
Checking Alternator Operation
#1
Posted 01 October 2011 - 06:50 PM
#2
Posted 01 October 2011 - 08:47 PM
if you want to test if somthing is draining the battery while the car is off remove the red lead from the volts input on the multimeter and put it into the "10amp" socket of the meter.remove the positive lead from the battery and connect the red lead on the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery and the black to the positive battery cable you removed from the battery set the dial on the multimeter to "amps" and see what is drawn anything realistically over an amp is too much as a standard rover alarm/immobiliser only draws around 0.2mA.
#3
Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:34 PM
#4
Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:47 PM
if you stick your mutlimeter on your battery terminals whilst your car is running and you get around 14 volts or lower then your alternator is good. if it is around 12v or lower i'd imagine your alternator could have gone. from this point if the voltage is too low you should stick your multimeter onto the back of the alternator and see what reading you get.
the battery should be fine with it only being a month old, as long as you haven't bought a super duper cheap one
don't forget too if everything seams ok, you could just have something draining the battery, like a interior light left on all the time by accident and leaving side lights on.
thanks
EDIT: oh dear, looks like i was a little late, haha
i went away for an hour then forgot i typed this message out xD
Edited by strettman, 01 October 2011 - 09:48 PM.
#5
Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:55 PM
#6
Posted 02 October 2011 - 12:45 AM
#7
Posted 02 October 2011 - 12:57 AM
cheers for that, I take it when i test at the alternator i leave the car running but have the alternator cable disconnected so i can get access to the terminal right?
No. NEVER disconnect the plug from an alternator while the engine is running. This can damage the circuitry inside the alternator. You should be able to access the terminals while the plug is in place. Depending on the plug, this may require pulling off the rear cover of the plug while the engine is "off", then connecting the plug again and starting the engine.
If I may, let me add a bit to what Mini_mad_daps has suggested. A fully charged "new" battery is likely to measure closer to 12.5 volts, not exactly 12. Measure across the battery terminals with the engine NOT running. Start the engine and repeat the test. You want to see an increase of 1 to 1.5 Volts from what you measured with the engine not running. If you see less than a volt increase then the alternator is not effectively charging the battery.
Incidentally, the charge warning light is not just an indicator, it is part of the charging circuit. The warning light must be:
1) Off when the engine is off and the key is out of the ignition.
2) On when the engine is off and the key is in the run position.
3) Off when the engine is running.
If the light is not behaving like this in all three circumstances the battery will not be charged.
#8
Posted 02 October 2011 - 07:47 AM

#9
Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:40 AM
as dklawson rightly said the charge warning light is more than just a light as the light completes the circuit and this inturn "adjitates" if ou will the 3 phases of the alternator to start the chargeing process. if the light is not lit before you turn the key and the bulb is blown it will not charge.
#10
Posted 02 October 2011 - 02:10 PM

#11
Posted 02 October 2011 - 03:38 PM
#12
Posted 02 October 2011 - 03:54 PM

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