14 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hello All

I am having my 850cc mini engine rebuilt at the moment, MRA are doing a great job on it.
Has anyone reading this got any experience of starting a rebuilt engine for the first time? There are so many guides on the internet it can get a bit confusing. Can anyone tell me what process they went through before starting, and generally the running in process itself from actually turning the key?

Cheers
John

Edited by mk=john, 28 July 2011 - 08:36 PM.

[oltonlad]

Hello All

I am having my 850cc mini engine rebuilt at the moment, MRA are doing a great job on it.
Has anyone reading this got any experience of starting a rebuilt engine for the first time? There are so many guides on the internet it can get a bit confusing. Can anyone tell me what process they went through before starting, and generally the running in process itself from actually turning the key?

Cheers
John

you need to get oil pressure up before the engine actually starts up, take all of the spark plugs out and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or pressure gauge shows pressure, refit the plugs and start the engine, if everything is set up ok then it should start reasonably easily, let the engine run at fast idle for about 15 minutes (about 2000 rpm), check for leaks etc, when running in dont over rev the engine but always use different rev ranges, revving it to a max of 3500-4000rpm will be fine, do this for 500 miles then change the oil and filter, then gradually increse the revs over the next 500 miles, after this you can use it however you want, i ran my 1330 in this way and it turned out to be an excellent engine with no problems whatsoever.

[mk=john]

Hello All

I am having my 850cc mini engine rebuilt at the moment, MRA are doing a great job on it.
Has anyone reading this got any experience of starting a rebuilt engine for the first time? There are so many guides on the internet it can get a bit confusing. Can anyone tell me what process they went through before starting, and generally the running in process itself from actually turning the key?

Cheers
John

you need to get oil pressure up before the engine actually starts up, take all of the spark plugs out and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or pressure gauge shows pressure, refit the plugs and start the engine, if everything is set up ok then it should start reasonably easily, let the engine run at fast idle for about 15 minutes (about 2000 rpm), check for leaks etc, when running in dont over rev the engine but always use different rev ranges, revving it to a max of 3500-4000rpm will be fine, do this for 500 miles then change the oil and filter, then gradually increse the revs over the next 500 miles, after this you can use it however you want, i ran my 1330 in this way and it turned out to be an excellent engine with no problems whatsoever.

The car is a very basic 850, with no oil or temperaure gauges (it just has idiot lights on the dash). is it an easy fit to temporarily fit these items, how these be installed without dmaging the car in any way (i dont want to drill any holes, scratch any paint etc on the inside of the car.

Edited by mk=john, 28 July 2011 - 08:46 PM.

[sledgehammer]

Hi
The oil and Temp gauges can be a temporary fit - you can buy a gauge surround
But I think once you have them , you will want to keep them - as they are useful
with a new engine , try not to bog it down , ie low rev's - high gear - wide throttle
and remember to check if the head needs a re-torque after a certain mileage has been reached -
also a good idea to check valve lash after re-torque
as said above , varied driving with 4000 rpm limit
I always put a strong magnet on the oil filter when bedding in an engine -
it reduces the fine metal particles in the oil (in theory)

Edited by sledgehammer, 28 July 2011 - 10:45 PM.

[mk=john]

Hi
The oil and Temp gauges can be a temporary fit - you can buy a gauge surround
But I think once you have them , you will want to keep them - as they are useful
with a new engine , try not to bog it down , ie low rev's - high gear - wide throttle
and remember to check if the head needs a re-torque after a certain mileage has been reached -
also a good idea to check valve lash after re-torque
as said above , varied driving with 4000 rpm limit
I always put a strong magnet on the oil filter when bedding in an engine -
it reduces the fine metal particles in the oil (in theory)

Are there any guides on fitting temporary oil pressure and temp guages?

[hutch8282]

Hi

Also on top of the running in stages as stated above, once you have the engine installed rock the car back and forward, in neutral to start with then as far as you can in gear.

I heard this from one of my friends who just replaced his engine and his mechanic done this which revealed a problem. If he had started the engine it would have destroyed it.

Cheers

Hutch

[dklawson]

Also on top of the running in stages as stated above, once you have the engine installed rock the car back and forward, in neutral to start with then as far as you can in gear.

???? Why?
If you do such a step or test it would be nice to know what you are looking for so you know if you have a problem or not.

John, you said MRA is building the engine for you. Martin should be able to provide you a punch list of things to check and do when you start the engine for the first time.

Among the more common things you will see listed is/are:
1) With the spark plugs removed, crank the engine on the starter until you have oil PRESSURE (people kept saying temperature in posts above). Yes, you can temporarily fit a pressure gauge in place of the idiot light switch during this process.
2) Once you have oil pressure, put the plugs back in and start the engine. If the cam is new, bring the RPM up to about 2000 using the idle adjustment screw. Keep it at 2000 for 20 minutes to bed the cam and lifters.
3) During the cam bedding period, watch the exhaust downpipe. If it becomes red hot, lower the jet another 1/2 to 1 turn to richen the mixture and cool the exhaust. You don't want to burn those new exhaust valves.
4) You will have re-fitted the radiator and then filled the cooling system. Therefore, start the engine with the radiator cap off. Watch the fluid level in the radiator header tank and be prepared to add coolant when the thermostat opens. You'll know when it happens.
5) At all times keep a fire extinguisher handy and watch all the fluid lines looking for leaks.

I'm sure Martin will add more suggestions.

[mk=john]

Also on top of the running in stages as stated above, once you have the engine installed rock the car back and forward, in neutral to start with then as far as you can in gear.

???? Why?
If you do such a step or test it would be nice to know what you are looking for so you know if you have a problem or not.

John, you said MRA is building the engine for you. Martin should be able to provide you a punch list of things to check and do when you start the engine for the first time.

Among the more common things you will see listed is/are:
1) With the spark plugs removed, crank the engine on the starter until you have oil PRESSURE (people kept saying temperature in posts above). Yes, you can temporarily fit a pressure gauge in place of the idiot light switch during this process.
2) Once you have oil pressure, put the plugs back in and start the engine. If the cam is new, bring the RPM up to about 2000 using the idle adjustment screw. Keep it at 2000 for 20 minutes to bed the cam and lifters.
3) During the cam bedding period, watch the exhaust downpipe. If it becomes red hot, lower the jet another 1/2 to 1 turn to richen the mixture and cool the exhaust. You don't want to burn those new exhaust valves.
4) You will have re-fitted the radiator and then filled the cooling system. Therefore, start the engine with the radiator cap off. Watch the fluid level in the radiator header tank and be prepared to add coolant when the thermostat opens. You'll know when it happens.
5) At all times keep a fire extinguisher handy and watch all the fluid lines looking for leaks.

I'm sure Martin will add more suggestions.

Hi
Thanks
Martins biggest suggestion was to add an oil pressure gauge near the engine, as a temporary thing at least, to see oil pressure climb to over 50psi before the engine is fired up.

But also, the carbettor itself has recently had a full rebuild, andneeds to be adjusted along with accurate ignition timing. The static timing is easy, in tha past I have used the light bulb method to time the number 1 spark.

But I think that there are those adjustments which would be easy on an already run in engine, but how do I tackle those in this case. Is it a case of trial and error, suck it and see etc?

As I dont want to labour the engine during the run in period, it may be difficult to set the timing properly.
Sorry, these may seem oike stupid questions but it is relevant for the smooth running of the engine right from the word go.

Edited by mk=john, 31 July 2011 - 08:13 PM.

[dklawson]

Set the carb up per Haynes for the "basic" get your engine started adjustments. Assuming that you do have a new cam, the 20 minute at 2000 RPM break in will afford you time to adjust the mixture a bit if needed. Don't worry about a final and accurate adjustment during that first 20 minutes, just keep your eye on the exhaust pipe and richen the mixture if the pipe starts to turn red. After the break in period you can do a proper mixture adjustment. Likewise, the static timing will be more than sufficient for the break in period.

I don't want to deceive you though. Starting an engine after a rebuild is a nerve racking experience. You will stand there about to turn the key wondering if there is anything you forgot. When the engine does start you continue to worry and any sound you don't expect will convince you something was missed. Don't panic. Just try and remain calm during that first 20 minutes. After that your life will return to normal.

[MRA]

Hi John,

I do have the information that we recomend for pre start up check, how to start, how to run and post run checks..... as discussed we will be helping and advising along the way

So please don't worry, and just take one step at a time, the oil guage is just a tool as this car is about as concourse a car as I have ever seen, an oil gauge will not be fitted permanently or so I am lead to believe.....

Once you have the gauge, then it's on to the next stage, however as we are delivering the unit we will include all information then

That said most of the above information should give you peace of mind and confidence in what you are about to do.

[mk=john]

Hi John,

I do have the information that we recomend for pre start up check, how to start, how to run and post run checks..... as discussed we will be helping and advising along the way

So please don't worry, and just take one step at a time, the oil guage is just a tool as this car is about as concourse a car as I have ever seen, an oil gauge will not be fitted permanently or so I am lead to believe.....

Once you have the gauge, then it's on to the next stage, however as we are delivering the unit we will include all information then

That said most of the above information should give you peace of mind and confidence in what you are about to do.

Hi Martin

I am currently prepping the other engine stuff for paint (rocker cover, clutch cover and other small bits and bobs for the BMC green engine paint as you have used for the block and head. Can you please advise what is the part number for this, and did you get it from Moss europe? I want to be sure I get the exact same colour.

Cheers
John

[1984mini25]

I don't want to deceive you though. Starting an engine after a rebuild is a nerve racking experience. You will stand there about to turn the key wondering if there is anything you forgot.

Isn’t it just, on the last few I’ve done its either been getting the dizzy drive 180 degrees out or some really dodgy connector somewhere in the ignition side of things.

I would recommended fitting and oil pressure gauge though, even temporary. Fitting one has possibly stopped me from trashing the engine in the project, when finding out the oil pressure relief valve was jammed shut and had over 100psi of oil pressure just on cranking alone.

As for fitting them, you just need a t section that screws in place of the idiot switch sender in the block. Then you use that to screw the pipe that runs off to the back of your gaudge and the oil idiot sender, so the light still works.

[minimender]

Just drive it.
Never give it full throttle or let it labour
Light throttle and just drive it.
Short journeys will run it in quicker

[MRA]

Hi John,

I do have the information that we recomend for pre start up check, how to start, how to run and post run checks..... as discussed we will be helping and advising along the way

So please don't worry, and just take one step at a time, the oil guage is just a tool as this car is about as concourse a car as I have ever seen, an oil gauge will not be fitted permanently or so I am lead to believe.....

Once you have the gauge, then it's on to the next stage, however as we are delivering the unit we will include all information then

That said most of the above information should give you peace of mind and confidence in what you are about to do.

Hi Martin

I am currently prepping the other engine stuff for paint (rocker cover, clutch cover and other small bits and bobs for the BMC green engine paint as you have used for the block and head. Can you please advise what is the part number for this, and did you get it from Moss europe? I want to be sure I get the exact same colour.

Cheers
John

Hi John,

Did you want us to bead blast them for you ? prior to painting ??

I was going to let you have the paint so you can paint other items..... looks like you have beaten me to it

Yes I get it from Moss Europe.

[mk=john]

Hi John,

I do have the information that we recomend for pre start up check, how to start, how to run and post run checks..... as discussed we will be helping and advising along the way

So please don't worry, and just take one step at a time, the oil guage is just a tool as this car is about as concourse a car as I have ever seen, an oil gauge will not be fitted permanently or so I am lead to believe.....

Once you have the gauge, then it's on to the next stage, however as we are delivering the unit we will include all information then

That said most of the above information should give you peace of mind and confidence in what you are about to do.

Hi Martin

I am currently prepping the other engine stuff for paint (rocker cover, clutch cover and other small bits and bobs for the BMC green engine paint as you have used for the block and head. Can you please advise what is the part number for this, and did you get it from Moss europe? I want to be sure I get the exact same colour.

Cheers
John

Hi John,

Did you want us to bead blast them for you ? Prior to painting ??

I was going to let you have the paint so you can paint other items..... looks like you have beaten me to it

Yes I get it from Moss Europe.

Hi Martin
I have already piant stripepd them, I have a blaster at home which i will use prior to painting.
Can you please PM me regarding delivery.

Cheers
John