
Blown Head Gasket - What To Do?
#1
Posted 31 July 2011 - 09:29 PM
Please give your topic a title that quickly describes your problem. Just putting 'Help my Mini doesn't work' is useless to anyone trying to help.
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Model:
Mayfair
Year:
1988
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):
The brand new head gasket on my beloved mini has blown after only 3 months of use and as money is extremely tight at the moment I am wondering what my options are at this stage. I could re-skim the head and get a new gasket, but how likely is it that it'll blow again? And how much could this cost? What could have caused the blown head gasket in the first place?
Also, I have been given the impression that minis break a lot and that they constantly have problems; is there any truth to this?
#2
Posted 31 July 2011 - 09:40 PM
~~~~~Please delete this text before posting the topic~~~~~~
Please give your topic a title that quickly describes your problem. Just putting 'Help my Mini doesn't work' is useless to anyone trying to help.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Model:
Mayfair
Year:
1988
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):
The brand new head gasket on my beloved mini has blown after only 3 months of use and as money is extremely tight at the moment I am wondering what my options are at this stage. I could re-skim the head and get a new gasket, but how likely is it that it'll blow again? And how much could this cost? What could have caused the blown head gasket in the first place?
Also, I have been given the impression that minis break a lot and that they constantly have problems; is there any truth to this?
Thing is to find out why it has blown again.
Who fitted the gasket and did they do it properly
A head gasket will blow if the engine has been overheated or if it was fitted badly i.e. new gasket contaminated with oily fingers etc whilst fitting or not torqued down properly.
it is unlikely that the head or block is warped but it does happen.
the head or block faces may have been damaged / scratched when the new gasket was fitted or the surfaces not cleaned properly before new gasket went on.
It is common for the gasket to blow at the front close to No1 and No2 cylinders on tuned / threshed motors but a small amount of gasket goo in this area cures this I've found.
A well fitted head gasket should last the life of then engine and there is no reason why it shouldn't if everything else is as it should be.
Best of luck with it and sorry I cant help further.
#3
Posted 31 July 2011 - 09:44 PM
Also, I have been given the impression that minis break a lot and that they constantly have problems; is there any truth to this?
Yes, yes they do.

#4
Posted 01 August 2011 - 01:29 AM
First thing you need to do is get the head off. If your unsure on what order to undo the bolts then look at the diagram in the Haynes Manual and do it in reverse as this will be less strenuous on the head. Once you have the head off then get a steel rule and hold it against the bottom surface of the head and make sure that its flat, i.e not warped. If your head is still flat then your on to a winner so buy a copper gasket and valve grinding paste and a valve compressor then regrind your valves. Fit the copper gasket and make sure the gasket is fitted the way the markings tell you i.e. it will say TOP and FRONT. Once you have built up the engine you will need to set your tappets. The whole job sounds scary but in all honesty its the sort of job an amateur mechanic can handle quite easily. I would estimate the whole job can be done by yourself for about £50 - £60 if your buying the parts and tools or about £200+ if you get a garage to do it. Oh best to change your oil and filter too if your head has blown as the oil may be contaminated with antifreeze.
Remember to refer to the Haynes for your torque settings on the head bolts and tappet settings etc.
#5
Posted 01 August 2011 - 04:05 PM

I am planning on replacing the cylinder head as it's a leaded one anyways and re-skimming may not solve the problem, so fingers crossed this'll be a permanent solution!
#6
Posted 01 August 2011 - 04:50 PM
#7
Posted 01 August 2011 - 05:32 PM

Did he re-torque it after its first start up with the new gasket?
Headbolts should always be torqued and re-torqued after the engine's been warm...
#8
Posted 01 August 2011 - 09:08 PM
#9
Posted 01 August 2011 - 09:10 PM
#10
Posted 01 August 2011 - 09:19 PM
Put new ones on if you can afford it and flush the rad out.
as said above the head gasket change should be as clean and oil free an opperation as poss, leave the head gasket in its wrapper till its ready to go on the go wash your hands before fitting it and then wear gloves to fit it so as no grease off your hands gets on the gasket surface then you will have no problems
best o luck..
#11
Posted 01 August 2011 - 09:22 PM

Edited by bmcecosse, 01 August 2011 - 09:24 PM.
#12
Posted 01 August 2011 - 09:38 PM
Well actually (and we have had this argument ad nauseum before) I always spread a thin layer of clean grease over the gasket faces before fitting. It's never failed me...... I wouldn't fuss about 'Payen' - but I do suggest a copper faced gasket. Obviously the head and block should be inspected for any sign of erosion where perhaps the engine was run with the gasket blowing.......
Grease on a Payen gasket will cause the gasket to burn when it gets hot. It wont last long!
Copper gasket different but why would you contaminate a new head gasket with grease?
#13
Posted 01 August 2011 - 10:15 PM
#14
Posted 01 August 2011 - 10:22 PM
#15
Posted 03 August 2011 - 11:21 AM

I've already put in an order for a cylinder head with minisport (amongst other bits and bobs) so at least I can be sure it wasn't a damaged head that caused the blown gasket, though it was most likely human error

I looked at the Payen gaskets but couldn't find one for a 998cc engine, do they make them for that size?
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