740 replies to this topic

[MrBounce]

Just a quick update. Went to see my good friend this evening and in between helping him chuck an engine in his Riley Elf project, I nicked his cone compressor to get my cones out. It was all straightforward and easy. And the top arm I thought was seized has freed itself off a bit too. I haven't removed the doughnuts or top arms yet - will do that on the bench when there's a bit more time.

One side done...



...and the other.

[MrBounce]

Another quick update - managed to get a bit of time this afternoon so I set about removing the top arms and doughnuts. The top arms were a cinch; just undo the bolts on the plate, then the big nuts on the shaft and push it out. Both the shafts looked in pretty good nick, weren't seized and had plenty of grease on them. The only things that will need replacing are the dust covers at the ends. I am hoping I can get these separately without having to buy a full rebuild kit. I took out the nylon cups where the knuckles sit as they're being replaced anyway. They gave up without a fight as they looked brand new and were covered in copperslip.

The doughnuts were somewhat different. Although easy to remove, they look very well used with cracks in the rubber and badly painted flaking hammerite on the metal bits. This is what I don't get about this car: there's some stuff that's in fantastic condition yet other parts are rubbish: why replace the top arms and not the doughnuts if you know they're not up to scratch? Never mind - I'll do both...

To make me feel a bit better I put the pedalbox back together with plenty of copperslip on the shaft. It all went together nice and easily (as it should!). The pics don't do it justice.

I didn't take a picture but I managed to scrape of some of the surface rust on the front (very seized and dead) shocks. It looks like says "Midas" on them. If that's so they're likely to be 31 years old. I am definitely not using them!

Nearside arm out...



...and Offside arm.



Nylon knuckle cups - out without an issue.



Rather sorry looking doughnuts.



Rebuilt pedalbox - better-looking in the flesh!

[stretch tech]

just read through the whole build...cracking work mate, it's interesting to see all the small differences in the parts compared to mini parts

keep it up

Rhys

[MrBounce]

Having returned from a week in the Lake District (too much food, alcohol and walks - my legs hurt like hell after the first 2 days!) it was time to set about removing what was left on the shell. I started off with the damper brackets. 4 nuts to undo each side; how difficult could it be? Driver's side was a piece of cake although a bit of a struggle due to the limited access and excess rust (as usual). Turns out the bottom 2 nuts are on captive bolts. These are in the main crossmember and are inaccesible other than through the hole where the subframe tower bolts go. Which is virtually impossible without a very weird tool which I don't have. The passenger side however, because I started it on Friday 13th, was an absolute backside of a job. 3 of the nuts came off easily, but the fourth broke its captive mounting so the whole bolt just spun. Because it is in such a stupid place there was no way I could get to it. Due to the rust I would need to replace said bolt anyway, so out came my old buddy Dremel and I cut the nut & bolt off. The build manual states that it's a special plate with captive nuts that needs to be pushed in with a screwdriver. I'll have to get creative and build a couple of new ones. The damper brackets themselves are a bit strange - they're like a Mini damper bracket but with an extra bit welded on and with extra holes. And of course they are ridiculously rusty... Wire brush time methinks...

Next up were the brackets which the front subframe mounts bolt to. These were surprisingly simple and in fairly good nick, so just a spanner and ratchet needed here. They are slightly different though - wonder if these were made up by someone who got the dimensions wrong and one had to be changed?

For the sake of undoing six bolts the steering column and rack had to go. The column needed a bit of persuasion to part company with the rack (my rubber mallet helped!) but was soon off. It doesn't appear to be in bad nick, and the splines look in good condition. The rack was a bit of a surprise though. It wasn't as healthy as I had initially thought. It was ridiculously stiff, the track rod ends were shot to bits and the gaiters were damaged and perished. Time for a new one then. At least I've got a couple of brand-new old stock track rod ends on the shelf that came with the car. The rack still has that poxy gold Hammerite on it...

Walking around the car I removed the passenger side mirror blank. This was held on by a single rusty screw, which had of course seized solid and would not turn. However, I ground a straight slot in the screw with the Dremel, then used a flat balde screwdriver to undo it. It had released itself from the fibreglass due to the heat from the grinding. I also removed the two bits of rubber at the front of the rear wheelarches using the same technique. These are very strange. They appear to be protecting the beam assembly from the road grime and salt kicked up by the wheels and have been constructed of what appears to be an old inner tube. I will see what I can create to replace them.

The throttle pedal was next. It's one of the earlier (i.e Mini Mk 1-3 ) smaller pedals, but mine has a Speedwell extension on it, which I rather like. However, because of where the pedal has been placed, the extension fouls on the wheelarch so you can't get full throttle. I am not sure whether to simply remove the extension or re-mount the pedal (the captive bolts & bracket are a bit badly made) about 5mm closer to the centre of the car. I need to consider my options!

Also, after helping a good friend with his Elf, I found myself the lucky recipient of a modified Maniflow centre-exit back-box. Which may be used in due course...

There's very little left on the shell now bar the doors (which I want to get hanging properly before I take them apart), the brake & fuel lines, the rear wiring loom and about 3 bolts/studs. Almost everything is off!!

First bracket off



Nearside bracket viewed from under the wheelarch, with stubborn nut and broken captive bolt.



And out. A couple of minor grazes from the Dremel. Time for de-rusting.



Subframe front brackets & spreader plates. These will be repainted. Note they're different...



Column out - seems in good nick - I will re-do the bushes though!



Rack not so good...



... here's why #1...



... and here's why #2



Mirror blank off. It's ugly under there!!



Odd rubber things from the back of the car



New old stock track rod ends. Yay!



Throttle pedal. Decisions, decisions...



Modified Maniflow backbox - I may well use this!

[MrBounce]

Having bashed into the subframe for the umpteenth time this week whilst in the garage, I thought it was about time to clean it up. As it was a nice day (what's one of those??!!) I chucked it outside on the workbench and set about it with the angle grinder. After a couple of minutes it went "pop" and proceeded to spit bits of plastic all over the place. I opened it up and more bits fell out. It didn't work any more. And it was (typically) 13 months old and I had no receipt, having thrown it out the previous month... I bought a new big yellow one (as much as funds would allow anyway)from the conveniently newly-opened local Machine Mart and it breezed through the rest of the stripping with no bother at all. I didn't take all the old paint off (no point really), just the stuff with rust near it and the nasty flaky stuff.

I have given one side of the subframe a good coat of Hammerite and will flip it over and do the other side next.

I also managed to get the handbrake cable assembly apart (had to resort to Dremel-ing off the nut which had rusted solid). This will be de-rusted, painted and reconditioned with new stainless bolts etc.

Subframe before stripping



Angle Grinder went pop...



.. to be replaced by a big heavy duty yellow one



Subframe stripped...



...and painted



Handbrake assembly finally apart. Very rusty.

[MrBounce]

It was time to try to get the Midas out of the garage. Normally this would have meant getting it back on its wheels, but I had a secret weapon called Shaun. He had liberated an old trolley cage from his work (due to be scrapped) and cut the handles off. This gave us a lovely flat platform and a very sturdy set of wheels. The question was how to get the bodyshell on to it. Given that the pair of us would give a few rugby forwards a good test, it really was no problem at all. One at each end and lift. It really was that light.

We lined up the trolley, lifted up the rear end and slid it under, then removed all the axle stands. We then pushed it out into the evening sunlight and lined it up so it sat on the trolley better. I swept out the garage and then we pushed it back in. Brilliant!

The Midas trolley, as modelled by Fred, next door's large Tabby.



Lining it up (Shaun posing)



Out on the drive, having been lowered into place properly.



And back in the garage. If I need it moved I just push it out of the way!

[MrBounce]

I had a little thought about the captive bolts for the damper mounts and hated the single washer idea that Midas came up with. Instead I have used much heavier gauge metal (it was once part of the bracket that the old oil cooler was mounted to) and after some careful measuring made 2 small brackets, each with 2 holes in for the bolts. I then went round to my friend Mike's house and welded in some bolts to make them captive. One of them isn't that great (not enough gas) but once it's in place no-one's gonna see it so I don't care! I have checked and I can (just about!) get them into place via the tower bolt holes in the crossmember.

I then realised just how disgustingly dirty the poor little car had become whilst in the garage so I pushed it out onto the driveway and gave it (and the disgusting heater pipes) a blast with my newly acquired Karcher Pressure Washer (total cost: free). It's come up relatively clean too. The pipes look a bit different - there's no dirt on them now! Once dry (ater a few days baking in the garage...) I hoovered it out. It's a bit cleaner, but not much...

I had a look at my newly machined engine bits. I will start putting it together once I get my hands on a decent camshaft (awaiting funds) and new oil pump amongst other things. In the meantime it will be safely wrapped and dry-stored.

The other door panel was finally removed (now I could actually get to the passenger side of the car) and unsurprisingly there were problems. That old chestnut of the stuck rusty screws reared its ugly head again. This time it was the window winder screw and one of the small screws holding the panel on. I was able to Dremel a slot in the small screw to get a flatblade screwdriver on it which was no problem, but the winder screw was not budging. So I drilled it out. It may take a bit of work to get the stub out, but given the state of the panel holding the winder gear in place, I might convert to electric winders if I can find something small enough to fit.

I continued to look around the car to see if there was anything else to remove; there was an exhaust hanger on the rear valance which was a bit stubborn and the interior wiring loom. This has been butchered a bit - there were strange soldered bits on it with no insulation. I am undecided whether to use this or make a new one from a Mini loom. It all depends how usable it turns out to be.

Captive bolts on brackets. These have now been painted.



Dirty shell



Filthy Pipes



Clean(er) shell...



...and pipes



Beautiful block



+020 pistons fitted to balanced rods



Valves & Springs



Big Valve Head



Door Panel Off



Awful state of window winder panel



Exhaust hanger finally off; this was binned...



Butchered loom. Time to replace or just repair and insulate?

Edited by MrBounce, 24 October 2012 - 09:13 PM.

[charie t]

repair it. Get some heat shrink, and with some neat soldering you'll never know it was there

[MrBounce]

On Thursday (which is when I usually go over to my friend Mike's to help him with his various projects) I had Mike over to see if he could help with my badly fitting doors. He has a few years' experience working in a bodyshop and I have come to the conclusion that bodyshop fitters are a resourceful lot, often able to come up with leftfield solutions dependant on the tools to hand. My problem was that the frames stuck out at the top, and from what he could see, they would not easily be rectified by internal adjustment.

No, they needed to be pushed in, but how? The solution was simple, but hopefully effective. Having seen in the bodyshop how a badly sealing Mini door frame can be gentle persuaded into place by gentle but effective bending, we looped a ratchet strap around the whole shell. We spaced the door frames with wood and placed some more wood over the window frames. The strap has been tightened and we will see how well it responds over the weekend. It might not work, but if it does, then problem solved for very little effort! The poor little thing looks like it's wearing a dental brace...

I also took a look at the cylinder head as I realised that being a former Metro head, it didn't have the heater take-off drilled out. So out came the drill and the hoover - I made a nice hole while simultaneously hoovering up the bits so they couldn't go anywhere they shouldn't.

Doors strapped up



Wood spacer & frame protector



I needed this like a hole in the head...



...so I made one

[james94]

i want one <3

[MrBounce]

Ok, other than a massive tidy-up in the garage (and getting my bike roadworthy so I can start cycling to work), I have managed to do some more stuff. I had a chat with Mike about the remains of the steady bar mount on the front subframe and how they're always breaking. We both came up with the solution of a heavy duty bit of metal bolted to the subframe. I gave him a template and he knocked up something out out decent thick steel during his lunch break - top man. However, there is a bit of an issue with clearance - it's all a bit tight in there - so rather than bolt it in I may instead further my distinctively novice welding skills next time I am over at his.

I spent a good hour cleaning up more brackets and suspension bits; it is now my sole aim in life to make sure that the awful gold Hammerite is banished from this world forever. Horrible stuff.

I also took the ratchet strap off the car to check how the tension had dealt with the protruding door frames. It had done surprisingly well - there's a lot less gap now. The doors will still need a little fettling to fit properly but it is a massive improvement.

Heavy duty steady bar bracket in the making. May be welded in place rather than bolted.



Cleaned brackets & suspension parts awaiting recon and/or fresh paint.



Marked improvement on nearside door frame...



...and on offside too.

[Ethel]

Tip: The tops of the glass frames are particularly good a letting the rain in. Water can drain off the roof onto them. Because they lean inwards the water is directed onto the door seals and will find any spot where the seal is less than perfect. Some have stuck self adhesive trim on the roof edge to channel draining water away from the doors, other have stuck mouldings on the inside of the door glass frame to make it higher so the water runs around it instead of onto the door seals. I don't know what door seals you have, but it's better to hunt in the scrappers for some with a moulded in right angle (for the top rear corner of the door aperture) than a length buy rubber seal off a roll.

[MrBounce]

Haven't done that much recently (been working hard and also enjoying the nice weather); managed to find a new-old stock Allegro headlight on eBay although I have also found someone who is selling new-old stock Halogen Bedford Rascal Lights. They are the same size so I may invest in a couple of them when funds allow.

I have been thinking about the ridiculous bolts that held in the pedalbox. These had been cut and ground down to within an inch of their lives and were a nightmare to undo/remove as they sit just under the front bulkhead/crossmember. What was needed here was a plate with captive bolts. So I dug around the bits box and found a broken brake disc shield. Some, hacksawing, hammering and bit of vice work had a plate bent into shape. I took it over to Mike's and welded the bolts in place. It's not pretty, but once again no-one's going to see it so I gave it a coat of paint along with all the other bits that needed it.

I have finally got round to removing the bracket for the steering column as well. This was no fun as the bolts had been sat below a leaking windscreen for a number of years and had turned into rusty amorphous blobs. I managed to undo the nut on one whereas the other required more brutal methods, namely Molegrips and a hammer (NOT a Dremel for once!). Everything will be cleaned up and reconditioned. You'll be pleased to know I have put the bolts in the bin.

Finally the petrol tank: Having failed to find a used tank at a realistic price, I am looking to have mine repaired. I am led to believe there is a place fairly nearby who can weld tank seams, so this will be on my list of things to try first. I also removed the sender unit, as I was sure it was probably past its best. Amazingly, it wasn't as bad as I'd expected, but it was still pretty grotty, especially the electrical contacts. Time for a new one.

New-old stock Allegro headlight; a snip at £9.



First coat of paint for more suspension parts & brackets



Steering column bracket, spacers and bolts. Now cleaned and ready to be re-used.



Pedalbox captive bolt plate - made from an old disc shield!



Sender unit removed from tank. Doesn't look pretty...

[MrBounce]

Haven't done a massive amount recently due to being too much of a social animal amongst other things, but have managed to get a couple of things sorted. I have also been painted numerous brackets etc which is not the most interesting thing to either write about or take photos of...

The revised steady bar mount at the front of the subframe is now complete (except the paint!). Mike was able to weld up the steel template during his break at work due to the works welder having much better penetration. I don't quite know what the thickness is not having measured it, but I believe it is what ships are made of. It is also very hard. I don't have a mains drill (as I don't do much drilling!) but I went through 2 drill batteries before I had completed the 5 holes I needed...

I then was able to grind off the remains of the old bracket on the subframe (somewhat puny in comparison) and test-bolted everything up. It all fitted beautifully. It's now being painted.

The handbrake bar is not in such good shape. It is extremely bent and as a result trying to cut a new thread on it resulted in disaster. I will have to sort a new one, but then again a bit of straight circular bar with some thread on it should not be too difficult to sort.

The final job I've sorted was to scare myself. I walked around the car armed with a Sharpie pen and drew round everywhere that needs some sort of attention. My car now looks a bit like a Dalmation. Oh dear.

Old subframe steady bar mount - mid-grind.



2 drill batteries used and still not through!!



Test fit and solid as a big tough metal thing. I will be replacing these bolts & nuts...



Handbrake bar. A bit more bent than I first thought.



All the dodgy bits outlined. Too many...

[MrBounce]

Have not been out into the garage much recently due to mainly not having the parts or equipment to do stuff, nor the folding stuff either. Saving for a holiday takes too much car money!

I have however come to the decision that the single line brake system needs upgrading. The Master Cylinder that was on the car when I bought it would have needed a full rebuild anyway so it seemed a perfect time to upgrade. I bought a "Yellow Tag" item for an 80s Mini - I had 3 Minis with this set-up (with 8.4" discs and no servo) and they all had excellent brakes.

However, a trial fitting showed up a problem: it was too tall. The new Master Cylinder stands 193mm above the bracket it sits on, and I had roughly 184mm to play with. I had to options: get a smaller Master Cylinder or find some way of making it fit. Not one to mess about, I put a small blob of grease on to its highest point and carefully shut the bonnet. This then left a mark on the "stiffening ribs" which was where it was fouling. The ribs are about 12-15mm so I marked out in chalk where I needed to cut then cracked on with the Dremel. A couple of small adjustments and some tidying up and all fitted perfectly. I will be able to finish it off properly once I get some fibreglass matting & resin. I will also sort out a front to rear proportioning valve for the bulkhead.

New Master Cylinder - needs a clean. And it doesn't fit properly...



A blob of grease showed exactly where it wouldn't fit.



Chalk: ideal for showing where you need to cut on a black background...



There's plenty of clearance now!