Edited by AndyMiniMad., 14 October 2011 - 03:08 PM.

Straight Cut Drop Gears
#16
Posted 14 October 2011 - 03:07 PM
#17
Posted 14 October 2011 - 03:13 PM
I always used SC CR gears with helical transfer gears and thought them quite acceptable. Then I damaged the transfer gears on a rally and decided to fit the SC transfers. I really wish I hadn't as they really are noisy. It's OK when wearing crash helmets and I suppose as the SC transfer gears are meant to be used in competition where helmets are used, but on the road sections of rallies or just road driving they are very tiring and unpleasant for the ears. I don't think SC transfer gears are really necessary until the max power exceeds about 120 bhp and that's a race-spec engine.
Now, a SC CR gear set is a different matter and does make the car super to drive if it's modified to around 90+bhp, although 1st gear is then rather high and a lower final drive ratio is usually considered necessary in order to pull away cleanly without too much clutch slipping. The lower final drive means more revs for a given cruising speed.
Many thanks chaps! To the OP, sorry about the topic heist!That's a better combination as straight cut gears only make a noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, unless of course you have splahed out on a straight cut diff.
#18
Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:24 AM
#19
Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:30 AM
#20
Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:51 AM
#21
Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:57 AM
You can change the transfer gears with the engine in the car, but it must be one of the most difficult of jobs, and does require some special tools. Personally I would take the engine out as it will give you the opportunity to remove the box from the engine, check that through too, get the shimming of the idler gear correct etc etc...
If you want the whine then it's the drop gears which provide this and not so much the transmission.
Also for the o/p, the series of engine is irrespective of what's attached to the bottom, it's the transfer gears and transfer case which determine what sort of gearbox you need not the engine.
What do you mean by the o/p?
The engine and gearbox is out of the car, and gearbox is seperated for from the block. Final drive options I have are a 3.2, 3.1 or a 2.7, I am not sure which one to use? The car is running on 10's and isits the standard metro turbo block and gearbox I am using.
Any help on this is appreciated
Thanks
Bobby
#22
Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:10 AM
Also for the o/p, the series of engine is irrespective of what's attached to the bottom, it's the transfer gears and transfer case which determine what sort of gearbox you need not the engine.
What do you mean by the o/p?
O/P = original poster, person who started the thread
#23
Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:20 AM
#24
Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:49 AM
I just don't think they're worth the noise.. I'd much rather listen to the exhaust
#25
Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:52 AM
#26
Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:53 AM
#27
Posted 31 December 2012 - 12:00 PM
#28
Posted 31 December 2012 - 12:52 PM
I had the 1:1 Tran-X ones along with their SCCR gearset and X-pin diff. It really wasn't that noisy but I didn't do any long journeys in it.
#29
Posted 31 December 2012 - 08:05 PM
I love the noise
You won't when you inevitably develop tinnitus and wake up in the middle of the night with what sounds like an old Boeing 707 going through your head. Yes, that's what I have and it's is so very unpleasant. If you fit SC drop gears make sure you are always wearing either a crash helmet, ear defenders or good quality ear plugs when you drive it. Mine are coming out to be replaced by helicals at next re-build. I just hate the b****y things.
#30
Posted 31 December 2012 - 09:55 PM
They're not necessary on normal engines really. Only for higher torque ones, ones that may need a quick change of drive ratio ay a track weekend or for people who like to go left-foot-braking for a laugh!
Buuuut, if you want to fit them, then go for it.
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