
Whos Rollered Their Car?

Best Answer leadly , 11 October 2011 - 07:49 AM
Still need to get my finger out and test rollering out on my old bonnet to see what I can acheive. Alot of roller projects look great on the net but I still don't think i'v seen a good job in the flesh yet....unless they were that good I didnt realise it was rollered. lol
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#61
Posted 08 February 2012 - 11:16 PM
#62
Posted 09 February 2012 - 12:32 PM
http://www.rawlinspa..._colourcard.pdf
Looking at the chart, I am wondering if it was 7001 that I ordered but I am sure it was Ral 7005, I will try and check next time I'm up the lockup (if I haven't dribbled paint over the lable

I have been surprised how well the colour has gone down :)
If you want to some more pics of the painting, here is the build thread (must get back on it

http://www.theminifo...latest-rebuild/
Edited by craig 1010cc, 09 February 2012 - 12:37 PM.
#63
Posted 09 February 2012 - 02:56 PM
Last question what types of paint can you use?
Cheers
#64
Posted 09 February 2012 - 05:34 PM
http://www.rustoleum...lourselect/1/19
You also need thinner:
http://www.rustoleum...lourselect/1/22
From this site you can buy the rollers... not sure how many you need but if one drys out you will need to replace it, I would go with 4 or 6 (just to be safe)
http://www.tools-pai...%29_43304_43304
And here is the handle for it (not sure if this is the exact one, but it should fit... I can't find just the handle by itself)
http://www.diy.com/n...-4-Inch-9371322
You also need a foam paintbrush, again if this drys out you will need to replace it, I would go with 2 or 3 of them, you can find them easily on google, I won't link you as there's lots of different sizes that you can choose from :) These only cost a quid each

Also you will need sandpaper to prep the car with, start with 1500 grit wet and dry and then finish off with 3000 grit wet and dry, you can find this stuff on ebay.
Paint - £60
Thinner - £24
Rollers - £10
Roller handle - £4
Foam brushes - £6
Sandpaper - £10
TOTAL - £104 (remember this is just an estimate, you might want to spend more on paints / brushes etc)
You might also want to invest in a sanding block or electric sander but this is your choice (I recommend a sanding block at minimum)
Elliott
Edited by elliott1905, 09 February 2012 - 05:41 PM.
#65
Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:12 PM

#66
Posted 09 February 2012 - 07:52 PM
Cheers mate that's brilliant everything I needed saves £400 or so thanks again pal
Sorry mate I got that wrong! the sandpaper I was thinking about was for polishing a car! you need 120, 400 and 800 grit wet and dry...
Get all the big lumps / bumps worked with 120 grit wet and dry, then give it a rub everywhere with 400 grit wet and dry, and then smooth everything off real tidy with 800 grit wet and dry
Hope this helps!
#67
Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:30 PM

Try and go to a pound shop for your rollers and foam brushes, much cheaper :)
#68
Posted 17 February 2012 - 10:38 AM
#69
Posted 17 February 2012 - 11:17 AM
and on the costings, don't bother with getting their thinner, buy normal white spirits, same stuff but much cheaper (and you'll need no more than 20% of the vol of paint + a bit for cleaning out equipment) or buy a couple ltrs of celly thinners like I did :)
Edited by craig 1010cc, 17 February 2012 - 11:19 AM.
#70
Posted 17 February 2012 - 11:28 AM
So it be a 5:1 ratio of paint to thinner if im right?
#71
Posted 17 February 2012 - 05:06 PM
I checked the tin and couldn't see the temp range, but did get teh paint code, Ral 7005
They recomend 10% thinning on their site and drying time listed for 10 deg C
Edited by craig 1010cc, 17 February 2012 - 05:11 PM.
#72
Posted 17 February 2012 - 05:58 PM
#73
Posted 23 March 2014 - 09:52 AM
#74
Posted 03 April 2014 - 06:28 PM
Go for it, but remember that the prep required is no diff to spraying and it takes longer. But for £60, I can't grumble. Even considering repainting my 'new' beetle daily this was as the paints sh*te on it
#75
Posted 04 April 2014 - 09:58 AM
Have just completed mine and will offer some advice:
I did 2 coats followed by a rub down with 800 wet and dry, then a further 2 coats and a final rub down with 1200 wet and dry. The black roof looked superb until I t-cut it, that took off the shine and no mater what I did after that couldn't get it back, and any bits in the paint that I rubbed out went back to the original paint...so I would say at least 7 or 8 coats to be safe.
On the rest of the car I bypassed the t-cut and after the 1200 went straight for a polish...kept the shine and looks pretty good. I also experimented with a small area of clear coat, this looked identical to the polish.
At a cross roads now as to start again or rent a sprayer. As after many many hours of rubbing down and skinless fingers! it still looks average. Also don't scrimp on the masking tape, my cheap ones bled under here and there.
Only having a small garage made it a bit of a nightmare doing one side at a time, but still matched fine. The only thing putting me off doing it again is the drying times...expect a week or so to do the job.
Just my humble experience.
Jay.
First Pic is a before....2nd pic is after 4th coat and ready for final 1200 and polish.
Edited by jayh29, 04 April 2014 - 10:03 AM.
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