508 replies to this topic

[Jamie_hail]

Cheers buddy! Will go out and take a look in the morning, will hopefully be there somewhere! I just cant recall seeing an extra plug anywhere on either my minitec loom, or the engine loom! Thanks though!

[Kam]

On the minitec website with there picture of the loom this looks like the female one for the lambda



On your engine loom the male plug is definitely there, when I first pulled off my engine loom off the block I remember I labelled it



If you pull the engine loom out straight you should have three large plugs on there own metal brackets either end, gearbox end and alternator end, smack bang in the middle (bottom part of my pic) should be the one your after, just look out for that inner plug shape and the wire colours above

Hth

[Kam]

Edit: Sorry Jamie that line above was meant to say

"On your engine loom the female plug is definitely there, when I first pulled off my engine loom off the block I remember I labelled it"

The male plug will obviously be in the exhaust

[Jamie_hail]

Thanks very much for that Kam! Found it!

Anyway - update!





Might try and take a bit more off, or round it off a bit - but not too fussed - the bulk of it is off, and it looks neat enough!

Engines looking a little rough - taking off the engine loom to try and tidy up a bit! Will also probably take this oppurtunity to fit the sandwhich plate for my oil pressure, temprature guages, and my oil cooler and filter relocation kit, when I get round to getting some money back in!


Cleaned the fuel rail up a bit, and a close friend who specialises in injector cleaning has ultrasonically cleaned them, and also tested the spray pattern for me - all is well!

Edited by Jamie_hail, 30 December 2011 - 01:18 AM.

[Kam]

Good work Jamie, your lucky you got a mate who specialises in injector cleaning!

You don't really need to shave anymore from the underside of the inlet, mines cut the same - just a straight chop, there is room under there with just that chop, not alot but just enough but definitely wouldn't hurt to round it off and smooth it over as your the one whos gonna be sticking your hand under there trying to tighten up the inlet manifold nuts!

I know your getting an oil relocation kit which is a good move by the way but just so you know how much room you would've had to play around with, from the back of the block (inline with the rear water pipe) you got about 7" to the bulkhead, 2" of that is taken up by the standard oil cooler so for a normal person that would leave 5" to fit an oil filter and sandwich plate, its tight.......

Like I said, good move

[Jamie_hail]

Happy new year Kermit - you'll be alive this year, and off your SORN, dont worry <3

[Jamie_hail]

Been working on the electrical side of things... Well. Kind of. Not done a whole lot! Waiting on some sheet metal to do some work on my dash so I can position stuff properly...

Ordered a nice big HDPE cut off, from a guy on ebay which came today!



I drilled two 6mm holes through the block. Then took a 10 mm hole almost all the way through, to basically countersink in the head of an allen bolt.

Two bolts in.





Once I was happy with that, and made sure the block fitted roughly where I wanted it, I took the swarf from the drilling, and stuffed the holes in the block with it.



Kept melting down the swarf and stuffing more and more in the holes. Buzz over with a blow torch every few seconds, and I now have a nice smooth block, with no holes, and two pole terminals! :)



Then, took some self adhesive velcro, and coated the bottom - ready to stick it to the bit between the bottom dash rail and bulkhead, once I get some metal to fill in the gaps. or maybe a hinged panel?




One pole/bolt will have a terminal on it, taken from the battery side of my battery isolater, for permanant lives. The other shall have a terminal taken from the other side of my battery isolater, as a switched live!

Nice simple contraption, that should make taking permanant and switched lives through my fuseboxes for stuff, much easier! Also makes adding more goodies in future MUCH easier!

[Jamie_hail]

Also ground the intake manifold even flatter... Need to run a file over it to remove any burrs and swarf, but it's much better than it was!



Before;



Also fitted the allspeed sticker to the rear window, and since the picture, gave it a once over with glass polish! :)

[Kam]

Little question for anyone who knows... surely regardless of engine, if its got a y21 box, then its hydro and fine for the allspeed kit? I've got a b16a, with y21. it'll fit, right?

You do like to make life difficult for yourself don't you? I know thats a bit pot n kettle coming from me

Well all b series stuff is meant to be interchangeable, I've bolted my y21 box on my b16a2 b18c6 and b20b blocks and popped then into the allspeed frame all fine, I don't believe the allspeed frame can cater a y2 box easily enough due to the gearbox mount being in a very slightly different position to the y21 so your lucky you have got a y21 box..........also the custom rear allspeed mount may not fit the y1 box as the I'm sure the y1 box has slightly less depth than the y21 as the latter has the electronic Vehicle Speed Sensor located near there, the y1 VSS is cable driven

Now then - the issue - as far as I'm concerned, your driveshafts

I'm thinking that your b16a intermediate shaft has bolt holes on the block which are maybe slightly different hole positions to the b16a2 one so you can't interchange the intermediate shafts, I know the simple solution is just to get some standard b16a pot joints/driveshafts to go with your b16a intermediate shaft (not b16a2 pots as they are different) but I'm sure I've seen a picture over on 16v showing the b16a to be slightly longer than the b16a2? which means your b16a intermediate shaft might not sit properly in the y21 box?

I hope I'm wrong, easiest thing for you to do is to quickly bolt the engine and box together on the floor with four bolts and pop your intermediate shaft in the diff and make sure the bolt holes are lining up the other end, if it does then phew! then use the normal b16a pot joints not b16a2

Just incase I'll get a measurement tomorrow of my a2 intermediate shaft bolt holes so you can compare to your a ones

Edited by Kam, 05 January 2012 - 10:00 PM.

[Jamie_hail]

Well - good news then - the engine and box came out of the same car! I split them myself to make storing and moving stuff around easier!

Thanks for that Kam - Big help! Bit of peace of mind!
Engine should be going in in about a fortnight - just waiting to be able to afford a cone compressor, cones, and some suspension!

[Kam]

Sorted then it read like you bought them separate thats all

Will be fun when you finally drop the engine in the bay, have patience though when your trying to get the final engine positioning, its a pain - just a heads up

[MiniFTW]

Hi mate,

I noticed the clocks you had in the middle of your dash, I haven't seen any clocks like that before and was interested in where you purchased them from?

The mini looks great mate! Any info be great, Cheers.

[Jamie_hail]

Hi mate,

I noticed the clocks you had in the middle of your dash, I haven't seen any clocks like that before and was interested in where you purchased them from?

The mini looks great mate! Any info be great, Cheers.

They're autogauge made, they came in the dash that was originally in the car. They'll be up for sale, soon? I'm going down the fully digital route. Drop me a message if you're interested. I've got oil temp, oil pressure, vaccuum and a voltmeter.

[Jamie_hail]

Sorry guys, blame the lack of updates on minisport. Waiting on cones and upper arms.

[MiniFTW]

Hi mate,

I noticed the clocks you had in the middle of your dash, I haven't seen any clocks like that before and was interested in where you purchased them from?

The mini looks great mate! Any info be great, Cheers.

They're autogauge made, they came in the dash that was originally in the car. They'll be up for sale, soon? I'm going down the fully digital route. Drop me a message if you're interested. I've got oil temp, oil pressure, vaccuum and a voltmeter.

PM'd!