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Dash Pot Oil


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#31 danny19boy86

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:30 PM

good we want love on this forum.

#32 liirge

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:32 PM

No read closer!
I also stated that it should reach full lift AT THE SAME TIME AS W.O.T. - and it is this point that you need concentrate on

EDIT

I mentioned the not reaching full lift as a symptom of over dampening, not at one point did I claim you suggested that it was a beneficial state.

My argument is that your mantra of "Slower the piston moves the better" is just ludicrous and completely incorrect.

It has to be stated, and you failed to do so in your reply that that a slow rising piston is beneficial however it has to be in relation to where the throttle spindle is.

Edited by liirge, 03 October 2011 - 05:39 PM.


#33 danny19boy86

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:41 PM

no fisty cuffs

#34 firefox

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:44 PM

no fisty cuffs

Anyway bud you using 3in1 good choice pass it onto your buddy's

#35 liirge

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:54 PM

Again see what I mean, your either just looking for a argument or confusing yourself.
What do you exactly think, the thickest oil you can get away with means...................


Ambiguous mate bloody ambiguous

Well then you can see my comment as a clarification exercise for other readers - as this W.O.T and piston maximum lift is very important.

I'm not confusing myself I'm very coherent in what I'm thinking.

#36 lrostoke

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:59 PM

Just throwing an idea into the mix. Oil changes viscosity with temperature. At least thats my understanding.
So doesn't it make sense that different oils in the dashpot may be suited to different cars depending on time of year.

#37 liirge

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:18 PM

Just throwing an idea into the mix. Oil changes viscosity with temperature. At least thats my understanding.
So doesn't it make sense that different oils in the dashpot may be suited to different cars depending on time of year.

Like I say if you think about the operating temperature of oil, and what viscosity it sits at once it has properly warmed up - a few degrees here are there are going to make very little difference to the cold reading. That's where I sit on that one Lrostroke - an interesting idea though.

#38 Spitz

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:25 PM

It coomonly reaches -30 here in the winter. I think my dashpot oil will be a little thicker than it is in the summer....lol|
That piston isn't going to want to rise too quickly.....which is a good thing I guess...less air/richer start.

Our HS4 carbs actually came with heaters on them until import stopped in 1980

#39 mk=john

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:51 PM

the SU damper oil is exactly the same as 3 in 1!! Thats what is in the same bottle....;

#40 James_1

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:37 PM

Did someone mention different dampers? Seriously, there is no one oil. Just get experimenting and find one that works for you. The driver makes a difference too as it controls throttle response, what works for one driver in one engine isnt necessarily going to be right for another driver with very same engine.

Personally I find 20w50 is right for a road going engine and this weekend, after much playing around with 3-in-1, redex, brake fluid, you name it, we found that 20w50 was also the best solution for a full race spec Riley 1.5...

#41 jaydee

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:04 PM

How to make fast drop dampers like the one fitted on the Hif44 is something that i've never read about on TMF..
And to be pedantic the SU is meant to use straight SAE 20 oil and not multigrade oils..

In the real world, i've noticed that 3 in 1 works better with twins and thicker engine oil with single carb, but that could be related to my engine spec and how i tune my carbs.

#42 liirge

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:41 PM



Again see what I mean, your either just looking for a argument or confusing yourself.
What do you exactly think, the thickest oil you can get away with means...................


Ambiguous mate bloody ambiguous

Well then you can see my comment as a clarification exercise for other readers - as this W.O.T and piston maximum lift is very important.

I'm not confusing myself I'm very coherent in what I'm thinking.


LOL pot, kettle, black, at the end of the day no one will convince you, as you don't understand the SU and appear not to want to learn anything.
Thick about the control of the mixture, if the dashpot shoots straight up, what's the point in actually having a needle ? Surely by your way of thinking. The best answer is to remove the needle....................

As for temperature, how much do you all think the oil in the dashpot actually heats up ? Think about what is actually going though the carb and what the carb and what dashpot are made of.

If you read I don't recommend for the piston to shoot up I agree that the oil should be thicker, it was just your comment of thickest is the best - it needed clarification, as yes a thicker oil is better but this (how thick) will vary from application to application.

#43 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:44 AM

well I like mine to shoot up...and the thickness is very important....Hang on are we still talking about carbs.....

#44 new_zealand _minis

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:13 AM

if you are setting up your car just use what ever .. i use 20w 50 now .. but i did use the proper su oil .. but i need the thincker oil to stop the pot dropping to fast .. helped alot

#45 firefox

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:31 AM

Di


In the real world, i've noticed that 3 in 1 works better with twins and thicker engine oil with single carb, but that could be related to my engine spec and how i tune my carbs.


Thats because twin carbs running weak, is better than one..............

hi bud you know anything about needle sizes in twin 1'' 1/4 on a 1275




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