12 replies to this topic

[mike.]

Hi all

I'm looking at ordering some seam sealer to put on a few areas of work i've had done to my car. I've done a search and there seems to be a few recommendations for tiger seal over brushable seam sealer you can buy in large tins.

The areas I need to seal are the rear bumper lip, as rust is forming between that and the rear valance and also i've had the shock mounts/inner wings repaired on my car and need to seal around the repair piece from the bulkhead side where water is likely to get into the box section.

Sorry for the terrible picture, but heres the seams and joints I want to seal up before I paint them:



The brushable sealer will probably be easier to use for what i'm doing than stuff in a tube, but with the tiger seal could I apply it and then sort of push it and smear it into the joints properly by hand if i've got gloves on?

Also with the sealers, are you suppose to paint or primer the area at all first or should it be applied to bare metal and then overpainted?

Cheers

[liam_italian]

I've just used tiger seal to do the exterior panel joints etc and I would highly recommend it. It's easy to use, quick drying and stays flexible.

All you need do it paint over it in primer before paint

[mike.]

Do you apply it to bare metal then?

Also will it work ok if I apply it with a gun and then force it into seams and gaps using my finger?

[sonikk4]

Treat the metal first with krust even if its not rusty then seal over it. If you seal over paint it will more than likely react especially with etch primer. Once its hardened then prime and paint as normal.

If you use an aircraft sealant like Pro seal, Thiokol, PRC, or Sem kits then you can use them on primer but still recommend to be used on bare metal

[liam_italian]

I etched and the primered my panels first, had no problem with reactions.

[sonikk4]

I etched and the primered my panels first, had no problem with reactions.

Mine split like you would not believe and this was over etch primer in the middle of winter. Lots of frustration until i used aircraft sealant then no problems.

[mike.]

Ok thanks.

And will it work ok applying it from a tigerseal gun and then pressing it into gaps by hand?

I'm dubious to how good the seal will be if I just apply it along the seams and joints and just leave it, I want to press it in and smear it over them so I know its sealed

[midridge2]

tiger seal as with a lot of other sealers can be used on bare/primed/painted metal and then painted over, check the instructions on other sealers but with tiger seal the above applies.

brush sealer looks terrible in areas were it is seen, tube sealers look like a factory finish, when applied tube sealer is used you just use a finger dipped in washing up liqued to smooth it over or pushed into gaps.

body shops prime the area first then add sealer and then paint over, depending on the type of sealer used.
i have never heard of tiger seal reacting with paint/primmer etc, unless some thing out of the norm was used before.

[sonikk4]

tiger seal as with a lot of other sealers can be used on bare/primed/painted metal and then painted over, check the instructions on other sealers but with tiger seal the above applies.

brush sealer looks terrible in areas were it is seen, tube sealers look like a factory finish, when applied tube sealer is used you just use a finger dipped in washing up liqued to smooth it over or pushed into gaps.

body shops prime the area first then add sealer and then paint over, depending on the type of sealer used.
i have never heard of tiger seal reacting with paint/primmer etc, unless some thing out of the norm was used before.

No pictures to back up my statement i'm afraid but believe me it took Scott and me some time to remove it. It was possible due to the very cold temperature in the garage the chemicals in the etch primer and primer had not evaporated properly. I have used it since on bare metal with no issues on Paddy.

[Nic]

you are ment to apply the seam sealer over etch primed metal, if you stick to one paint company then you should be fine. i use u-pol so get it to bear metal, etch prime it with either type of there etch primers that come in a can and use the seam seal over the top, either tiger seal or grey stripe both are made by u-pol. the tiger seal is good for panel joins, like the front wings and scuttle where its going to show, the the brushable stuff (grey stripe) is good for larger bits or where you have patched the panel. i have to disagree with tiger seal looking more like a factory finish most of the original seam seal on minis is either sprayed on or brushed on have a look at other panel joins in you car, the stuff in the engine bay and boot is brushed on from the factory.

[midridge2]

the only sealer i have ever seen/used sprayed on a car from the mini era is a two pack type that was used on renaults and it was more like a caulking sealer. it comes out really thick.

[mike.]

Ok thanks for the advice guys.

So which is better for what i'm trying to do?

I'm sealing those joints where i've had repair patches put in and along the rear bumper lip, as rust is starting to form between the rear valance and bumper lip joint.

[midridge2]

personally i would use seam sealer in a tube as its more controllable than using a brush and seam sealer in a tin.