26 replies to this topic

[lrostoke]

I've got a bit confused with what the question is now

But using the dot to dot method No 1 cylinder isn't actually on the firing stroke TDC when the dots are aligned, this threw me a bit first time I fitted a new chain and sprocket set. It's actually No 4 cylinder on firing stroke.

To time the dizzy and dizzy drive. Once you have fitting the timing chain and aligned the dot. Turn the crank so that No 1 cylinder is at TDC (No 1 being radiator end), check that both valve rockers on No 1 have movement IE both valves are closed.

Then the dizzy drive can be fitted, when its in the correct position the rotor arm of the dizzy should be pointing to roughly a 2 o clock position.

[booton]

its this timing chain

• http://www.minisport...nfo_KENS12.html

and a far as i'm aware this is set up right.

[jaydee]

Sorry booton but i was referring to the pic posted by the OP.

[bmcecosse]

As others have suggested already - just move the spark plug leads round !

[booton]

got her ruining Yay,

But the oil pressure light the orange one dimmed but didn't turn of so turned it off.

i tired two oil pressure switches with the same result.

However i have quick a bad oil leak through the main seal behind the flywheel as oil is coming out of the hole on the bottom of the flywheel casing (where the split pin is)

would this leak cause the oil light not to turn off, it not ruining out but dripping pretty fast considering it was just ticking over.

i'm have to change the oil seal any way, do u think i need to change the oil pump. it not new, but a good friend who i had the block of and he said he recently changed it. there is oil up to the seal on the dip stick and oil it getting the the rockers on top.

so do u think the leak is causing the oil light not to turn of.

or is the oil pump not working efficiently enough.

thanks for all your help

thanks Irostoke in particular as this was what allowed to get it ruining very quickly.

[lrostoke]

Ideally you want to fit a oil pressure gauge, by the time a warning light comes on oil pressure is low enough to cause damage anyway.

Could try simple stuff first like checking the pressure relief valve is free and not stuck. Below oil pressure light switch, large domed nut, in there a spring and ball or spring and elongated "ball" make sure its not stuck.

In my experience oil leaks don't usual lower oil pressure enough to make the light come on. so other cause may be

worn mains and big ends, worn pump.

[booton]

ok well all the shells are new,( mains & big ends.) so i know fro deff they are now worn.

i will check that plunger things underneath.

if no luck i think it best to change the pump.

[lrostoke]

Last time we did a rebuild it was advised on here change the pump, definitly worth doing while the clutch is off.

If its had new mains and big ends, sounds like somebody didn't fit some of the seals right or damaged them , When the clutch housing plate is fitted the crank spline should be taped up stop it damaging the crank seal.

Edited by lrostoke, 28 September 2011 - 06:55 PM.

[booton]

yep thats what happend lol was a ******* to put on.

so do u think i should deff order a oil pump.

[lrostoke]

Hands up Im not expert, but it wasn't that expensive and we had the engine stripped so we did. So personally I would.

[booton]

well just order new pump. and seal, gaskets etc.

any tips for fitting the seal.

fit the case first then put the seal on or put the seal in the case then put the case on.

[moss6273]

Firstly, before you strip the engine, you must check the oil pressure with a gauge and the oil pressure relief valve (if pressure is low) before going to the expense and time of fitting a new oil pump.
As regards the seal, it can be done both ways obviously depending on whether you are changing the pump. In either case, it is imperative that the sharp lip on the forward seal running surface is "hidden" from the seal as this can cause it to split - the problem you have now.
Essentially, you will need to cover the whole of the primary gear (splines) with a layer of insulation tape. Next, you need to gradually increase the diameter of the splines to match that of the seal running surface - you can do this with insulation tape, or find something which has the internal diameter of the splines and external diameter of the running surface (a modified spray can cap may help - cut off the top and split it down the side) then cover everything with insulation tape so that you end up with a nice smooth surface. Then cover the tape with a good smear of grease/oil. You should now be able to push the seal along the primary gear easily until it is next to its housing. Now the hard part. You need to push the seal "home" until its outer face is flush with the housing. By smearing a light coat of oil around the outside of the seal you should be able to start the insertion with finger pressure, but make sure the seal is square with the hole by applying pressure equally on opposite sides of the seal. This will take time and patience to get it right. Once started, either find a large metal tube and tap the seal home, or using a small block of wood (splinter free), tap the seal home lightly and on diametrically opposite sides.
If you find that you are replacing the oil pump, don't forget to check the idler gear endfloat. If you have not removed the engine and split the gearbox, the only way to do this is by removing the primary gear and oil seal and measure the endfloat through the oil seal hole. This is very tricky and should be done with the new gasket in place and torqued to the correct figure, Measure it several times to be sure. It can be done! Make sure that you grease the bottom (1st motion shaft) bearing before refitting the cover and pushing the roller bearings against their race. This should make fitting of the cover easier and eliminate potential damage to the roller bearing.
Finally, don't forget to measure the primary gear endfloat.
Keep us posted with your progress.