73 replies to this topic

[Shifty]

As Neil has said, grind, or even better skim the hinge in a mill. I've done this a few times now. Doesn't take much to shift it forward. On the hinge there is a stepped bit in the casting, grind this off and job done.

[nomininolife]

Thanks for the replies guy's. No work has been done to this side of the car, with no major work done to the other side. I just dont remember it catching before I took it apart. I will try removing material from the hinge as the 'A' panel lines up really well, so I dont think its hinge panel related.

[1987minimayfair]

Thanks for showing how to do this

Hallam

[sonikk4]

No problem.

[lrostoke]

I'm interested in the gap between A panel and door, just fitted new front end and rear quarter...gaps aren't bad..

Gap between A panel and Door is wider than you've achieved but looking at it if it was any thinner it looks like the door would catch the A panel when you open it, barely misses now ???

[sonikk4]

No problem with the door touching the A panel. Its down to how you set the door up really. The door is very slightly under proud and clears nicely. Still a tight gap though. If the door was to proud then there would be some fouling.

[lrostoke]

that is probably where Im getting the difference, I've set mine so that the door is flush with the A panel .

Think may have to slot the hinge holes slightly to set it back

cheers, good guide :)

It is amazing the difference different parts make, my original doors I don't like the gap by the Quarter panel, so fitted a spare set off a different car, 100% better fit :)

[MinBinPat]

Great thread with some fantastic advise, door gaps on 'normal' minis are orrible (seen through 21st century eyes). Makes the difference between an ok job and a great one. Well done.

[Domeo_Jones]

wow! what a good idea using the gas welding rods as a secret filler!! my welding teacher didnt teach me that! one quick question tho, may sound odd but when you were doing te bonnet the whole car looked like it had been sprayed with a dull red colour? what was that? something to stop the rust? cheers!!

i feel like a mini knowledge sponge!

[sonikk4]

wow! what a good idea using the gas welding rods as a secret filler!! my welding teacher didnt teach me that! one quick question tho, may sound odd but when you were doing te bonnet the whole car looked like it had been sprayed with a dull red colour? what was that? something to stop the rust? cheers!!

i feel like a mini knowledge sponge!

Its just bog stock red primer from Halfrauds, i used this just as a rpotective coat while it was in the garage. It did get removed when it went to the paint shop.

[Domeo_Jones]

okay red primer! great was that in a can or brush? and it needs to be removed before the painting! sweet as!! just trying to soak up all this priceles info! hope to get my little beaty on the go very soon! bit scared of cuting the panels off and then finding loads of rust and not have nothing to weld the panels too! im such a newbie!! lol

[sonikk4]

It was cheap spray primer from Halfords. I had to remove all of it due to paint reaction. if the car is being kept inside then any bare metal areas need to be etch primed first. You can buy this from Halfords. Its made by Upol and is very good. Not cheap but you only need to dust it over the metal before using a filler primer then either another coat of primer then top coat.

If you are welding panels then use Upol zinc rich weld through primer between the mating areas.

[Domeo_Jones]

etch primer! that does look expensive? why do you need to etch the panel? also can you weld thru this etch stuf??

[sonikk4]

Sorry hadn't looked at this for a while. You cannot weld through etch primer. You can weld through Upol Zinc rich primer. The etch acts as a key for your paint ie something for it to grip to. You really need to use this on bare metal after you have finished welding.

[dean]

That u-pol stuff is good. Plus most body shops use it so may not react with other coats.