40 replies to this topic

[Revan239]

No that's fine thanks a lot

[dklawson]

Since this is something you are not familiar with, I suggest that prior to taking anything off, photograph what is there now and photograph again after each part you remove.  The cables have a bit of an adjustement to them.  You may save yourself a bit of time by holding a scale/ruler against the cables when you photograph them so you know how much was "sticking out" past their attachment points.  A few steps like this may save you a bit of time when putting things back together.  Also... the carb has mixture adjustements... don't alter the mixture adjustement screws on the carb unless you have to. 

[Revan239]

Yeah sorry I already had it off, followed the manuals instructions fine I'm at the point where everything is back on bar the return spring now I should of done what you said but I can't remember how/where the spring attaches to the accelerator arm there only seems to be one hole and that is obviously for the accelerator cable, any clues? Thanks.

[Revan239]

And forgot to post but removing the carb was null in-void as there is no fuel getting to the damper pot the pot was bone dry after I tried turning it a couple of times, I suspect the pump may be at fault ? Any ideas? Thanks.

[dklawson]

After three pages I am not sure which problems remain.  I believe on page 1 we started with problems with the starter motor and the focus is now on the fuel system.

 

Have you gotten the starter working?

 

You mentioned earlier that a family member had suggested you disconnect the fuel line and aim the hose into a catch jar while a friend turned the engine over on the starter.  Do that test.  If you have fuel pumped into the catch jar the pump works.

 

In your last post you refer to the damper pot and no fuel inside.  I am unsure which carb you have but the terminology is not right.  The damper is the oil filled assembly that slows the rise of the carb piston.  Fuel does not go in it.  If you have an HS series SU carb there is a bowl on the side of the carburetor and it has a lid with at least one hose connected.  The lid is secured by three screws.  Fuel is pumped in until the bowl is full and further fuel flow is stopped by the closure of the float valve.  Fuel flows by gravity from the bowl into the jet.  Air flow through the carb throat creates a vacuum as it passes through the venturi and that draws fuel from the float bowl, out the jet, and into the engine.   You can check the level of fuel in the float bowl by removing the three screws securing the bowl lid and removing the lid.

 

If you have a later HIF type carb the float bowl is "horizontally integrated" and is located below the carb body.  I know of no way to check the float level in an HIF carb.  If that's the type of carb you have, hopefully someone more familiar with them will make a helpful post.

[Revan239]

Yes the starter works it turned out to be the brushes!, anyway sorry about that yeah it's not the damper pot it's the float bowl on the side and sorry it's a hs4 carburettor inch and a half, and I done that test and nothing came out of the pipe, so to make sure that my car actually works I filled the float bowl and it started and worked fine I then had to turn it off before it started to combust air haha! But I suspect that the fuel pump might be at fault? It's mechanical like I said maybe the diaphragm is torn or the filter is blocked? Thanks a lot!

[Revan239]

Sorry the make of carb is an SU

[dklawson]

Others can advise you on the best method of replacing a mechanical fuel pump.  My car's pump is electrical so I am not familiar with the tricks of accessing the pump on the back of the engine block. 

 

However, before you buy a pump make a few tests.  First (and do not take offense) use a flashlight to confirm that you have fuel in the tank.  (Seriously... look, don't trust the fuel gauge).  When you know there is fuel in the tank, look for any inline filters between the tank and the fuel pump.  Replace any you find.  At the same time, inspect the line from the tank to the pump looking for any areas where it might be crushed.  If you find no fuel pipe damage and filter replacement does not address this, I suggest disconnecting the inlet line from the fuel pump.  If there is fuel in the tank it will start to drain out as soon as you disconnect the line so be prepared to re-connect it and don't freak out when gas comes out.  If disconnecting the fuel line at the pump allows fuel to drain from the tank you have at least confirmed that the fuel line to the pump is open and clear and that the problem is likely the pump.  It won't take long to make these checks and it may prevent you from buying parts you don't need.

[Revan239]

Thanks a lot and I know I won't haha! I've already been and had a look inside the tank and there is sufficient fuel to do her long enough however I will perform these other checks tonight, thanks for the heads up!

[Revan239]

You will not believe what was wrong, turns out hpthe rubber seal on top of the fuel pump was perished and was spilling petrol out over the manifold ! So I shall be renewing that! Thanks for the help dk Lawson !

[dklawson]

I'm glad you found the problem and thanks for posting what you found wrong !