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Leyland Mini 1000 1980 Restoration Project


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#91 minifcd

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:27 PM

Graham, you could always take the mini inside too! Don't you have patio doors?! I noticed just how much lighter it was outside this afternoon. Get the warmer/lighter nights and i'll be trying to get a bit more done after work.

#92 grahama

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 09:09 PM

Stripping the gearbox in the hall has nearly got me divorced lol, bringing the mini would finish the job, or have her comitted !!

#93 mini_in_progress

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 10:33 PM

just read the whole thread this is awsome work so neat! this will be mint!

#94 minifcd

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 08:21 PM

Thanks mini_in_progress for your comments. Another update and first I thought I would show you my experiment in rust removal! Take a large tub, pour in some malt vinegar (1 litre bottles from supermarket for next to nothing), throw in the rusty bits and leave for 2-3 days. When removed rinse off with a hose pipe to leave clean rust free metal. Dry off immediately to prevent surface rust forming. Don't leave parts in for much longer than that or you may not have much left when you return!
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I didn't get a picture when washed off but you'll see the panel welded back on shortly. Next, after getting all the rust out of the crossmember, from where brake fluid had leaked and eaten the paint away, I had to apply a thin skim of filler to level up all of the pits.
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Removed the left hand crossmember support bracket to clean off the rust behind.
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Cleaned and welded back on.
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Right hand bracket welded back on.
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Next I had to add some weld to the drivers side A panel lip as the lip narrowed down too much.
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Ground down.
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Then made and spot welded on the reinforcing tabs.
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Thats it for this update, thanks for looking.

#95 Mini-Mad-Craig

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:38 PM

Awesome project mate. My heap is in a very similar state of rustyness as this was in page 1... you did an awesome job :)

#96 minifcd

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 09:23 PM

Thanks Mini-Mad-Craig, do you have a project thread for yours?

Decided to do another update, although this is only for one repair. This is probably my favorite repair so far so I thought I'd show you the complete process.
Rear passengers side window rotten at the bottom. Waist rail on inside already removed to be replaced with new.
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New waist rail clamped in place as a guide, but I won't be fitting this untill a lot later on in the build, so as not to get grinding dust behind it, whilst shell is on it's side again. Bad metal cut out and measurements taken previously marked at various points.
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Folded a length of metal in the metal folder, trimmed and clamped in place.
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A few tack welds.
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Then made this piece to repair the forward curve at the "B" post.
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Welded in and ground down and then used a DA sander to blend together.
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The vertical lip has been left slightly high and will be trimmed down when the waist rail is fitted.
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Finally cleaned the inside of the rear quarter down to bare metal to be primed.
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Thanks.

#97 hughJ

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 10:15 PM

Your fabrication!! its second to none. I just wish I had your skill. Lovely work as always - keep it going.

Hugh

#98 minifcd

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:14 PM

Thanks Hugh.
A little more progress. Rear quarter panel cleaned down to bar metal.
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Then, whilst cleaning around the "C" pillar, I found this little hole.
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Made another repair piece.
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Trimmed and tacked in place.
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Welded up.
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Cleaned down.
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Then had to do the same to the rear panel upper corner.
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Small piece made and tacked in.
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Welded up.
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Finally, ground down.
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Thanks for looking.

#99 MMoss

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:28 PM

Lovely neat work!

Are you planning to go down to bare metal everywhere prr to priming?

Cheers
Matt

#100 minifcd

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:43 PM

Thanks Matt. Yes everywhere except for the new panels. I want to make sure there is no rust under the paint. I have found some in places.

#101 hughJ

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:03 PM

That is fantastic, absolutely fantastic. I know how hard it is to repair at the guttering and can just but admire and be jealous. Totally invisible repairs. I think you use weld as filler. That's so much better than repairs you see that us filler as weld!!

Well as usual, wishing you well and thanking you for showing how it should be done

Hugh

#102 Andrew O

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:05 PM

Your fabrication work always amazes me, I wish I could be so neat with my project.

#103 MR J

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:40 PM

Just read all 7 pages, another thread i have totally missed until now. Your work is simply outstanding.

#104 Bean

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:51 PM

What are you using to strip the paint right back?

This is just the most amazing project! O_O

#105 minifcd

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 12:07 PM

Thanks Hugh, I aim to get it as good as possible with the metal work, so that if required, only the thinest skim of filler is needed to level up. I've read so many horror stories on here where pepole have come to restore thier mini, only to find inches of filler.

Andrewo330 thanks, I've had trouble trying to get some of my repairs neat, but the turning point really was the bottom of the rear window repair. I tried different methods, got the gap between the two panels even and tack welded in. Then instead of running seam welds, keep adding tacks between two previous tacks and work from one end to the other. Then go back to the start and repeat again until all gaps are filled. That way you don't build up too much heat. When you grind down, be very gentle, not being too heavy and concentrate on the top of the welds not the surrounding metal. Keep moving along the line so as not to build up too much heat, gradually flatten the angle of the grinder and it will all start to blend together. I then used a DA sander with 80 grit to finish off.

Thanks MR J, I keep finding topics i've missed on here too. Thanks for your comments.

Bean, thanks I tend to use anything that works with a high rate of removal to get it done quicker. Small wire wheels on the drill work well in some areas, sanding discs on a flexible rubber backing in the drill work well, but slow speeds only as they soon break up. I find the best thing for large flat areas to be the stripping and cleaning discs that you mount on an angle grinder. Again be gentle with them and they last longer. See link below to see what I mean.

http://www.abrasives...-And-Strip.aspx

Edited by minifcd, 22 January 2012 - 12:10 PM.





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