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The Noobs Budget Vtec.


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#136 Jamie_hail

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 05:40 PM

that looks realy good now cant wate to see the engine in going off the subject abit how do you get your piks up so big mine just come up small and look crap realy


First off, take them with a decent camera... Not a phone. Admittedly, most of mine have been taken on an iphone... And the rest on my Nikon d300s...

Anyway - yeah, use a decent camera... Upload them to whichever website you use... Most people use photobucket. Whenever they're uploaded, right click the 'IMG' code - copy and paste it here. If you upload them to facebook or somewhere... Open the picture. click refresh, then right click when it's fully loaded again. 'Copy image address' - Then paste that into the 'insert image' on here...

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#137 johny:)

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 08:20 PM

ok thanks for that will give it a try :)

#138 Kam

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 08:35 PM

thats quite cheap seemes the mini tec kit is 1800 to the door what will you do about drive shafts now


If like me you get that allspeed frame as above and also there own rose jointed tie bars/lower arms (tie bars are kinked for caliper clearance) and there heavy duty CV's and driveshafts along with the front alternator bracket then your looking about £1500 all in

That allspeed frame is the most easiest out there by far if your using a clubman or extended front, everything on it is a dead easy fit, clear instructions and help from Rob when needed, best thing is alot of people have used it so help is at a click of a button, the frame is pure clubman though so if your going standard length then minitec comes into play here

Frames looking Jamie :thumbsup: have a good look at the instructions so you can think ahead of anything else that needs doing now, you will need to shave off a section on the steering rack and use countersunk bolts on it and shave off a small section on the back of the diff case, together this will give you some much needed extra mm of space, any clearance made just means less chance of knocks and bangs when your out on the road, and when the clearances are just 3-5mm..........it matters :lol:

If you need some pics where to cut then just holla

p.s aint you meant to unwrap gifts under the tree tomorrow? :teehee:

#139 Jamie_hail

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 09:49 PM


thats quite cheap seemes the mini tec kit is 1800 to the door what will you do about drive shafts now


If like me you get that allspeed frame as above and also there own rose jointed tie bars/lower arms (tie bars are kinked for caliper clearance) and there heavy duty CV's and driveshafts along with the front alternator bracket then your looking about £1500 all in

That allspeed frame is the most easiest out there by far if your using a clubman or extended front, everything on it is a dead easy fit, clear instructions and help from Rob when needed, best thing is alot of people have used it so help is at a click of a button, the frame is pure clubman though so if your going standard length then minitec comes into play here

Frames looking Jamie :thumbsup: have a good look at the instructions so you can think ahead of anything else that needs doing now, you will need to shave off a section on the steering rack and use countersunk bolts on it and shave off a small section on the back of the diff case, together this will give you some much needed extra mm of space, any clearance made just means less chance of knocks and bangs when your out on the road, and when the clearances are just 3-5mm..........it matters :lol:

If you need some pics where to cut then just holla

p.s aint you meant to unwrap gifts under the tree tomorrow? :teehee:


Thanks a lot Kam! (Got another name, or is it just Kam?)
I've read and read and read the instructions, got nothing else to do at night! Will shave the steering rack down some time over the christmas break! Currently fighting with the intake manifold - got it off, but cant find my grinding disks, or even cutting disks! So will be onto that tommorow, after all the official bits and bobs have been done, and I get a few hours garage time whilst dinner cooks.

Going to have to wait to get the shell rolling before I can even think about putting the engine in, as it has to be done outside due to the lack of an engine crane... So, will be another few weeks till I can get myself a cone compressor, and a new set of cones. Wont be back at work till after new year, but will have a hefty bonus coming after doing some insurance work!

Couldnt ask for a few pictures of how you originally mounted your rad, could I?

But, but, but... It wasn't the main tree, and it was already open when I put it there... surely that counts for something? ;) There'll be goodies under the tree tommorow I think... I feel wires, not that I've been shaking my presents ;) Wires should equal the minitec loom that I was hinting at a few months ago!

We will see! Thanks for all your help so far by the way! Merry christmas too you and the family dude!

#140 Kam

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 10:59 PM

If you ask a few on here I'm sure they will give you another name to call me by :- but no its Kam, that is my actual name, my username was a simple one really :genius:

You can cut off alot of the underside of the inlet, none of the bracket holding materials are needed, its just bolted straight to head and thats all you need, just beware though getting to the lower/middle nuts under the inlet is a nightmare unless you got alot of fiddly tools, when you first test fit you'll see

My rad was held in by the top and bottom hose and thats it! :lol: there was a few knocks and bangs but it lived, you could literally rock the rad a good inch back n forth as I didn't bother sorting out how to secure the bottom section

I'm not saying do the same just there are ways to make a bracket or secure it in place later, you'll have lots of room, I didn't care as I wanted the car on the road but Burnard gave me grief about it so I made a little bracket for it :-

Shaking presents is not a good move either, what if someone has got you a fish? But I digress.....

Merry xmas to you aswell, have a good one, and if one of your presents leak, well I did warn you :lol:

#141 Jamie_hail

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 11:58 PM

If you ask a few on here I'm sure they will give you another name to call me by :- but no its Kam, that is my actual name, my username was a simple one really :genius:

You can cut off alot of the underside of the inlet, none of the bracket holding materials are needed, its just bolted straight to head and thats all you need, just beware though getting to the lower/middle nuts under the inlet is a nightmare unless you got alot of fiddly tools, when you first test fit you'll see

My rad was held in by the top and bottom hose and thats it! :lol: there was a few knocks and bangs but it lived, you could literally rock the rad a good inch back n forth as I didn't bother sorting out how to secure the bottom section

I'm not saying do the same just there are ways to make a bracket or secure it in place later, you'll have lots of room, I didn't care as I wanted the car on the road but Burnard gave me grief about it so I made a little bracket for it :-

Shaking presents is not a good move either, what if someone has got you a fish? But I digress.....

Merry xmas to you aswell, have a good one, and if one of your presents leak, well I did warn you :lol:


I'll stick with Kam then - just wasn't sure if it was your real name or not! :P

Will take it right back flush with the rest, I think... Is it cast solid right back to the actual inlet tract? Feels it! got many long low profile ratchet spanners and flexible shafts, I'm sure I'll cope somehow! I'll maybe just get the inlet measured up and everything made to fit... And then pull the engine back forward somewhat to fit and tighten the nuts!

Ahh okay - was just wondering! When I saw the subframe with no mounts on it, it just made me wonder wether there was ment to be or not! I'll knock up a bracket to hold it steady when the engine and exhaust manifold is in place! Got a 15 row oil cooler to fit somewhere too, and an oil filter relocation kit.

Wouldn't be surprised actually - mother is a manager with Marine Harvest - she's been giving people salmon, and sides of smoked salmon! Better not shake any more, dont want no fishy juices everywhere!

And if one of my presents do leak, I'm blaming you! Should of warned me earlier ;)

#142 Jamie_hail

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 07:00 PM

Well well well, I HAVE been a good boy!

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Savage switches!
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And of course, the obligitory mini owners christmas teddy!

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#143 kcchan

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 07:10 PM

Thats a pretty good haul!

#144 johny:)

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 07:41 PM

im gessing your good friends with father christmas lol you didnt do bad there

#145 Jamie_hail

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 08:02 PM

Thats what happens when you're good, and work for the family business, and work all hours, sometimes for nothing! Pays off eventually! :) Very very happy with it all!

#146 Kam

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 12:05 PM

Thats a pretty awesome lump there for xmas :thumbsup:

Starter gearknob looks cool, those switches will look uber cool aswell, I'm still 50/50 on the teddy though :lol:

Does that exhaust have the lambda hole in there already? I think on the hondas it points up, so that hole might need to be welded up and spun 45 degrees so its pointing out directly to the passenger wheel as its the only space for it on the allspeed frames like so

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Just something to check

#147 kcchan

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 06:30 PM

I only found this out the other day but the lambda points up to reduce condensation pooling and ruining the sensor. Simple but makes sense.

#148 Jamie_hail

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 07:32 PM

Thanks Kam! Yeah, the lambda sensor is pointing upwards - but I'm going to blank it off and make a new hole in the next section of pipe, save me messing up the nice shiny manifold!

You're right KC - they're pointed upwards to help with longetivity! Doesn't effect readings though!

Kam - couldn't do me another favor, and show/tell me where your lamba sensor connects to the engine loom? Mine doesnt have any spare wires, or a sensor lying around!

#149 Jamie_hail

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 08:33 PM

Ordered a couple of bits and peices today - Small block of plastic to start work on my distribution board, some new brass nuts for the manifold and now the bank balance is sitting at a nice little £2.10 - need to get back to work, but that wont be till after new year! Next purchase will be the bracket from you, Kam!

#150 Kam

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 11:48 PM

Kam - couldn't do me another favor, and show/tell me where your lamba sensor connects to the engine loom? Mine doesnt have any spare wires, or a sensor lying around!


You had to ask me an electrical question didn't you :lol: I know as much about electrics as I do on how to fly a shuttle to the moon and back - so not alot then!

My wiring loom is a pre-made one from watsons as part of there kit, its not one I made up so I don't know alot about it, I'm guessing the lambda plug just goes to the ECU along with everything else?

Popped out for a look anyway, on the male plug for the lambda sensor itself as below:

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Theres four wires, two black a white and a green

On the female plug thats part of the loom (which I'm guessing runs to the ECU) its got four wires but the colours are, white, green with white trace, yellow with black trace and orange with black trace

Check your loom first for the female part of that plug above




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