Leyland Mini 1000 1980 Restoration Project
#196
Posted 28 March 2012 - 07:49 PM
Cheers deebo and Mini Mad Craig. Thanks for your comments.
CBJ805T - thanks and yes, I have been using etch primer over the bare metal. I use Upol Acid No.8 Etch Primer in rattle can form and have had no trouble when used to paint other components with various top coats from different paint brands. I used it on my first mini with no trouble but only time will tell, when the body finally goes for paint. I work at the garage where it will be painted anyway, although in the workshop, not the bodyshop, so I can keep an eye on how it all goes! I am using it mainly to prevent rust from re-forming now, whilst i'm doing the body repairs, so if there is any question on compatibility when it comes to paint, i'll just sand it down again. I have complete trust in our painter, so if he's not happy with it before paint, then off it comes.
Thanks.
#197
Posted 29 March 2012 - 11:42 AM
A few more pictures after removing the interior, the windows and the engine. The front panel and wings had all been replaced at some point and the photos show just how badly! The front panel wasn't attached at the bottom of either of the inner wings, there were only a few tacks holding the entire front end together and after knocking the filler out of the scuttle to wing join you could quite literally get your finger through it! I managed to remove the front with nothing more than a hammer and srew driver to break the tack welds.
Hi Scott, what are you using to remove your spot welds? I just noticed the once you had to remove on the scuttle, and I'll have to be doing the same soon. I've been using a draper spot weld cutting bit (http://www.drapertoo...spot-5168-67074) but its wanders all over the place so is very hard to control and with only 1 wing's worth of spots drilled, I've already broken some teeth of 2 of the heads - as this rate the spot drill will cost more than the panels
thanks for any advice
Chris
#198
Posted 29 March 2012 - 11:12 PM
#199
Posted 31 March 2012 - 11:22 AM
A tap with a centrepunch on the spot weld will help the tip of the cutter centre itself and stop wandering across the panel. The tiniest mark with a small diameter drill bit at low revs can have the same effect......
Hope this helps
#200
Posted 31 March 2012 - 07:19 PM
Hugh
#201
Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:12 PM
Thanks Hugh, as always your comments are most welcome.
Didn't get a lot done over this weekend but here is what I did anyway. Had a go at sorting the drivers side front corner of the gutter. Mainly rotten on the inside.
Made a small repair piece with the most curve of all the pieces so far. Ignore the ripples in it at the moment, thats just because of the way it curves and its need to shrink.
I'll let the pictures tell the story here.
Then I finished up the day by cleaning the rest of the welds down under the gutter above the door.
Thats it, thanks.
#202
Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:15 PM
#203
Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:20 PM
#204
Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:34 PM
#205
Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:13 AM
#206
Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:43 PM
Hugh
#207
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:51 PM
#208
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:53 PM
#209
Posted 03 April 2012 - 12:12 PM
#210
Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:27 PM
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