145 replies to this topic

[toplessmini]

Is this thread relevant to the MPI?

[icklemini]

Is this thread relevant to the MPI?

Not really... though some elements are similar... the title of the thread says it all really :s

[J666ERA]

Just read all of this, fantastic work.

I have a Japanese 2000 which is a MPI block with SPI injection, so a little different again. I am a complete mini nut and used to be in the trade importing japanese cars so have some gear still. You will probably have seen my mini at some of the shows or know me from other forums, Black Japanese ERA J666ERA.

The 2000 M-SPI wont start from cold, injector seems to be firing when cranking over smells fuelly, a squirt of petrol down the throttle body and floor accelerator and it bursts into life, runs fine till it gets warm then all over the place.

I have a Snap on MT2500 that I used to use for late japs and an old rover cart I got of ebay with lead and magically it talked to it so I was well impressed, I thought I would go in OBDC but that just wouldnt do anything on a Jap M-SPI, the old three pin in the engine bay and talked to it as a 95SPI which was the last year of the old cart I had for Rovers did.

Faults were air temperature which it was defaulting, and **** coolant temperature which it is defaulting to 59 degrees **** cleared codes a few times and air temperature one goes away, still won't start, I can with the MT2500 test the injector, purge valve stepper relay and pump and all seem ok, stepper doesnt seem to increment on the increase decrease settings but dont know if they work as never saw or did anything like this on a SPI before. Ok, came to it in its I wont start mode, and fired the injector via the MT2500 and it squirts lots of fuel so that rules out low fuel pressure blocked filter etc etc, if the coolant sensor is completely shot would non starting be the symptom, will the TPC not be powered if the coolant temp is being defaulted to 59? I assume the rough running when warm is due to the actual temperature again now being higher than 59.

Thoughts??

[mymini1]

hey I am new to the forum and have just read these spi articals and would like to thank sprocket for his clear and informative details about spi i understand it so much more now. i have now changed my filter to a KN type and your diagrams/photoes were a real help.

Edited by mymini1, 03 April 2012 - 10:31 PM.

[icklemini]

Just read all of this, fantastic work.

I have a Japanese 2000 which is a MPI block with SPI injection, so a little different again. I am a complete mini nut and used to be in the trade importing japanese cars so have some gear still. You will probably have seen my mini at some of the shows or know me from other forums, Black Japanese ERA J666ERA.

The 2000 M-SPI wont start from cold, injector seems to be firing when cranking over smells fuelly, a squirt of petrol down the throttle body and floor accelerator and it bursts into life, runs fine till it gets warm then all over the place.

I have a Snap on MT2500 that I used to use for late japs and an old rover cart I got of ebay with lead and magically it talked to it so I was well impressed, I thought I would go in OBDC but that just wouldnt do anything on a Jap M-SPI, the old three pin in the engine bay and talked to it as a 95SPI which was the last year of the old cart I had for Rovers did.

Faults were air temperature which it was defaulting, and **** coolant temperature which it is defaulting to 59 degrees **** cleared codes a few times and air temperature one goes away, still won't start, I can with the MT2500 test the injector, purge valve stepper relay and pump and all seem ok, stepper doesnt seem to increment on the increase decrease settings but dont know if they work as never saw or did anything like this on a SPI before. Ok, came to it in its I wont start mode, and fired the injector via the MT2500 and it squirts lots of fuel so that rules out low fuel pressure blocked filter etc etc, if the coolant sensor is completely shot would non starting be the symptom, will the TPC not be powered if the coolant temp is being defaulted to 59? I assume the rough running when warm is due to the actual temperature again now being higher than 59.

Thoughts??

if the coolant temp sensor is open circuit (disconnected / break in wire / etc) then MEMS defaults to 59degs.

Yes if the engine is cold, then its not going to start very easily if the engine management thinks its at 59degs...

So, do check wiring and connections to the coolant sender - obviously check the sender itself to see if that is at fault...

[melle]

Hey hey, quick intro, new to the forum but have been riding my 1994 SPI all over europe, even spent a winter season with me in mayrhofen, austria. The little thing never let me down until now, she just wont start, she cranks over for like a minute, then starts to smell like gas, plugs do fire but she just won start. When i push start her she starts up straight away. What o what am i missing. Great thread though, so much info. Cheers melle

[melle]

FIXED, she's running again. Problem was a burned connection in the relaymodule. While having the module open i asked somebody to turn the ignition step by step. All the relays went on except the PTC one. Now guess which connection activates the PTC relay, exactly the burned one, wire color blue/ brown if i remember right. I used another piece of wire to bypass the burned connection and the relay went in and my little mini started straigh away. Super happy again.
Cheers

[gand]

Hello sprocket. i too am having problems with my spi. but you certainly have given me plentyto think over many thanks..

[J666ERA]

Thanks Dave, yes a coolant sensor sorted it instantly...

[Equinox_Monty]

Another success story due to Sprockets excellent guide!
Our Equinox was having real trouble accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear (really chuggy - is that a real word?)
Checked the capillary to the ECU and it was "less than a perfect fit (it had distorted) so I used some silicone fish tank tubing as an insert to make the seal perfect and..

The car runs like a dream, more power in all gears. No more hestation.

Thanks Sprocket

[Harley]

Hi guys, I'm having an intermittent problem with my 1999 SPI car and wondering if anyone could suggest what to look for?
Long story short, on days over 35 degrees the car will start and instantly rev out to 3000 rpm.
On colder days (under 20) the car is fine. Occasionly when driving around on a 25-30 degree day the car will rev out to 3000 by itself, but settle again after a few seconds.
On a 30-35 degree day it will do its trick more often, and if the AC is on it makes the problem worse.

Problem is definitely electrical, you can see (and feel) the stepper motor doing this, so I'd think it's not a vacuum leak.

I'm going to try and get a new air temp sensor for it. I've tried the TPS and its not that, and I don't think it would be coolant temp as it does it from cold on a hot day.

Anyone seen this before?
Thanks.

[jc_turbo]

I have a similar problem to Harley. Last weekend I was running my car to let it warm up as I have been working on the suspension and have not been able to go out and drive it.

After a while it had warmed then suddenly the engine revs rose from the good steady idle it had been doing to about 3000rpm. Now whenever I start the car it revs up to about 3000rpm and slightly increases then stays there.

I think the temperature gauge was not showing anything when the engine was hot and it started doing this. Could a faulty temperature sensor cause this sort of high rev idle? Also I recently did an oil change and the car started smoking more, probably valve stem seals, could the oil have clogged up the o2 sensor?

I have put a short video on youtube



Thanks for any help

[jc_turbo]

Quick update, I just had the weather and time to work on my mini. I guessed the problem would be the temperature sensor or vacuum hoses. I tried but couldn't get the leverage to push the new vacuum hoses onto the manifold with the wires and sound proofing on the fire wall in the way so decided to change the temperature sensor and hoses at the same time.

I took off the manifold and change the temp sensor, this probably wasn't the problem as the resistance of both the new and old sensor were the same. I changed the hoses and fuel trap then put it all back together. Started it up and it ran better than before the problem with the revs really started.

The problem was either a hole or blockage in the vacuum hose or the connector on one of the many sensors had a bad connection. I did also find the end of the crank case breather hose had a small split in it so air might have been getting in there.

While I had it apart I use my multimeter to test the other sensors functioned.

Could anyone tell me how you are supposed to change the hoses without taking of the manifold and using a small hammer, my replacement hoses were from mini spares and seemed very tight?

This actually turned out to be quite a long update and a question.

[jpandflissy]

Wonderful thread thank you.
I wondered what might cause a lack of power? My little spi has no power over 4k and isnt exactly rapid below this mark. Thanks so much in advance. JP

[Harley]

An update for me:
I replaced the air inlet sensor with a new one and the car has never reved as high as 3000rpm on its own since.
After a long run down the freeway though the car does seem to idle at 1300 rpm though.
I've ordered a new water temp sensor and will probably replace the exhaust sensor too.
My alternator has also died, so a new one there too. Expensive month!

New problem today - car wont idle. It just hunts. Seems like I have another vacuum leak / blockage.