Last bit of rot was the Bonnet hinge/scuttle area. Seeing as this is an area most 2CV owners will need to fix at some point, I took detailed pics, hopefully will be of use to someone.
Started off with this
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The first step was to drill out the spot welds on the lower lip
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And remove the tabs at the ends, first by drilling out the spot welds
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And then grinding the tab away, as it's brazed.
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I bought the basic hinge repair section from ECAS,
http://www.ecas2cvpa...ails-p-840.htmlAt £30 it's pretty good I reckon, much thicker gauge metal then standard Citroen and Galvanised, so it'll last for a few years.
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I started by sitting it on the scuttle with the old hinge removed to mark the length
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At this point I noticed the repair panel was higher than I wanted, so I cut it down silghtly to about 5mm down from the curve of the flap aperture
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I then cut out the old panel, leaving a section at the top to be cut out later, this is so the repair panel can sit in the correct position before accurately marking the top for cutting.
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I was glad to find out the inner scuttle was very sound. However the lip at the top of the bulkhead wasn't, so I chopped that bit out, and let in new metal.
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I then lay the repair panel in place, marked, and cut the remaining metal out.
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I also brushed thick hammerite inside the scuttle to keep it good for a while, and applied zinc primer to the underside of the new panel.
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I then clamped the panel in place for welding. At this point I noticed that the curve of the area of above the hinge was too round, so I flattened it a bit in my folder. I could have fitted it as was, but it would have needed a bit more filler than I would have liked. I ground the galvanised coating off the edges of the new panel, as the fumes are bad for your elf, and it doesn't weld too well.
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I started welding the panel in with tacks at intervals to keep the panel cool and avoid warpage, plug welding the bottom lip.
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Carried on until it was welded solidly around.
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And dressed with a flap wheel and 80 grit on the sander.
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Followed by a skim of filler on any high or low sections, then a quick coat of primer to protect it from the elephants.
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I also managed to get the drip rail completed on one side, I bought these sections from ECAS,
http://www.ecas2cvpa...long-p-367.html they were much shorter than I expected, so I used them both on the one side.
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Seeing as the rot was quite high up, I had to bend one of the sections, I think ECAS/SPOG assume that people will only be replacing the straight bit..
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Before
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And after
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I shall order more for the other side, and once the N/S rail is done, that's all the welding on the body tub COMPLETE. Excitement all round.