37 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

If you need to re-shell and can't afford a new heritage shell, you just have to be a bit careful. First of all don't go talking about it. Just do it yourself. Don't change the colours or the engine configuration from those in the V5, Make sure the shell is then same spec. as the original with matching stamped-in numbers in the correct locations. It's not unusual (as Tom Jones might say) for the panels which originally carried the stamped-in numbers to have been replaced due to rust. A set of metal stamps is not expensive.
Re-shelling, as such, is not often really needed. There is a friend of mine who has a body assembly jig and I saw a pick-up shell on the jig recently. The only original bits were the front bulkhead and floor plus the A & B pillars and the roof. All the rest are new panels, but that's not classed as re-shelling.
It is completely crazy really.

[lrostoke]

Its just one of those things which when you look at it don't make sense.
Like you say during a restoration you could in theory replace 90% of a shell but its still classed as the same shell !!

[minimartin1]

couldnt u just cut the numbers out of the scuttle panel lip and reweld it on?

[R1minimagic]

Yes it's the first thing i check for when buying a Mini, run your fingers along the underside/inside edge of the scuttle to check it's all smooth.

Of course, they could have done a really good job of it!!

[scrog]

but you can buy a brand new MK4 shell and use it to do a MK1 resto its all ********

i have a mini that has been off the road for over 20 years yet i can still transfer the plate as a private number because i ask
and am not a trader out to make a fast buck
i explaned i could not aford to restore the car but could i transfer the plate and they said yes )

[DeanP]

It's done to stop stolen cars having their identity changed. If caught you could be accused of doing just that, especially if that V5c you have is registered as stolen.

[Cooperman]

Yes it's the first thing i check for when buying a Mini, run your fingers along the underside/inside edge of the scuttle to check it's all smooth.

Of course, they could have done a really good job of it!!

I'm not quite clear what you are supposed to do when changing the scuttle panel on late cars. Are you meant to cut the numbers out of the original rusty panel and weld them into the new panel before fitting, to get some metal stamps and stamp the correct numbers into the new panel prior to painting, or to just fit the new panel and not bother with the numbers?
My very 'Mini-friendly' MoT place said not to bother with stamping the numbers back in with my own set of stamps, so on Cooperkid's MPI it's not been done.

[R1minimagic]

In all honesty, I don't think it makes a great deal of difference what you do, at the end of the day it's highly unlikely anyone will check or even care.

[Cooperman]

In all honesty, I don't think it makes a great deal of difference what you do, at the end of the day it's highly unlikely anyone will check or even care.

Reckon you're quite right there.

[dunf]

I have some related experience although not quite the same thing. Mini's are new to me. My 'forte' has always been classic scooters, usually vespa and lambretta. A few years ago i put a yz250 engine into a lambretta GP frame which was imported from india as a complete scooter (although it was only ever an unbuilt frame with stamped numbers on it, never built up), and modified / upgraded almost everything else to suit the increase in power. Basically the only original unmodified part left was the badge on the front horncasting!!!

When i went to register the scooter, I needed a dating certificate from the Lambretta Club of Britain and a visual inspection from DVLA local office to confirm the identity. Now, the part of the frame with the stamps was removed to accomodate the new subframe for the crosser engine so the only identification was a vin plate i made myself using the same numbers, although i still have the removed 'piece' as evidence.

Now in order for the DVLA to allocate the dated registration, they have to confirm the identification. They are aware that frames are readily available from india, so they score the scooter on a points system to retain the right to a dated regsitration, with 8 points required to acheive this. It works on the basis 2 points are allocated for original frame, 2 for engine, 1 for forks, 1 for suspension, etc etc.

So the point is, in this instance you can re-frame (re-shell), using a spare part frame and continue to use the existing registration and all be legal and above board. Most of these indian frames are unstamped, so you can just stamp your existing number onto it. I've seen loads done like this and all approved by DVLA local office.

[DeanP]

In all honesty, I don't think it makes a great deal of difference what you do, at the end of the day it's highly unlikely anyone will check or even care.

Reckon you're quite right there.

I agree too, but it would be sods law if ever I did go down this route some bugger would spot it! lol

[Cooperman]

In all honesty, I don't think it makes a great deal of difference what you do, at the end of the day it's highly unlikely anyone will check or even care.

Reckon you're quite right there.

I agree too, but it would be sods law if ever I did go down this route some bugger would spot it! lol

What's to spot? The stamped in original numbers disappear with the new panels you fit when restoring a shell, the VIN plate which is rivitted on is the same and there are no other shell idents. The risk is to keep on talking about it. There are just so many re-shelled Minis out there and it's not a problem.
Now, if you have, say, a green Mk.2 Mini 998 and you re-shell it with a Mk.3 shell, fit a 1275 engine, paint it red, fit a different interior, different wheels, different brakes, noisy exhaust, etc, then take it to the same MoT station as saw it the last time, when it failed due to major rust, don't be surprised if there are 'questions in the house'. But if you have a car which looks identical, has the correct VIN plate, is the correct colour, etc, why should it be suspicious, even if the DVLA decided to have it inspected. Of course, if they come to your home and there is your re-shelled car with a scrap Mk.2 shell in the corner, you can expect questions. However, there is nothing to stop you using 2nd hand panels in the restoration of a shell.
The biggest risk is to talk about to everyone and anyone. If you're gonna do it, then just quietly do it.

[cakes]

basically is just ringing one car for another except u dont have the chassis number,, and with minis having so many panels replaced it makes it harder to identify as they cant check a chassis for identification,, so i guess thats why when u look to buy a pre 1972 they sometimes state that its been re-shelled, which means its a newer car ( shell ) with the older documents !!!!!!

[Cooperman]

basically is just ringing one car for another except u dont have the chassis number,, and with minis having so many panels replaced it makes it harder to identify as they cant check a chassis for identification,, so i guess thats why when u look to buy a pre 1972 they sometimes state that its been re-shelled, which means its a newer car ( shell ) with the older documents !!!!!!

Which is legal so long as the new shell is a NEW one made by Heritage and has a receipt. then the V5 will show a change of body nnumber, but it will keep its original year of registration and reg. no. If you actually declare a re-shell into a 2nd hand shell, you'll get a visit from the vehicle inspector and a 'Q-plate'.
Read the above posts carefully and you'll see what it all means.

[Ethel]

DVLA have to pin the V5 to something, and the bodyshell does seem the best option.

They are likely to take a dim view if they think you are fiddling some freebie roadtax on an historic vehicle ID - or passing off a "bitsa" as a Mk3 Cooper S. Though, if you're paying original cooper prices, it's surely up to you to know what you're looking at - what would be more original a Cooper in a Mk3 998 shell or a brand new Mk7 one from BMH?

I wouldn't cut out, and weld in, any numbers; it's likely to look dodgier than an unmarked new panel - especially if you hang on to the old bit of tin & the receipt for the panel.