
Re-shelling
#1
Posted 19 July 2011 - 12:44 PM
#2
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:07 PM
#3
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:16 PM
#4
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:25 PM
However, if you choose to use a rust-free or fully restored 2nd hand shell, it's best not to talk about it on here, or on anywhere really, then you will probably have no problems.
There is a petition to gov't to allow re-shelling for classic cars which it is hoped will regularise the situation.
The cautionary note must be that if you re-shell with a 2nd hand shell and are found out, then the car will be crushed (at worst).
I hope that answers the question.
It is probably best to re-build the shell if it is rusty with as many new panels are necessary, even using a body jig if necessary.
#5
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:28 PM
#6
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:37 PM
The law seems crazy, you can buy whatever 2nd hand parts you like and that's fine so why not a shell? As long as it is all legit, you have both logbooks and use whichever bits you want then record the other car as scrap, i dont understand!!!
If you have both log books then you probably can do that, You'd just have to use the log book that matches the shell you used.
Edited by lrostoke, 19 July 2011 - 01:39 PM.
#7
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:39 PM
#8
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:48 PM
#9
Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:54 PM
It is daft because you can replace subframes, engines, wheels, interior and the car stays the same car.
But legally the identity of a car is the shell and corrisponding logbook.
WHAT you do is upto you though

#10
Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:02 PM
#11
Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:46 PM
but isnt the only identification mark on the slam panel under the bonnet, and thats only fixed by 2 rivets ??????
It's on the inner wing for later minis and is also stamped onto the scuttle panel for some. But you've just about hit the nail on the head!
There are lots of tax exempt minis out there that appear to have much later shells.
As has already been said you really should keep the correct ID with the shell. If (and it's a fairly big if) you get caught with the wrong ID your car can be crushed.
Also remember you can't just scrap a logbook these days - you need to physically scrap the shell that goes with it and get a certificate of destruction or you'll have to SORN it forever.
#12
Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:54 PM
#13
Posted 19 July 2011 - 03:04 PM
On later cars the shell number is indeed stamped on the lip of the scuttle panel. But that is the panel which always rusts and most are or will be replaced. I asked my MoT tester friend if I was supposed to get a set of metal stamps and stamp the original number into the new panel and he said not to bother as he only looks at the rivetted-on VIN plate. Says it all really.
#14
Posted 19 July 2011 - 03:12 PM
The new red v5 does not have this section anymore!!
#15
Posted 19 July 2011 - 03:27 PM
The identity, registration, log book or whatever you want to call it is assigned to the vehicle, or chassis. Once the legitimacy of that vehicle or chassis comes into question then the identity is no longer valid, hence the introduction of the "Q" plate many years ago.. essentially a vehicle of undetermined source, bitsa, heinz 57 etc etc...
All VOSA are doing in starting to enforce what has been neglected for many years.
A CoD is now required to scrap a car, to show that it has been disposed of in accordance to environmental regulations...
http://www.environme...tion/31887.aspx
PS. As I buy all my cars as a trader, I don't have to sorn them..
Edited by Guess-Works.com, 19 July 2011 - 03:29 PM.
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