Having Problems With Spi Single Point Injection
#76
Posted 16 September 2009 - 09:00 AM
Thanks and BR
Stathis
#77
Posted 16 September 2009 - 10:10 AM
#78
Posted 22 September 2009 - 10:46 AM
my spi main relay box(black box on top of brake servo) has blown a relay inside (just did after a short run ) (the coil,purge valve solenoid ,stepper motor relay .... ) and the car wont start only turn and the fuel\pump wont come on and no spark so i opened the box up and pressed the relay to do a circuit and it work and started .until i jammed it on with a small cable tie and went down the village and now blown the coil somehow (overheated the coil with the relay i think ) so what could have caused the relay to go in the first place , or are they 1 of them things that goes after some years , and is there a fuse to control the relay box cant find a blown fuse anywhere . i think its been there since factory (1995)
has any one had this experience b4
ive got a realy and coil in the post so i can check if theres any thing else at fault blowing the relay
#79
Posted 07 November 2009 - 08:51 PM
#80
Posted 29 November 2009 - 09:59 PM
I re registered on here today, as I moved house since last using the forum some years ago. I had been referred here by another member who bought one of my complete, brand new spi injection manifolds. I can't remember his name, but if still a member he may remember me.
If any of you are truly stuck, if not available anywhere else, I still have some of these left. Bought for a project pictured. 2004_04081203050010.JPG 746.66K 46 downloads mini_injection_manifold_new.JPG 713.92K 109 downloadsfold_new.JPG] mini_spi_twin_injector_setup.JPG 704.31K 135 downloads They are not and never will be cheap, but at least you know some exist. These are complete Cooper Spi manifolds from the factory, and in component form were well over a grand.
As this is a thread for Injection running issues, and few parts available now, i'm letting you know.
#81
Posted 29 November 2009 - 10:06 PM
Is that 2 SPi injection systems on a single manifold?? What kind of ECU do you use to run this set-up and what kind of power output are you looking at??
#82
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:37 PM
Hi All,
I re registered on here today, as I moved house since last using the forum some years ago. I had been referred here by another member who bought one of my complete, brand new spi injection manifolds. I can't remember his name, but if still a member he may remember me.
That will be me But I have moved on a little since but not turned my back on the SPi, I still have the 100bhp 1400 sat on the garage floor and an M reg Cooper to rebuild to put the thing in, few engine upgrades still to be done, so there has to me a few more hp left in the old SPi yet
#83
Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:41 PM
is there a way to get all the pictures back in this thread - I just see crosses ;-(
I am working on it
#84
Posted 11 January 2010 - 07:05 PM
#85
Posted 01 February 2010 - 05:51 PM
Is there any way of overriding the alarm and immobiliser?I thought that so i put another battery on it and nothing changed. Should a mini of this age have a key fob?If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. This is not the only thing to stop the engine firing, but humour me and press it anyway.
If the engine fails to turn over then the imobiliser/ alarm may still be on. The alarm system sends a coded signal to the ECU telling it when the alarm is on or not and whether the engine is available to start or not. The alarm ECU is mounted on the bulkhead inside the car
The alarm diagnostic connector is green and protected with a black rubber cap as shown. The alarm need special equipment to test and Your local Rover Dealer will have this.
Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you sure the battery is fully charged? There might be enough to light the lights and toot the horn, but the symptoms look like low battery to me - a problem I get quite often, there is a current drain somewhere...
Heya mate. Your problem is probably dead and gone but I will post up a picture of my immobiliser (Situated behind the felt crap dashboard in the centre). I will make a new topic about by passing the immobiliser. It looks a bit messy on my car. I can't be bothered writing a technical description but if you look at the diagrams and relate them to the pictures I take you may be able to make some sense over what is going on. If not just do exactly what I've done.
What I'm really here for (I've dug around, but a picture would be nice instead of a description as I can't find it anywhere) is where that bloody red vacuum tube goes. It comes out of my air filter and goes no where. My dad originally said it wouldn't make a difference if i didn't plug it in, which is true so far, but I've read this and seen all the issues you guys have had with it so want to play it on the safe side.
Sorry for asking such a frequent question, but i've tried and stumbled with my search. I will post pictures of my immobiliser bypass technique in a new topic.
#86
Posted 17 February 2010 - 10:08 PM
I've spent few hours browsing the injection forum on here, but haven't found an answer to my problem... or maybe I've just missed it
Anyway my 92 SPi has a little problem lately, here are the symptoms:
It starts normally from cold and everything is just fine, but after driving for about 3 minutes it starts misfiring and overfuelling, I have to tap the pedal to maintain the speed, and after another 3 minutes, when the engine warms up it's back to normal again.
If someone know a solution for this, or know where to find one, please let me know. This problem is really annoying
Thank You.
EDIT: It was a faulty PTC heater... got one from a metro 1.1 single injection and Mini feels fine now
Cheers, Dominik.
Edited by domino1985, 02 July 2010 - 04:26 PM.
#87
Posted 03 June 2010 - 10:13 PM
probably me but none of the links to the various capilary tubes are not working just getting a red x...All topics related to Problematic SPI sytems
A Thorough guide on what to look for and whats where, coming very shortly :cheese:
This will be a continiuosly updated topic so please feel free to add your results and fixes rather than discusion
http://www.theminifo...x...c=10173&hl=
http://www.theminifo...x...c=12722&hl=
http://www.theminifo...mp;hl=injection
http://www.theminifo...mp;hl=injection
http://www.theminifo...mp;hl=injection
http://www.theminifo...t=0#entry189478
http://www.theminifo...mp;hl=injection
First things to look for when your SPI engine is not running quite right are air leaks. These leaks are usualy the ends of the little black, red and yellow capilary lines, they tend to split as shown below and play havoc with the vacuum reading of the ECU. They should be a very tight fit and nothing less than excellent condition.
The main one that seems to cause a problem is the one on the end of the short capilary identified with white, from the back of the inlet manifold to the fuel trap. Located on this port on the back of the inlet manifold, again identified with white.
The fuel trap looks like this, has one short black port and long green port.
While on the subject of capilary tubes and fuel traps, there is a known problem of fuel causing blockage in these tubes, mainly the one identified with green, attached to the long green port of the fuel trap and the ECU at the other end. The symptoms of this are, hesitation when accelerating usualy acompanied with a backfire in the inlet manifold and the car usualy bucks violently. The only fix for this is to remove the tubes along with the fuel trap and blow through, remove the ECU and insert some cotton wool into the MAP ( Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor port and place the whole thing on a warm radiator over night. This is what is suggested in in a Rover service bulletin. Also ensure the capilary ends are in nothing less than excelent condition as above. The MAP sensor port as shown.
Other locations of air leaks are the breather system hoses and the evaperative emissions control system. Check all rubber hoses are in good condition, no cracks or splits. The main breather hoses to check are the ones supplying the purge valve and the charcoal canister. They usualy leak at the purge valve shown here.
#88
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:40 PM
Blasted thing hasn't made it to a single show this year due to us being busy (1) and it breaking down (3)
#89
Posted 12 June 2010 - 08:22 AM
#90
Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:32 AM
i went to my local car part shop yesterday and they do not sell vacuum rubber elbows or straights have tried a search on e-bay but all i get is the very pricey ones from minispares,!!!,so can anyone post any links to where i can purchase these items at a reasonable price,not checked our spi vacuum rubber fittings yet so might not need any,???,thanks...It's worth pointing out that I was able to get the better rubber elbows from my local motor store for 5p each, so I wouldn't recommend getting them from minispares at their prices!
also what size are the pipes on my spi mini..
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