742 replies to this topic

[Mini-Mad-Craig]

Oh my that looks nice. GOOD job! 

[MrBounce]

I have put the paintwork to one side for a while as it is taking a lot longer to fully dry than first expected. As I am going to be doing at least 2 more coats with an absolute MOUNTAIN of rubbing back, it can wait for a bit for the paint to cure.

So to fill in the time I thought it would be a good time to refresh my carburettor. It's a standard HIF44 from a 1275 Metro, and as the spindle felt in excellent condition, I decided on a service kit rather than the full rebuild kit, saving myself about £30 in the process. The carb itself, although clean on the outside was perhaps a little less than spotless on the inside. So it was time for a run through the parts washer, with special attention from a toothbrush. Much nicer now, and more pleasant to work with. The only thing I will stress is that you should remember to order a couple of butterfly screws as well, as they aren't reusable. I don't much fancy the idea of a piece of one of the old ones being sucked down into my new engine...

Carb apart, bits in need of a clean...



And clean again!!

[MrBounce]

Whilst waiting for some butterfly screws before I can finish off the carb, I thought I might as well start with the dashboard. It has been my intention originally to make my own dash using the MGF dashboard I got free as a base. However, I have come across a number of problems. 1) It is broken and warped, 2) It needs the ends cutting off as the MGF is about 4inches wider inside, 3) I don't have any bits with it other than vents and 4) after cutting it to the right width it is so far removed from the shape it needs to be that I may as well start with something else. So after attempting to modify it to suit my needs, I consigned it to the dustbin. It just needed too much work.

I knew there was a reason that I had not thrown anyway the original dashboard. That said, it is a horrible thing that took the old 1275GT-style gauges (which I hated) and has a monstrosity of a middle section. However, it fits, and I can always modify it. So that is exactly what I have started to do. I covered some cardboard with tape and used it to cover the current dial and switch holes, before covering and strengthening with a fresh layer of fibreglass. The plan is to completely remake the middle section and to have a blank canvas to do something great with. Watch this space...

I need to fill this hole...



...but not with what this once was.



So it's time to dig out the original (and horrible) dash cover.



In the process of adding tape-covered card which will peel off once fibreglass is dry.



First layer of fibreglass on. More modification will follow.

[Ben_O]

Looking forward to seeing how the dash comes out mate.

 

Ben

[MrBounce]

I have done a little more work on the dashboard; the plan is to use the five 2" gauges in the pod from the XJ6, along with a digital speedo (the centre speedo I have does not fit!) and a 2" rev counter. I am also going back to a standard Mini heater (it fits nicely and there isn't space behind the Midas dash for all the ventwork, pipes and electrics for the gauges) so will doubtless be rebuilding that as well. There was still the monstrosity of a bulge on the front of the dash. This was removed using a saw attachment for a Stanley knife (brilliant bit of kit!) and finished off with the Dremel. I have partially covered this with fresh fibreglass (I used tape-covered card/wood to stop sagging) but I am only halfway through that part with no fibreglass left...

I am, however, a very happy boy. I had a big parcel turn up at Mum & Dad's the other night, which happened to contain my refurbished gearbox from Guessworks. Having spent a few minutes admiring it the lounge, I was encouraged by Mrs Bounce to actually go and fit it. So after fishing out the gasket set and the  new nut & bolt set, on went the gaskets, the half moon seal and the super important 'O' ring - I do actually want some oil pressure when I start the engine! It looks awesome.

Horrible bit cut off.



New fibreglass where the horrible bit used to be. More will follow.



Refurbished Gearbox. 'Tis a thing of beauty. I have now removed it from the lounge.



Gaskets on with a smear of Blue Hylomar and half moon seal fitted.



No way was I forgetting this little fella!



Nicely where it should be.

[MrBounce]

Right - time to start sorting out the transfer gears & housing. Having had a catastrophic failure of this kind in the past, I wanted to get this right! First to go in was the new idler gear bearing. A few minutes with a a socket and mallet and all was in square. Bounce's top tip is to leave the bearing in the freezer overnight before you fit it - makes life a little easier!

An end float for both the Primary Gear and the idler gear float are recommended at .003" to .006" so some careful measurement was needed. The thrust washer I had was 0.115", and with the first C washer combo I tried gave an end float of 0.18". not ideal, especially as the biggest thrust washer I could get is a 0.124" which would still leave 9 thou, 1 1/2 times the required amount. However, another combo I tried allowed me a 0.012" end float. All I need now ideally is a 0.121" to 0.122" thrust. Amazingly, the idler gear and its shims were absolutely spot on so that's an unexpected bonus.

As I don't have a bigger thrust washer, I turned my attention to my eBay bargain heater. Only cost me a tenner plus postage, but when the box arrived, the front control switch had punched through the side of the box. The seller kindly refunded the postage which made things better and only a small amount of bending put the switch right. The heater body itself was a little scruffy and the pipes were in great nick but it was the matrix I was interested in. Amazingly it seemed fine with only a few marks on it and when I reverse flushed it, the water ran clear after a second, meaning minimal sludge. I have taken the heater body apart anyway to clean it and respray it and the foam is all shot to hell, so that'll be replaced. I have primed it; just need to get some more paint now.

New bearing in. Easier with a frozen bearing.



Thrust washer. Not as big as I need it...



...because this gap is too big for now.



Quick calculation. Using the cupboard door is useful when you've run out of paper...



Heater looks ok - especially as it was only a tenner.



Side panels already sanded down and in primer.



Matrix will go again. Happy with that.

Edited by MrBounce, 12 October 2014 - 08:37 PM.

[Ben_O]

Good work mate.

 

Im dreading building my engine up, al that end float business goes waaaayyyy over my head.

 

Ben

[MrBounce]

Ben it was all goobledygook to me too until I read Andy's engine building guide in the Project Minis section - all makes sense now!

 

There are numerous ups and downs of having a project car, and I have experienced both ends of the spectrum over this weekend. Let's start with the rubbish. At some point in the 80s Austin Rover thought it'd be a very good idea to slightly change the design of their A+ drop gears. They did it JUST enough to make sure that the two different types didn't mesh together properly. Off I went to see Ted at the East Anglian Mini Centre who kindly swapped the primary gear type I had for the one that fitted my idler gear. He even thanked me for cleaning the other one for him. Cheeky bar steward! Once back home I was able to reset my primary gear end float using the new (and expensive) thrust washer I had to buy. Luckily there was only one thou' difference between the two primary gears so I was able to get 0.004" end float - perfectly within the 0.003-0.006" recommended tolerance. Next on went the flywheel housing, so I taped up the primary gear, fitted the clutch oil seal and gently lowered it onto the engine, having chucked on a gasket with some Hylomar. A little persuasion with the rubber mallet and all was happily bolted up.

Next was the clutch and flywheel. I first of all made sure the engine was at TDC. Then the backplate, clutch plate and flywheel went on, followed by the stepped washer. I locked up the flywheel using an old engine bearing (works a treat) and torqued it up. Then had to take it all off again because I noticed that I hadn't put the split pin in the bottom of the housing. I shouted rude words loudly. A lot. After take 2, I was able to put the clutch pressure plate on having made sure all was lined up, then finished it off with the clutch "wok" and the breather.

There's still some minor stuff to do, but I am extremely happy to say that I have just built my first engine. And I feel AMAZING!!

Expensive thrust washer. Worth it in the long run.



That's better than 12 thou!



All taped up



Housing on and clutch oil seal fitted.



Flywheel on, just before taking it off again - split pin was missing!!



Clutch all fitted and ready to go.



I built this. An enormous sense of achievement. I feel proud of myself!

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[Mini-Mad-Craig]

Nice job! It's very blue!

[MrBounce]

The engine & gearbox combo are now off the stand as I was a little concerned that the bolts being used were under far more strain than they were designed for. Andy came over one evening and I built a little trolley for the engine, then we lifted it down. The alternator mounting bolts had indeed bent - I reckon they would've broken after a while. Note to self: when building a trolley, make sure that the castors you use can take the weight. The trolley now consists of wood, 3 wheels and some broken plastic...

I have practically finished off the heater; Having repainted the casing I have applied new foam to the matrix and the control flap then screwed it all back together. I still need to sort the switch panel but I can't make up my mind whether to re-use the original marking or get my own? I will have a think.
There are still some small bits needing work on the engine; a new oil pressure relief valve & spring went in with a new copper washer, and I have since turned my attention to the oil filter housing and pipe. Of course these were for want of a better phrase "bloody filthy" so I spent about half an hour giving them a good going over in the parts washer. Once dry, they've been primed then given a coat of silver to match the rest of the engine. I have also added the temperature sender to the head and have found the alternator bracket which I have also prepped for paint.

New foam and matrix going in.



Almost done. Needs a wipe down and switch panel sorting.



New oil pressure relief valve & spring in, along with new copper washer. Must touch up that bit I missed!!



Engine on trolley. Currently has 3 wheels and a stump. Oops...



Oil filter housing and pipe primed...



...and painted.

[mayoturbo]

nice project. Looks great orange

[MrBounce]

Thanks mayo!

 

Just a short update as I haven't done a huge amount these past few days. I have finished off the oil filter housing and pipe and fitted them and also dug out the alternator bracket. I cleaned this (and man was it filthy!) as it had been sitting in a plastic box with a few other old oily bits, then primed and sprayed and bolted it to the block with some new bolts. I also fished out the distributor drive and gave that a good soaking and brushing in the parts washer. Suitably cleaned, it was popped into the block using the tried and tested method of the 5/16" bolt. It's in exactly the right position which apparently means my engine is timed correctly, something I was worried about! The distributor clamp has also been sprayed so this'll be added (along with the distributor itself) once it's dry.

New filter housing & bracket on the engine. Does this count as "bling?"



Distributor drive. In the right position. Am feeling suitably smug!

[MrBounce]

Everything on the project has ground to a halt until I can sort this out. I have a problem with the backplate/flywheel/clutch arrangement. All has gone on beautifully but when the engine is turned I get a "clunk" about 90 degrees round. It doesn't happen when the flywheel setup is not there (no engine/gearbox issues thankfully) but it's driving me crazy trying to sort it.

 

Here's a YouTube link to give you an idea of what it sounds like:

[Udo]

Morning Dave,

 

Check the transfer casing has been fitted with the studs/bolts in the correct places and that any of the bolts for the pressure plate are the correct length etc, it will be something like that which allows you to turn it so far then it catches

 

Ian

[MrBounce]

Thanks Ian. I am taking the flywheel housing off tonight and will have a look at the drop gears to see what the issue is. I don't think it can be the bolts as it still makes the same noise without the flywheel and clutch assembly fitted. A drop gear issue maybe? Perhaps thery're not meshing??