185 replies to this topic

[M1n1Mad]

Wire feed, max and min rocker switch , on off rocker switch and 3 position rotary switch.

[sonikk4]

Wire feed, max and min rocker switch , on off rocker switch and 3 position rotary switch.

 

Ok wire feed speed try 6 or 7, rocker switch set to max and rotary to one. If that is no good and you keep burning holes try upping the wire speed or drop the rocker switch to min.   

[M1n1Mad]

Cheers. Should i try .6mm wire too?

[sonikk4]

Yes i have always used 0.6mm wire for car bodywork. If i was welding heavy chassis's then i would go up to 0.8mm.

[M1n1Mad]

Should i have a gas mix? I.e argon and co2. Ive been using just co2.

[sonikk4]

I used CO2 for years and years and always got good quality welds. I now use a Argon CO2 mix from BOC Argo shield light.

 

Personally i would use either although i have not done back to back comparison tests i cannot comment on which is best.

[zony]

Brilliant thread. Is there a how to remove and weld on new panels.

 

I need a whole new front end , A panels forward plus scuttle and need a bit of advice on best way to remove them and what pitfalls to look out for.

 

I did the half boot floor valance and hinge panel replacement last year. Very enjoyable.

 

Also any supplier of panels better than the other, any to avoid, is heritage or genuine really best.

 

Many thanks

[alex-95]

Have a look in the projects section for fitting the panels, sonikk4's projects threads (in his sig) are reasonably helpful.

 

Genuine panels are best really but if you can't afford them the other non gen usually just need more fitting. The main thing to buy genuine is the scuttle, the non gen aren't that good.

[sonikk4]

Brilliant thread. Is there a how to remove and weld on new panels.

 

I need a whole new front end , A panels forward plus scuttle and need a bit of advice on best way to remove them and what pitfalls to look out for.

 

I did the half boot floor valance and hinge panel replacement last year. Very enjoyable.

 

Also any supplier of panels better than the other, any to avoid, is heritage or genuine really best.

 

Many thanks

 

For me if you are changing the complete front end i would cut the panels off close to the various flanges. Then drill out the spot welds to get back to the mating flanges.

 

Now the A panels i would grind down the rear edge until it splits. Run your grinder up the side of the A panel to find the spot welds that attach the panel to the A post flange. also you will need to carefully grind down the top weld on the A panel.

 

With the front panels off offer up your new scuttle to the old one by laying it on top. make a mark on the windscreen posts then cut at least 1/2" to 1" below the line.

Carefully drill out all of the spot welds that attach the scuttle to the windscreen flange and also the flanges that run up the outside of the pillars. Now go down to the scuttle closeouts and remove those. You should be able to remove the scuttle.

 

Now have a good look at the inner wings front and rear, check under the shock absorber mounts as well. once you are happy the area is all removed then you can start to offer your panels up for trial fitting starting with the scuttle. Don't forget to fit your front subframe if removed to ensure the front panel is in the right place. Everything will go off this.

 

The one thing to remember with the scuttle once fitted is to trial fit the windscreen before paint.

[Pipe Dreamer]

Looking at the butt welds, is there are reason to have a gap between the panels, other than to get the welding clamps between the two panels?

 

And any opinions on electric nibblers or electric mini belt sanders, as opposed to air tools?

[alex-95]

The gap for butt welds is to give a better weld penetration on the two peices of metal.

 

Not sure on the nibblers, only I would say that tin snips are easiest to use cutting sheet metal. do you mean something like a Black and Decker powerfile? If so they are very good.

[sonikk4]

Not only does the gap allow for better penetration of the weld if the metal was to be touching then the heat generated will force the edges together and ridge. You grind the weld flat and you will more than likely either thin the metal or go through.

[Pipe Dreamer]

I hadn't thought about expansion, but that makes sense. As does the penetration.

 

Good to know the Powerfile is good.

 

 

The thing I forgot about with nibblers till just now was the nibbler attachments for electric drills: by far the cheapest option, and easiest to store.

Things like this look good in the hands of salesmen, but in the hands of a real world amateur workshop monkey like me?

[sonikk4]

I hadn't thought about expansion, but that makes sense. As does the penetration.

 

Good to know the Powerfile is good.

 

 

The thing I forgot about with nibblers till just now was the nibbler attachments for electric drills: by far the cheapest option, and easiest to store.

Things like this look good in the hands of salesmen, but in the hands of a real world amateur workshop monkey like me?

 

I had one of these but it did not last long. Although i have not bought any yet i will be buying some air shears. We use these at work and they do work well.

[pothole]

I have a few patches to do on my mini, I have practiced using the great advice in this thread, but what is the best way to cut out the section that needs replacing and making a perfect plate to fit into the cut out section to create a butt weld. For example fitting a plate in the boot or rear quarter section.