As Ed says try it with the shaft inplace if there is still play let me know and i can send a bearing they are a press fit and should not slide in by handhave you tried it with the driveshaft in and tightened? there will be a small amount of play until the driveshaft is tightened fully? try it and see. if its still got play i would fit a new hub and bearing to be on the safe side.
is the hub pressed into the bearing?
or does it just slide in by hand?
Ed
Rear Wheel Bearing Play, Advice Needed :)
#16
Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:44 PM
#17
Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:55 PM
#18
Posted 05 October 2011 - 09:19 AM
Ed
#19
Posted 07 October 2011 - 01:37 PM
Thank you Steve!!
#20
Posted 11 October 2011 - 09:34 PM
Ed
#21
Posted 21 November 2011 - 08:07 AM
Any more ideas on how to solve this issue or what could be causing it? We are more than willing to take as many pics and videos as required in order to localize and solve this problem. We are now doing a complete rebuild so not in a hurry but we would really like to solve this issue before christmas.
Here are some pics and videos:
these are the two shaft heads we have tested without luck.
old bearing in the arm
closer look of the old bearing in place
latest video showing the present play with the new driveshaft head tighten in place.
Any recommendations or advice will be more than welcome!!!
Edited by proyecton10, 21 November 2011 - 08:09 AM.
#22
Posted 21 November 2011 - 12:46 PM
There are not many parts invovled, it should be very obvious
Cheers
David
#23
Posted 21 November 2011 - 05:55 PM
1) the bearing needs pressed into the trailing arm
2) The drive flange needs pressed into the bearing once bearing has been pressed into the trailing arm
if the drive flange slides into the bearing without resistance then my money would be on the drive flange being the wrong diameter.
(you there steve? is this correct)
Ed
#24
Posted 21 November 2011 - 11:10 PM
First of all is that nut tightened up there should be thread sticking through. Then I would try assembly without the spacer, if nothing is obvious, I would assemble just the CV without the radius arm using the old bearing if it's still usuable. Look at the back of the flange, is it sticking and not seating properly, ie some sort of ridge preventing the flange to sit securely against the inner bearing.
There are not many parts invovled, it should be very obvious
Cheers
David
Thank you David, we know it should n´t be a big deal but up to now it´s been a pain. When the original driveshaft is used the nylon bits on the thread. We will check as you suggested the sitting position with the old bearing, take some pics and we will let you know.
Thank you for your advice, cheers
#25
Posted 21 November 2011 - 11:13 PM
how tight is the drive flange? are you sure its tight in the bearing
1) the bearing needs pressed into the trailing arm
2) The drive flange needs pressed into the bearing once bearing has been pressed into the trailing arm
if the drive flange slides into the bearing without resistance then my money would be on the drive flange being the wrong diameter.
(you there steve? is this correct)
Ed
1) we have tighten it up as much as we considered reasonable before damaging the thread and there is still play in it. Maybe not as much as in the video when fully tighten but still a lot!
2) the new bearing was pressed, as well as the flange. even so we will check with the old bearing as David suggested and take some more detailed pics and videos. It can´t really be that hard but until now, no luck finding the issue.
Let´s see what Steve suggests....
Thank you lots Ed
#26
Posted 22 November 2011 - 01:25 AM
#27
Posted 22 November 2011 - 10:10 AM
Cheers
Edited by proyecton10, 22 November 2011 - 10:10 AM.
#28
Posted 22 November 2011 - 11:59 AM
#29
Posted 22 November 2011 - 12:09 PM
Mk3 is 290nm
#30
Posted 22 November 2011 - 12:15 PM
Sierra Front hub nut 229 to 258 lb/ft 310Nm - 350Nm
Edited by Alburglar, 22 November 2011 - 12:22 PM.
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