpm safely. If you can't or don't want to rev that high, then the 286 is the wrong cam for your application.
An unbalanced engine will really only be happy up to about 6000 rpm, so an MG Metro, 266 or similar cam is much better.
The cam should match your driving style, not the other way around, if that makes sense.
An unbalanced engine will really only be happy up to about 6000 rpm, so an MG Metro, 266 or similar cam is much better.
The cam should match your driving style, not the other way around, if that makes sense.
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