762 replies to this topic

[Udo]

So with transfer housing and drop gears there it still makes the noise/stops turning but not when you remove them?

 

Have you got a mix of A and A+ perhaps or incorrect ratios so not meshing?

[MrBounce]

Housing's off and there were 3 small pieces of metal that fell out. The gears mesh beautifully so it's definitely not that. Thinking it's something to do with the bearing race in the housing. New bearing on the first motion gear (as supplied by Guessworks) and the race in the housing is supposed to be new which I doubt. I don't know where the metal bits come from though. I have emailed Mr Guess to ask his advice.

 

What fell out

 

 

And a closer look:

 

[MrBounce]

Well, I have found the cause of the clunk and the reasons behind it. The bearing on the nose of the first motion shaft did not mesh properly with the race in the clutch housing. As a result, when the housing was on, the bearing was out under unnecessary strain and parts of it have broken up. Old race + new bearing = unhappy marriage. My fault entirely. A new bearing has been ordered - now I will need to get my hands on a heavy duty blowtorch, a puller and a pair of circlip pliers. All things I don't have to hand.

 

As a result, I have mostly been preventing myself from burning the garage down this week...

[MrBounce]

It's been a while since I went into the Manroom to do anything as I figured the best thing to do was to walk away until I felt like not smashing the place up. I now have my mojo back so it's time to get back in there!

Armed with circlip pliers, a big blowtorch and a new bearing amongst other things, I tentatively opened the door. I'd already managed to remove the clip from the housing, so using an educational video from Guessworks, I heated the housing with the blowtorch for ten minutes then picked it up and smacked it down on a flat piece of wood. It worked first time. Mojo definitely returning. I followed this up with removing the circlip on the bearing and pulling it off the first motion shaft. It was pretty obvious what had happened. The rear of the bearing had broken up and the bits I had found when I'd taken the engine apart were from there. I'll replace the bearing and race next time but I want to clean everything properly first. I have also started work on spreader plates for the mounts for the rear of the front subframe.

Bearing race out - so chuffed that this worked first time!



Damaged bearing almost off...



...and showing the full extent of the damage. So glad I didn't try to start this engine!

[Udo]

Glad to see you've got back on this, no doubt have a chat on the 1st.

[xrocketengineer]

Great to know you solved the mystery and that you are back on track.

[MrBounce]

I had an unexpected couple of hours off today, so jumped at the chance to get into the garage and finish off the engine (again). I had already drifted in the new bearing race into the clutch housing, so that left the new bearing on the first motion gear. This went on with a little gentle persuasion and a new circlip. Having given everything a good clean, I added a new clutch oil seal and once again wrapped up the primary gear. The housing was a bit tight on the dowels so I gave it a little adjustment courtesy of a file, then slid it on with no problem. Then it was simply a matter of once again chucking on the backplate, clutch, flywheel and pressure plate, finishing off with the wok. I have given the engine a good turn and it doesn't clonk anymore. Good!

I also managed to find time to knock up a couple of spreader plates for the front subframe rear mounts - these will need to be tidied up but I can do that on Tink's bench grinder later this week. I'll then give them a coat of paint.

My final job was disassembling the brake master cylinder prior to using a rebuild kit. After cutting through the roll pin with the Dremel I noticed that the reservoir was damaged - it looks like the pin was once pushed into the side of the reservoir. Gotta love eBay... Thanks to a wonderful Mini Forum member, a replacement is on its way. Thanks Phil!

New bearing fitted.



Clutch housing on after a short battle.



Clutch, flywheel & pressure plate back on.



Wok tidies everything up nicely.



The engine in all its glory. Again...



Spreader plates cut and drilled, awaiting tidying before paint.



Master cylinder partially dismantled...



...currently on hold because of a damaged reservoir. Whoop whoop.

Edited by MrBounce, 06 January 2015 - 09:54 PM.

[Ben_O]

How did you get the pins out of the master cylinder?

 

i tried and it felt like it was going to break into a kazillion bits

[MrBounce]

Dremel with small cutting disc down the side of the lugs. Be very careful... (not that it now matters in this case...)

Edited by MrBounce, 07 January 2015 - 12:44 PM.

[MrBounce]

Had some more time so went into the Manroom to get started on the brake master cylinder. I wasn't overly optimistic having seen the state of it underneath the rubber boot. There was a bit of surface rust and the piston didn't seem to move much, but the circlip came out easily enough. The piston however, needed more persuasion. A few energetic taps on a plank of wood saw it finally on the move. Given the horrible black brake fluid that came out, I think it had been sat for a hell of a long time, not just the few months that it was in my garage.

That said, the state of the bore was absolutely fine - I couldn't see any scoring or rust. Have bunged up all the holes using a combination of old brake pipes and grommets, I gave the main body of the cylinder a really good clean with the wire brush, the primed and painted it in satin black. I will reassemble next time.

Hmmm. This doesn't look too promising...



All apart. There was nasty black brake fluid in there. Yuck.



Cleaned up and grommeted.



Satin black. Works nicely.

[MrBounce]

I have had a frustrating day. Not because things have gone wrong particularly; it's just that I have had issues being unable to find stuff I thought I had. I am waiting on some red rubber grease to arrive so I can finish off my master cylinder. That's been put on the back burner. Instead I thought I'd turn my attention to the dashboard area. When I first bought the car I tore out the old dashboard, intent on building something different. I am still doing just that, but I will be using a modified version of the original dash cover (which was a bit awful...). I did however cut out the supports to it so these will need reinstating. The first thing I needed to do was to make up some basic fibreglass panels to then be pieced together. I decided that the easiest way to do the long top dash rail would be to use the metal bar that was once part of the vent system and cover it with tape and card so I could use it as a template. So after several minutes' cutting and taping, I couldn't find any fibreglass or resin. Great.

 

I then put one of my Christmas prezzies to good use and starting sanding the main dash cover with my new mouse sander. I did this with a view to P40-ing any imperfections afterwards. I want to use as little filler as possible as of course I will be cutting holes in it, and then hopefully using a crackle finish paint. So I spent a while sanding and cleaning it ready for the nest application of P40. Which I also can't find. So I will now have to order both some resin and some P40, which means I will probably find both as soon as they arrive. Whoop whoop.

 

Taped-up metal bar prior to the applicant of non-existent fibreglass.

 

 

Dash cover before hitting it with the mouse.

 

 

And cleaned, ready for the application of non-existent P40. Nuts.

 

[MrBounce]

I had a small (and I mean small!) packet in the post containing my 18g pot of red rubber grease (slightly bigger than a £2 coin!!). I had also grabbed a full propane gas cylinder on the way home from work so I could use my heater - it's difficult to work in the garage when you can't feel your hands.

 

It was time to finish off the master cylinder. I cleaned everything up using brake cleaner then proceeded to remove the old seals and the washer from the secondary piston. The seals were a bit stubborn (probably the originals) but a bit of persuasion with a tiny screwdriver saw them off. The new seals were surprisingly easy to fit; I made sure that they went on the right way up. Then it was back into the main body with the secondary piston - it was pushed up as far as possible and the locking pin was pushed in to stop it falling out again. A pair of new seals went onto the outside where the reservoir mounts with a bit more red grease. The primary piston was even easier. I applied red grease as directed & again pushed it fully home. It was a bit fiddly getting the circlip in but after a couple of quid in the swear box (only kidding - I don't have one - I'd never be able to afford any parts...), in it popped. More red grease and the main seal went on. Finally, I clipped in the reservoir and tapped in the roll pin with a smear of copper slip. Aside from a bit of tidying and new brake pipes to be fitted, it's done. And I am a happy boy - Mojo is back in room!

 

Secondary (top) piston removed and seals off.

 

 

All the insides done, new main seal on the bottom.

 

 

Finished - all it needs are new brake pipes and a car to attach it to...

 

[MrBounce]

I received both my new fibreglass resin and tub of P40 in the post then promptly found my other ones round at Tink's. Still, I would've need more anyway...

 

I need to modify my top rail template as the dash itself is 6cm wider. Nothing a bit of wood and judicious use of parcel tape couldn't cure. Once cured, the new rail was a bit flimsy so I have added more fibreglass as well as some strips of metal. I will then screw it to the sides before fibreglassing the sides and adding some upright supports. The dashboard was simpler - I just gave it a skim of P40 to deal with all the holes and imperfections. There are always some that I will have missed, but one skim is never enough... More to follow.

 

Template full of resin & csm.

 

 

Beefing it up with more resin, csm & metal.

 

 

Dash after skim of P40. Smoothness will follow...

 

[Udo]

Typical you find them when new bought always happens

 

Spent the day in the mancave myself also today - so progress finally!!

[MrBounce]

It's been an interesting, if somewhat frustrating morning. I finished the top rail cross piece and fitted it, only to discover that a) I couldn't fit the dash over it and b) I didn't really need it anyway... Let me explain:

 

Having peeled the cross piece off the parcel tape-covered workmate, I drilled a couple of holes and fitted it across the dash. I then had a root around in my bits box and found a couple of brackets from the old MG F dash I was going to use. These fitted perfectly as supports. I drilled out a couple of holes and bolted them to the cross piece and lower dash rail. I then offered up the dash cover and found that it wouldn't fit at all. Both the cross piece and the uprights fouled the now modified dash. Not only that, but where I had filled in the "glovebox" hole and centre section, it now fouled on the lower rail as well. Amazingly I didn't scream or set fire to anything. (Since my bearing issues I seem to be much more relaxed...) I applied some much needed modification to the bottom rail using the Dremel.

 

Then I grabbed the dash cover and fitted it, using the two screw holes at the bottom on each side. I will need to modify it slightly to add two more mounting points, but because the dash is now so much stiffer after the alterations, there should be no need for additional bracing. The downside is that I also need to construct a dash top to include the screen vents. There was one that came with the car, but in usual 1980s kit car fashion, it doesn't come anywhere near to fitting properly. I think I am going to need to get creative... All suggestions welcomed!

 

Cross piece fitted fine.

 

 

MG F brackets were a perfect fit after redrilling a couple of holes...

 

 

... but the whole set up was binned as it got in the way. So did this.

 

 

Dash now fits. Dash top doesn't. Not even close...