740 replies to this topic

[MrBounce]

Ok, so it's a Bank Holiday. And once the usual family visiting was done with (Hi Mum & Dad by the way...), it was garage time once more. This meant removing the radius arms from the beam and having a closer look. It was of course, raining, but one benefit of an up-and-over garage door is that provided the wind is not blowing into the garage, it makes a really good umbrella!

First job was to remove the handbrake cables and their arms. The offside split pin offered no resistance at all, sliding neatly out and allowing me to disconnect everything really easily. The nearside of course was anything but straightforward. The split pin snapped, and everything was seized solid. A quick squirt of WD40, some judicious use of MC Hammer and everything was out. The cable appears to be in pretty good nick - I reckon previous owner Andy had already replaced it, and the nearside had been parked over or near grass as most things on that side are so corroded.

There are mounting brackets for the arms which bolt through the beam, but before I could get started on these, I needed to undo the brake hoses which bolted through some other brackets on the beam itself. Once again, offside was no problem. Nearside? Yup, seized solid. After a couple of attempts resulted in a rounded off nut, I saved time by cutting through it, despite it actually looking in fairly good condition. I have new ones anyway. I then removed the grease nipples from the radius arms, and made sure the end bolts undid. Amazingly, each and every one was a piece of cake. So, once these were finger-tight, I then undid the bolts holding the brackets to the beam, undid the inner nut on each arm and used gravity to slide them off.

I put the beam on the bench (taking timeout with a pair of Molegrips and a spanner to remove the remains of that poxy brake hose) and did a more detailed inspection. Out came the screwdriver for an MOT-tester-style prod and poke. Short of some surface rust and some remains of paint (Midas' example of rustproofing??), there was absolutley nothing wrong with it. Result! So it was out with the wire wheel to clean off most of the grime and rust, with the aim to use rust remover gel on the bits I can't get to (by the brackets) then give it a decent coat of Hammerite. I am loving this as things are starting to go well again

Disconnecting the handbrake cable



Cable off



1st brake hose easy...



...2nd one not. Cutters!



Nearside off...



...and Offside too.



Beam on bench...



...and the other side



During cleaning



And this is the worst bit. Screwdriver tapping test showed it to be solid.

[MrBounce]

As I had an hour or two to spare I thought I would strip and have a close look at the radius arms. How hard could it be??? I started with the nearside.

First up, I needed to get rid of the rubber bush and metal insert left behind on the stub axle when removing the coilover. A stanley knife dealt with the rubber part, and a soaking of WD40 followed by some swearing and severe use of a pair of molegrips eventually saw it removed and in the bin. It seemed that the rest would be plain sailing. Of course it wasn't.

Drum off? Check. Handbrake Arm removed? Check. Hub cover prised off? Check. Castellated nut removed? (which had no split pin!!) Check. Hub removed? Check. Bearing off with hub? Check...ish. Half of it was left behind on the stub. Did it want to come off? Nope. Seized solid. Due to the lack of a suitable puller, I had to think laterally or it was staying there and the backplate would not come off. Using a pair of side cutters, I snipped the cage surrounding the bearing and threw all the moving parts away. I then applied heat from a blowtorch, following this up with my trusty molegrips to try to get the thing to move. it did, just. A little more movement, then I released the molegrips and off it slid, leaving no damage to the stub axle. At least I have two new wheel bearings in the garage...

The rest of the arm was easily stripped; I am debating whether to just chop them in for a pair of exchange arms as although they seem ok and were well greased, I am unsure of their history. Plus they're a bit rusty. For the sake of £35-40 odd each, it seems a no brainer.

Arm on bench



Remains of the bush succumbing to the power of Molegrips!



Almost completely stripped after the nightmare of the stuck bearing (no photos as I was ANGRY! )



Bumpstop removed. Looks a bit dead. These are the hydrolastic bumpstops as denoted by their number 21A1520. Not sure what they're for as they're not in the build manual anywhere...




Knackered brake cylinder with pipe still attached. It would NOT undo. Time for the bin...

Edited by MrBounce, 09 April 2012 - 07:22 PM.

[rsroadkilla]

Man I bet you cant wait to start putting shiny bits back on it!!!!

I remember when I done the Freestyle, just the process of fitting new bearings done wonders for the motivation! New, smooth bearings... ahhhhhhh!!!!

[MrBounce]

Bit of a frustrating day today. I took ages doing stuff, but it actually looks like I have achieved very little. If everything I have done today hadn't been rusted to the car, it probably would've taken 3 mins, not the 3 hours I spent. That said a lot of time was spent simply tidying up the garage and just looking over the car.

Most of the time was spent removing old bolts etc. I won't bore you with the ins and outs of this as I'm sure you've got better things to do than read about me struggling for ages with rusty stuff. I have finally managed to remove one of the seatbelt stalks though; I need to drill out a rivet to make the other side easier: it is rusted solid - it's going to take a fair bit of brute force and ignorance to actually shift it.

Once I had had enough of trying to remove old bolts etc, I had a long look under the bonnet; I am aiming to remove the subframe in due course and it appears that previous owner Andy has done a fair bit of work for me already. There are polybushes everywhere (including the bottom arm pins and subframe rear mounts), but there are a few bits missing. The brake pipes are one example; a lot of it doesn't make too much sense to me. There's a pipe which leaves the top of the master cylinder, goes all the way past the shock absorber mount then doubles back on itself to the splitter. Why not just go straight to it? Then there is also a small pipe from the top of the splitter which goes up and over and stops at a male connection end. I am assuming that this is supposed to somehow then connect to the pipe which clips in at the front of the subframe - however there are no unions where the brake pipes go to the calipers. I would appreciate some assistance here as every brake system I have looked at before has been complete!

There are also two weird "stubs" sticking out from the bulkhead (not quite central) and I have absolutely NO idea what these are for. Any suggestions because I am stumped.

I also removed the chassis plate and put it in a safe place. It seems it was once on the other side of the car. Curious.

Seat belt stalk finally out. Bolt will be binned!



Polybushes showing on lower arm pins. That gold paint is gonna have to go!



WHAT the hell are these???



Curious brake pipe goes nowhere then comes back on itself. Why?



Small pipe goes into thin air.



Chassis plate removed from the right...



...but obviously used to live on the left. Can anyone clarify why?

[Midas Mk1]

My dad's has the Chassis Plate on the passenger side, not sure why yours would have been moved?

Projects looking good

Edited by Midas Mk1, 29 April 2012 - 08:31 PM.

[MrBounce]

Whilst I was waiting for my new angle grinder-mounted wire brush to arrive (having killed the last one), I took the disgusting rear light lenses and the front sidelights/indicators and decided to give them a really good clean. Normally in this situation I would bung them in a dishwasher, but a) we don't have one and b) I am not 100% sure my colleagues at work would be happy with me if they found car parts in with their much-used coffee mugs. So I made myself very popular with Mrs Bounce and did the washing-up. With added bits. They have come up beautifully. Fairy Liquid: cleans your light clusters wonderfully and gives you baby soft hands...

I then turned my attention to the sunroof frame. This was covered in horrible mastic-type stuff and also the remains of whatever rubber-based seal & glue was used. Having scraped the mastic off, not much was shifting the sealant & rubber so I had to try many evil concoctions that I had in stock, eventually settling on a good soaking in WD40! It's now clear of all the gunk. I have given the lip underneath a good clean up using my old mate the Dremel with a sanding attachment. It can now wait until eveything gets refitted before I do anything else to it.

The wire brush arrived so I quickly gave the brake backplates a clean-up and also stripped the bad paint from the beam (I really wasn't happy with how I had painted it before). I then gave these a good wipe down with white spirit and sprayed them with Hammerite.

It was time for that final seatbelt stalk to come out. It was clear that no amount of trying to use spanners or sockets was going to work, so I reached into the Dremel toolbox and pulled out the "reinforced" cutting disc. I am going to have to get some more of these! They're amazing! Considering that the bolts used for seatbelts are generally high tensile, it went through without too much effort (although it still took me 5 minutes to grind the bolt head off!). With the stub of the bolt in the vice and a pair of Molegrips on the captive nut on the plate I was able to remove it. I gave both plates a good clean with the wire brush attachment and have hammerited them. They'll get a second coat soon, then I will give the threads a tap to make sure they're clean and paint-free.

I also did the same with the plates where the seatbelts themselves attached to. They were disgustingly filthy with a good deal of surface rust underneath. They are now black, courtesy of the spray can!

I also cleaned up the new suspension parts I have; a nice chap on the Mini Forum was giving away loads of stuff so I managed to blag a pair of 1.5 degree negative camber bottom arms, some adjustable tie-bars and lower arm pins. Cheers Kieran!

Dead wire brush attachment



"Just doing the washing-up sweetie!"



My kind of draining board



Clean again!



Removing sunroof gunk (see middle of workbench)



Now much better on the bottom...



...and on the top



Backplates cleaned up prior to paint



And now sprayed along with the beam



Dremel brutally cuts!



Seatbelt stalk spreader plates looking much healthier



Seatbelt spreader mounts. One before, one after. Amazing what a bit of elbow grease can do (especially with power tools!)



New suspension bits - free!

Edited by MrBounce, 06 May 2012 - 09:06 PM.

[MrBounce]

I have given up waiting for a machine shop which clearly has bigger fish to fry than my rebore, crank polish and balance (they never bothered to call back with a quote in other words...) I spoke to a very good friend of mine who builds SS100 & C-type Jag replicas for a living and he put me in touch with a very pleasant gentleman. He is very much "old school" in that he has a house in the country with a massive engineering shed in the garden where he does his work. Almost my dream house... Having had a lovely chat to him he has taken all the engine parts and will sort what I need over the next few weeks as I told him I was in no rush.

Back in the garage though, it has been a frustrating time. Once more the ugly spectre of seized rusty bolts has raised its evil head and I spent the best part of 3 hours trying to remove 3 bolts. No, REALLY. They were three of the four bolts through the bottom of the dash that hold the brackets for the heater. What should have been a simple 5 minute job with two 7/16" spanners was at first thwarted by the fact that the top of the bolts (and washers) had rusted together to form an amorphous blob of what once was metal. And of course trying to undo the nut just turned the blobs. Because of the angle they were at, I could not get the Dremel in there to cut it off flush. So I spent WAY too long cutting little bits of the bolt heads off before eventually chiselling the rest off. Then the Dremel died. The switch has killed itself. For the price of a new switch I can almost get a new Dremel; I will probably do that then sell the old one on ebay as "Spares or Repair". I really can't be bothered to try to repair it. Plus it was starting to sound a bit rough...

I dug out the engine front plate from the spares box as I remembered it REALLY needed a clean. Several years of sitting about in a box meant it was still covered in bits of old gasket sealant, some remains of the gaskets and a large amount of surface rust. I gave it a going over first with the scraper to get the gasket & sealant off, then with the wire brush attachment to remove the rust. I also cleaned the threads for the timing cover as they were full of all sorts of crud.

Finally I spent a bit of time painting the rear beam and a few brackets with Hammerite, as well as giving the brake backplates another spray coating. Note to self: when cleaning your brush with white spirit, do not drip it on the graze on your hand. Ow...

Poxy heater bracket bolts: 3 out, one to go... (I had already thrown the other one away!!)



Beam & brackets in the process of drying.



Brake backplates after a second coat



Engine front plate after a damn good clean

[MrBounce]

After much beer, lazing around by the pool and too much food in Fuerteventura, a bank holiday beckoned and it was time to get into the Manroom again.

I had received a parcel through the post: a new Dremel. I instantly put it to good use to get rid of the 5 bolts that were still left to remove; one from the heater and 4 in the floor where the old subframe used to sit. I found out that there was an easier way to remove them rather than cutting them off: Grind away with the Dremel until the bolt gets hot, then twist it out with pliers as the fibreglass will be warmed suitably to allow it to move. Made my job a lot easier, though it did stink a bit...

I turned my attention to the rusty-looking bias valve which was fitted to the beam. It had still contained brake fluid when I removed it and a quick clean-up revealed that it was surface rust only. I have covered the unions and put it to one side to be painted in due course.

After taking the bonnet off, I noticed that it still had plenty of insulation/soundproofing/heat-proofing stuff on the underside. This was over 30 years old and was hard and brittle. It was also stuck to the bonnet with the strongest glue known to mankind. It took me the best part of a morning to remove it all, with the help of a chef's blowtorch (not as brutal as one you would get from B&Q - I don't have a heat gun) and a scraper. The glue remover that my Father-in-law supplied was evil personified but whatever it was, it got the old glue off easily when applied. I also made a point of removing the bonnet hinge pins as well as the clasp, giving them all a good clean-up in preparation for paint sometime in the future.

Turning my attention to under the bonnet, I decided I was going to cut off the strange "pins" that appeared to be badly fitted close to where the carb sits. They were off centre and didn't appear to serve any purpose. If they turned out to be important they could always be re-added and relocated. They were odd things. They were some sort of plastic outer with a metal post (bolt?) in the centre. They looked like a battery terminal but weren't. Maybe they were some sort of earthing point? I guess I will never know! I have cleaned up the area where they once were and with a small amount of work it will look factory fresh.

Still under the bonnet it time to remove the final bit of brake pipework and get started on the pedal box. After a squirt of WD40, the unions on the splitter undid easily and that was cleaned up. I have kept the pipes for reference purposes when it all goes back together. When I came to remove the pedal box, I found that it is rather badly situated and I may need to modify it slightly. The bolts are just below the main crossmember and as such have been cut about so that they will fit. Just over half a washer and an angled nut does not inspire much confidence. I wondered why it was so difficult to hang a spanner on it. I used Molegrips in the end. Amazingly everything undid nice and easily (must have been all the WD40 I had been regularly feeding it!) and I soon had the pedalbox on the bench.

It was not pretty. There was a lot of rust on it. First thing was first - I had to get it apart. So I covered it in penetrating oil and left it overnight. After a good nights' soaking in 3 in 1 I was able to get the centre pin which the pedals hang on out with a LOT of effort (hammer, molegrips, brute force). I need to give the shaft a bit of a going over with some emery cloth to make sure it doesn't get stuck again before refitting it. I have recut all the threads I can, then attacked the whole lot with the wire brush and Dremel to clean it all up. They now have a coat of paint and look an awful lot better than before!

Dremel! For only £10 more than a new switch too :)



Brake bias valve now looks healthier: saved myself £70-odd...



Bolts out. At last!



Bonnet covered in nasty soundproofing.



Midway through stripping



All done - there was a lot.



Rusty hinge pins

Edited by MrBounce, 05 June 2012 - 09:27 PM.

[MrBounce]

All cleaned up



Weird post thingy removed...



...which looks like this



Carb area cleaned up.



Brake splitter now clean



Cut about bolt holding the pedal box in place



Pedal box out



In bits on the bench



Thread cleaned up - pin shaft needs work though



All cleaned...



..and painted.

[Ethel]

Some interesting little mods to the pedals, flipping the foot pads upside down is crafty.

[MrBounce]

Hubba Hubba Hubba



New pistons bought from Mini Spares and given to the man with the amazing shed. All the machining should be done within a couple of weeks. Very excited!

[MrBounce]

Decided to do some more stuff in the Manroom so dug out the clutch cover and gave it a deep clean in the parts washer. This had been fitted to the spare engine that had come with the project. The oil seal had failed on this and there was caked-on oily grime all over the inside of the cover. 20 minutes' work had removed the worst, and having left it to dry I cracked on with removing everything to check whether it was reusable. The clutch arm was stiff, but I think this is more down to not being used for a VERY long time. There was all sorts of gunge and dirt but nothing had got into the actual mechanism. A bit of penetrating oil had it all apart and I reckon the arm, plunger & release bearing are all good to go again. Success!

After this, I decided that the spare pair of axle stands had been hanging around under workbench for too long. It was time to remove the front subframe. So I started undoing the bolts on the rear mountings. I say "undo" - there were no nuts on them!! I simply pushed them through into the cabin. I also thought that loosening the hub nuts whilst the car was still on its wheels would be a good plan. The nearside one had no split pin at all and was finger tight, but I couldn't get the socket on the offside one. It had been butchered beyond all recognition, and I have no idea why. Still, a bigger socket had no issues with it, so it'll be something else from this car that goes straight in the bin.The tower bolts came out next. Nice and easy, with no need for big extension bars or WD40. Then the front mounts, again, not complicated at all, just two 1/2" spanners. I pushed the shocks off their mountings then undid the two track-rod ends.

Using the trolley jack and a nice large bit of wood, up came the car and down stayed the subframe. It sounds as easy as that, although it did take a bit of time as I was on my own and being careful! So the Midas now sits on bits of wood atop four axle stands. The suspension bits all seem to be recent and/or reconditioned but are all painted in a rather grim gold shade of Hammerite. There are yellow poly bushes in abundance (including the rear mounts), and the bottom mounts for the tower bolts are made by Deflex so should be good enough to go again. I am not so sure about the others... The shocks are garbage, and the subframe is missing the bracket for the steady bar (broken off as usual). The steering rack looks fairly new. I will have to inspect it in due course... It is very obvious where the old-style subframe used to fit. The holes in the floor need filling.

Disgusting clutch cover after a clean (it was virtually all black).



Now in bits - more cleaning required.



Butchered hub nut



Tower bolts out



Subframe out! My car's got no wheels on it!



Deflex bushes - they'll go again.



Good looking steering rack - doubt it's seen the road in anger. Poly rear mounts very visible on the floor.



Broken bracket. I must learn to weld...



Shocks fit for the bin.

[charie t]

start putting it back together already
Nice work though

[MrBounce]

I finished off cleaning up the clutch components. The arm was in pretty good nick apart from the grime on it; everything went through the parts washer until it was completely clean. I then fell over the subframe, so decided to do something about it. Without having a large mate to hand, I part lifted it with the trolley jack and then slid it on to the workbench. Usually I don't have too many issues with lifting subframes on their own, but this wasn't bare - it had everything including driveshafts and a pair of vented discs fitted, so it was a bit of a handful.

The driveshafts were the first to go - I popped off the pot joints and slid the shafts out of the subframe having pushed them throught the hubs. No problems, and aside from being a bit rusty in places they look in pretty good nick. I'll inspect the cvs at a later date and replace if necessary, but all the boots will be renewed as a matter of course.

Then I moved my attention to the hubs. And the fact I didn't have a balljoint splitter... Nevermind - nothing a few gentle clouts from MC hammer couldn't sort. At least on one side anyway. The other side was not moving at all. I resorted to the blowtorch, and eventually I used the power of gravity to get it off. It appears that the nearside top arm is seized, so that's something that will need attention. The bearings look good though.

I moved on to the bottom arms and tie-bars. There was no problem with these at all; everything came apart easily and the only bad thing about them was the strange mixture of standard and poly bushes and the fact that they were covered in that revolting gold Hammerite... The front mounts looked very used which was a bit odd - why put new bits on only half the car???

Cleaned up clutch arm. Ready for paint and it'll go again.



Subframe on bench. Bloody heavy as I found out...



Driveshafts out



Hubs on bench. New balljoints required. And NEW PAINT PLEASE!!



Bumpstops look almost new.



Knackered looking teardrop mounts



Tiebars and bottom arms with odd bushes and more of that evil paint.

[MrBounce]

This morning saw me attack the discs that came off the car. The discs themselves are Metro Turbo vented items which I doubt have ever been used on the road. However, several years of standing have left them looking rather rusty. I might have a use for the drive flanges however, so I needed to get them off. I left them soaking in penetrating oil overnight, then attacked them using a block of wood and a mallet. One disc was fine, parting company with the flange after 3 hits. The other however, was more stubborn than a Tory MP on Question Time. After a fair few minutes of clouting, it did eventually come off.

I then turned my attention to the evil paint on the suspension arms. It HAD to go. Luckily I have a tool for this and spent a busy and extremely loud morning removing all the paint. I was left with a small pile of paint dust and some shinier looking components, which I will repaint in due course.

Flanges finally off and on the bench.



That paint has GOT to go...



The right tool for the job.



Paint dust (there's more on the floor and workbench)



The stripped arms. Much improved!