18 replies to this topic

[biker1981]

Ok... A bit of the floor is wrotten, andI have the pannel for this.

I just need to know the crack with sill... only been a mini owner for a day.

I know I need a Inner and outer sill... but what the crack with the wide outer sill and short ones etc.... also do i need the door step bit? also been told about sills with the inner and outer already together... are these alot easier?

Is there a way round this should be done..... if i did them seperate... i.e do i just cut it all out and start with the inner and outer then the floor? any help appreciated as my head hurts.

Edited by biker1981, 17 June 2011 - 07:31 PM.

[v21ash]

Maybe tone it down a bit

Inner sill first, then outer sill, only a door step if it's needed and avoid the wide oversills like the plague. You can get the inner and outer sill complete but it's easier to fit them seperate.

Some pictures would help to see how far you need to go with it.

[biker1981]

Maybe tone it down a bit

Inner sill first, then outer sill, only a door step if it's needed and avoid the wide oversills like the plague. You can get the inner and outer sill complete but it's easier to fit them seperate.

Some pictures would help to see how far you need to go with it.

sorry my IT skills, are as poor as my mini knowledge

[v21ash]

Maybe tone it down a bit

Inner sill first, then outer sill, only a door step if it's needed and avoid the wide oversills like the plague. You can get the inner and outer sill complete but it's easier to fit them seperate.

Some pictures would help to see how far you need to go with it.

sorry my IT skills, are as poor as my mini knowledge

That font made my head hurt lol

[lrostoke]

The inner sill is bascially part of the floor, from new its one panel.

The outer sill welds to the seam line that runs along the lower side of the car, and the inside edge of the sill welds to the angled section of the innersill / floor

The different widths of sill is confusing because some are oversills , not original design and generally frowned upon.

The correct sill to use is the 4.5" sill with the flutes in it for drainage



The area around the door step is 3 panels.

Innersill which like mentioned is part of the floor

Doorstep, then outer sill

The picture below shows a new floorpan which includes inner sill, the red bit is obviously the old doorstep. The the picture further back shows the outer sill welded to that

[sonikk4]

If the floor is really bad then replace the quarter, if its just a small section then cut that piece out and replace.

Normally a replacement floor section comes with the inner sill section as part of it. You can utilise this or like previously mentioned change the whole inner sill section.

The reason why i would go for the inner and outer sill combination is the ease of it more than anything else. This way you can install the whole assembly in one shot rather than messing around doing one at a time. When the assembly is in then you can do the door step without having to mess around with any bracing.

The big problem with replacing a complete inner sill is the inner sill stiffener in the companion bin as access there is very tight.
It is possible but very awkward.

Also there is the price, you can buy the outer sill and inner section cheaper and then go that way if money is tight or make your own inner sill. You will need a new jacking point as well.

The other issue with oversills are they are not as structurally strong as a standard 4.5" sill plus unless you cut some drain holes in them moisture can build up staring the corrosion process all over again. There have been many many discussions about the merits of oversills on this forum so at the end of the day its entirely your choice what you want to fit to your car but listen to the many people who advise against using them, they are not saying it for the hell of it.

Both Irostoke's pictures and the pictures in the Project Erm link show you quite clearly how to go about doing the job, utilise them that's what they are there for and any questions ask away.

Start a thread in the complete mini rebuild section and keep updating it that way it flows better than keep adding individual threads.

Edited by sonikk4, 17 June 2011 - 07:56 PM.

[biker1981]

Thanks thats really helped.....

I bought a floor panel... so think this has some inner sill that will cover the hole in the inner sill ( so would i just do the floor bit first then the outter?... as for the outersill its wrotten...

So if it previously had oversill put on ....does it have to have them back on?

Also the jackong point is wrotten.. am i correct in thinking this is sepereate.

So if my door step bit is ok... do i cut around it and weld to it?





I will take some better pics tommorow... but here is some

Attached Files

•  2.jpg   80.11K   32 downloads
•  photo12.jpg   1.1MB   35 downloads

Edited by biker1981, 17 June 2011 - 07:56 PM.

[sonikk4]

If the door step is solid then leave it alone. All because it has had an oversill fitted you DO NOT have to fit another . It will only have been fitted to cover the rust, that is what they are normally used for.

Yes the jacking point is separate so fit it after the inner sill is repaired/replaced.

The sills are spot welded to the door step so all you need to do is carefully drill out the spot welds causing as little damage as possible. Then you can either spot weld or plug weld the new sills to the door step.

Edited by sonikk4, 17 June 2011 - 08:01 PM.

[biker1981]

If the floor is really bad then replace the quarter, if its just a small section then cut that piece out and replace.

Normally a replacement floor section comes with the inner sill section as part of it. You can utilise this or like previously mentioned change the whole inner sill section.

The reason why i would go for the inner and outer sill combination is the ease of it more than anything else. This way you can install the whole assembly in one shot rather than messing around doing one at a time. When the assembly is in then you can do the door step without having to mess around with any bracing.

The big problem with replacing a complete inner sill is the inner sill stiffener in the companion bin as access there is very tight.
It is possible but very awkward.

Also there is the price, you can buy the outer sill and inner section cheaper and then go that way if money is tight or make your own inner sill. You will need a new jacking point as well.

The other issue with oversills are they are not as structurally strong as a standard 4.5" sill plus unless you cut some drain holes in them moisture can build up staring the corrosion process all over again. There have been many many discussions about the merits of oversills on this forum so at the end of the day its entirely your choice what you want to fit to your car but listen to the many people who advise against using them, they are not saying it for the hell of it.

Both Irostoke's pictures and the pictures in the Project Erm link show you quite clearly how to go about doing the job, utilise them that's what they are there for and any questions ask away.

Start a thread in the complete mini rebuild section and keep updating it that way it flows better than keep adding individual threads.

thanks mate... the mini parts place you recommended is in my own town... i wouldn't have never known unless you said )

Edited by biker1981, 17 June 2011 - 08:02 PM.

[lrostoke]

It all depends which panels you want to use, but I'll try explain how Ive done mine, its no better than anybody elses method just what suited me

Start by removing the outer sill completely, doesn't matter if genuine or oversill.
I use a 4.5" cutting disk and just follow the seam line underneath it the full length of the car. Then cut vertically at each end, you can then peel the sill down, which should show where the inner edge is welded. Normally they are that rusty just bending up and down snaps them off.

I then move to the front pan. On last 3 we've just replaced the pans, the panels dirt cheap and it looks so much tidier than loads of patches

How much you cut off the original car is upto you, I leave enough good metal to do a lap joint.

When you see the panels it will make more sense how they fit.

Then move to the rear of the car wether you can make patchs or need to replace whole panels depends on the rot. If a lot I'd buy a rearfloor panel.

Once the floor is finished the outer sill welds to that. Use the sill shown in photo further back.

[JonnyAlpha]

The inner sill is bascially part of the floor, from new its one panel.

The outer sill welds to the seam line that runs along the lower side of the car, and the inside edge of the sill welds to the angled section of the innersill / floor

The different widths of sill is confusing because some are oversills , not original design and generally frowned upon.

The correct sill to use is the 4.5" sill with the flutes in it for drainage



The area around the door step is 3 panels.

Innersill which like mentioned is part of the floor

Doorstep, then outer sill

The picture below shows a new floorpan which includes inner sill, the red bit is obviously the old doorstep. The the picture further back shows the outer sill welded to that

Sorry to bump this thread but its relevant

LROSTOKE

In your first picture you have replaced part of the Heelboard. I need to replace my Inner and Outer Sills and I know that the bolts holding the SubFrame to the rear heel board will be siezed. When I last did a repair I noticed that inside the rear of the Sill is a bracket that these bolts secure into. I have searched for the bracket and only found it on the Somerford site but its been discontinued and you have to buy the Half Heelboard Repair section that comes with the bracket (Somerford Mini P/N HMP441007). Iv'e seen the one you fitted for sale (MOSS MBH9018) but they don't appear to come with the SubFrame Mount, just nuts (welded to the panel)? The Somerford Half Heelboard is £27.50 the MOSS Healboard Repair panel is £13.50. If you fit a MOSS Heelboard Repair Panel do you not need the SubFrame Mounting Bracket?

Thanks

[lrostoke]

Hi mate Im not sure exactly what you mean, that half is a heritage genuine panel.



You can see in this picture the captive nuts and the strengthening section which is part of it that welds to the innersill/floor
This is a different car than previous picture we put a new rear floor in this one
hope that helps a bit

Edited by lrostoke, 18 June 2011 - 01:25 PM.

[Ethel]

Since a Mini has no chassis, that bit of the body is a box section & part of the car's structure. Originally it was 3 bits of metal:

The inner sill, which is just the edge of the floor pan folded up when new.

The door step (part of the original body side), or a closing panel in the back where there's no door opening.

The outer sill provides the bottom & outer wall of the box.


Unfortunately the box section is in the firing line of the crud thrown up by the wheels so is one of the first bits to rust - hence all the various repair panels. As long as your combination of panels recreates that box section all should be good. The outer sill should be one piece to maintain strength.

It's a good idea to replace bits of the box one at a time to avoid body distortion. E.g. if you needed a new doorstep & outer sill; attach the new step to the inner sill before fully removing the outer sill.

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi mate Im not sure exactly what you mean, that half is a heritage genuine panel.



You can see in this picture the captive nuts and the strengthening section which is part of it that welds to the innersill/floor
This is a different car than previous picture we put a new rear floor in this one
hope that helps a bit

From your pics it looks like the MOSS supplied or similiar repair panel with captive nuts is what I need however the reason for my confusion is when we last did a patch repair on the outersill we cut away a section at the rear where the sub frame bolts into and this revealed a bracket welded to the inner sill.
In the Somerford catalogue its listed here

And the superceding part is here

[lrostoke]

That 2nd panel is what I used, Although didn't use the full length to save welding.

That bracket section sits on the outside of the floor/sill. Can be seen in my picture