145 replies to this topic

[BRGRover92]

QUOTE FROM SPROCKET...
While on the subject of capilary tubes and fuel traps, there is a known problem of fuel causing blockage in these tubes, mainly the one identified with green, attached to the long green port of the fuel trap and the ECU at the other end. The symptoms of this are, hesitation when accelerating usualy acompanied with a backfire in the inlet manifold and the car usualy bucks violently. The only fix for this is to remove the tubes along with the fuel trap and blow through, remove the ECU and insert some cotton wool into the MAP ( Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor port and place the whole thing on a warm radiator over night. This is what is suggested in in a Rover service bulletin. Also ensure the capilary ends are in nothing less than excelent condition as above. The MAP sensor port as shown.


**Help! I have removed my ECU to try and clear the MAP sensor port but the port/hole is very small (1 to 1.5mm diametre). How am I supposed to get cotton up there?**

Edited by BRGRover92, 30 March 2008 - 12:38 AM.

[BoyracerAU]

I got a short piece of wool from my mum's knitting basket.

If you twist it the same way it's wound, it doesn't unravel and gets a bit of rigidity.

Keep twisting as you put a bit of inward force on it. It'll go in.

[BRGRover92]

I got a short piece of wool from my mum's knitting basket.

If you twist it the same way it's wound, it doesn't unravel and gets a bit of rigidity.

Keep twisting as you put a bit of inward force on it. It'll go in.

Did ya find any fuel or anything in there or was it clean?

Edited by BRGRover92, 30 March 2008 - 10:19 AM.

[BoyracerAU]

Mine was clean.

[cooperised]

Hi there,

Just like to say thanks to Sprocket for this topic.

I was getting a misfire in my SPI Sprite when she was cold and I put my foot down. So when I had the ECU out for some welding, I stuck a bit of twisted tissue into the MAP sensor port and bunged it on the radiator; sure enough, some fuelly C**p came dripping out. As part of a 'belt-and-braces' approach I also changed the vacuum capillaries joining the ECU to the fuel trap, and the fuel trap to the manifold, and I changed the fuel trap too. Total cost of a few quid and it saved messing about testing one thing at a time.

Changing the pipe that joins to the back of the manifold is a right especially getting the new, tight union on with your fingertips, totally blind - but the problem's fixed, so thank you!

Andy (cooperised)

[Sealy1991]

Great post!

[tomhbromley]

If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. This is not the only thing to stop the engine firing, but humour me and press it anyway.

If the engine fails to turn over then the imobiliser/ alarm may still be on. The alarm system sends a coded signal to the ECU telling it when the alarm is on or not and whether the engine is available to start or not. The alarm ECU is mounted on the bulkhead inside the car

The alarm diagnostic connector is green and protected with a black rubber cap as shown. The alarm need special equipment to test and Your local Rover Dealer will have this.

Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Blatherskite]

If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. This is not the only thing to stop the engine firing, but humour me and press it anyway.

If the engine fails to turn over then the imobiliser/ alarm may still be on. The alarm system sends a coded signal to the ECU telling it when the alarm is on or not and whether the engine is available to start or not. The alarm ECU is mounted on the bulkhead inside the car

The alarm diagnostic connector is green and protected with a black rubber cap as shown. The alarm need special equipment to test and Your local Rover Dealer will have this.

Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? There might be enough to light the lights and toot the horn, but the symptoms look like low battery to me - a problem I get quite often, there is a current drain somewhere...

[tomhbromley]

If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. This is not the only thing to stop the engine firing, but humour me and press it anyway.

If the engine fails to turn over then the imobiliser/ alarm may still be on. The alarm system sends a coded signal to the ECU telling it when the alarm is on or not and whether the engine is available to start or not. The alarm ECU is mounted on the bulkhead inside the car

The alarm diagnostic connector is green and protected with a black rubber cap as shown. The alarm need special equipment to test and Your local Rover Dealer will have this.

Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought that so i put another battery on it and nothing changed. Should a mini of this age have a key fob?

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? There might be enough to light the lights and toot the horn, but the symptoms look like low battery to me - a problem I get quite often, there is a current drain somewhere...

[tomhbromley]

If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. This is not the only thing to stop the engine firing, but humour me and press it anyway.

If the engine fails to turn over then the imobiliser/ alarm may still be on. The alarm system sends a coded signal to the ECU telling it when the alarm is on or not and whether the engine is available to start or not. The alarm ECU is mounted on the bulkhead inside the car

The alarm diagnostic connector is green and protected with a black rubber cap as shown. The alarm need special equipment to test and Your local Rover Dealer will have this.

Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought that so i put another battery on it and nothing changed. Should a mini of this age have a key fob?

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? There might be enough to light the lights and toot the horn, but the symptoms look like low battery to me - a problem I get quite often, there is a current drain somewhere...

Is there any way of overriding the alarm and immobiliser?

[Blatherskite]

Hi there, I know this thread was put on along time ago but i think youve hit the nail on the head with my mini's problem. Ive got a 92 rover mini cooper spi that wont start at all. When you turn the key nothing happens except a clicking noise in the engine relay box. There is no ignition light on the dash either but the orange oil pressure light is on and all the lights ,heater,horn works. Im running out of ideas. Could it be the immobiliser and if so where is it.
Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/quote]
I thought that so i put another battery on it and nothing changed. Should a mini of this age have a key fob?

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? There might be enough to light the lights and toot the horn, but the symptoms look like low battery to me - a problem I get quite often, there is a current drain somewhere...
[/quote]
[/quote]
Is there any way of overriding the alarm and immobiliser?
[/quote]
Probably, but don't know myself. There is another thread in the Mini Forum where some wonderful guy has posted a copy of the workshop manual MPi/SPi, you could hunt through that I guess. As I recall when we forgot to unset the alarm, the motor jjust doesn't turn at all. As I also found when trying to bump-start the car, the ignition is disabled as well, so it won't fire no matter how much you push up & down the road.

[NudgerSS]

I too had this problem despite charging the battery up. A new battery sorted it as despite there being plenty of voltage in the old battery there was sod all Amps. Fired up straight away once the new battery was on.

Cheers - John

[Indy69]

Just read this as my Mini would not start at work this morning after a night shift and went straight to the problem thanks to Sprocket. It was the vacuum pipe between the MAP and the ECU it had a hole in it. Changed this and she started first time.
Only had her two days and it my first Mini so not very up on them.

[subzero3571]

Hi a few weeks ago my 97 spi mini decided not too start one morning, i finally got it going but as i got half way down the road the revs dropped strate away and it cut out i got it going again but it did the same again.
I took to my nearest garage for repair , they said it was the ecu which needed repairing but they couldnt get there diagnostic equiptment to talk to it so they didnt know what too suggest
please can someone help !!!

[Blatherskite]

Hi a few weeks ago my 97 spi mini decided not too start one morning, i finally got it going but as i got half way down the road the revs dropped strate away and it cut out i got it going again but it did the same again.
I took to my nearest garage for repair , they said it was the ecu which needed repairing but they couldnt get there diagnostic equiptment to talk to it so they didnt know what too suggest
please can someone help !!!

I believe the ECU is pretty reliable, most likely one of the sensors is at fault. Typical garage to want to replace the most expensive bit!

Did you have any other symptoms before it all went quiet? Smoke, stuttering, loss of power, etc? Also, how was it when you tried to restart?