185 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

12:-Power setting on a Clarke 135 TE Turbo, this setting is for pulse welding and seam welding on .8mm steel sheet

Is that really 8m m steel? Where is that likely to be found on a mini? Or is it a typo

Very good source of information though

H

As already mentioned it is 0.8mm steel i did not put the 0 in front of the . Damn caught out

My bad folks (hangs head in shame) the standard thickness for most mini panels is 0.9mm although other peeps have used 0.8mm. Sorry about that, had a senior moment.

[sonikk4]

Sorry about that AndyMiniMad but at least you got Haggis built with the kit you had.

To be honest when i restored my RS i had a few pairs of mole grips and a handful of 1/8th skin pins and a hand held joggling tool and managed with that so it can be done without a lot of kit.

To be truthful there is so much equipment out there you could use but it can cost a huge amount of money especially if you are on a budget.

Most of the things i have listed are reasonably cheap and very easy to get which was the whole idea around it. I'm glad the thread has been of use to members and as and when i find something else of use i will add it.

I'm still waiting for my mate's spot welder so i can add that as well just to show what needs to be done etc.

Medtransportation thanks for the comment, when time allows i might try to do one about bending sheet steel using stuff that you have around the garage without bend bars etc. Most folk can do this already but just give ideas about what you can do with bits of timber, old work surfaces etc.

[jakejakejake1]

I think that would be useful, a guide to shaping the metal so that it can be used. I'm sure most people could get by with a hammer and some wood blocks but it would be nice to have a guide where tips and tricks can be shared to help beginners (Like me:) )

Jake

[sonikk4]

I think that would be useful, a guide to shaping the metal so that it can be used. I'm sure most people could get by with a hammer and some wood blocks but it would be nice to have a guide where tips and tricks can be shared to help beginners (Like me:) )

Jake

Cheers Jake, i've got a few days off the end of this month so as i need to fab a new panel on Paddy i will try and do something then.

[Goacher65]

I do apologise, only using a small laptop, the text is small enough, let alone seeing the full stops! .

[sonikk4]

I should have mentioned a little bit more about personal protection as well.

Most of us will have welded our cars in just jeans and a t shirt and have suffered for it so you really do need a good pair of overalls, a good quality pair of welding gloves and wear safety boots. Having suffered a nasty burn on my foot many years ago from a blob of molten metal whilst wearing trainers (a retarded moment of my behalf) i always wear safety boots now for any welding jobs.

All of the above can be bought cheaply enough. Also for the less follically challenged of us and the not so follically challenged some sort of head protection would be recommended as well.

[coopersmate]

An excellent post, I look forward to getting my welding up to scratch, and then back on the road for l2b

[Msmith3327]

Excellent thread, I have managed to get a MIG, a Mask and some clamps and thought to myself wooh of we go but then I went to buy the sheet metel and felt a right plonker . The sheets are 1.2 or 0.9 mm thick, but what is the best steel to buy and what thickness goes where on the car?

Edited by Msmith3327, 22 February 2012 - 06:17 PM.

[tiger99]

0.9mm for most of the body, 1.2mm for more highly stressed parts. If in doubt, have a look at what is already there. Your heelboard, for instance, will be 1.2mm. The difference is quite obvious, as long as you pick a place on the panel in question which is not too badly rusted.

The internal stiffners in the sills, including heelboard nut brackets, slinging brackets, and the slinging shoes on the floor, A pillar hinge stiffner, are all 1.2, as are probably the rear subframe rear mount stiffners, rear seat front support, and more other bits than I can remember right now. But the large panels are all 0.9.

So you will need lots of 0.9 and a lesser quantity of 1.2.

Edited by tiger99, 27 February 2012 - 06:45 PM.

[sonikk4]

As for buying sheet steel try some local machine shops or your local Thompson directory to see if there is anything local. I use a local machine shop in Hailsham for my metal needs. The 1.2mm sheet i buy has a coating on it that not so prone to rusting and also welds really well.

[Msmith3327]

Cool, Cheers peeps. people on here are a crackingly helpfull bunch.

[sonikk4]

We aim to please

[JonnyBMX]

with regards to welding in a t shirt :) i shall post up a picture that will put you all off that! as back when i first started welding i did about 30 seconds welding on a high setting and my arm was RED! picture soon to come :)

[mattw92]

12:-Power setting on a Clarke 135 TE Turbo, this setting is for pulse welding and seam welding on .8mm steel sheet

Hey excellent thread!, whats the minimum Clark welder that can be purchased to do mini body work on ? or is it this one?


Matt

Edited by mattw92, 13 May 2012 - 02:44 PM.

[sonikk4]

There are lower powered one available but i believe this is the lowest power one with a fan that allows you weld for longer periods of time.

This particular model had quite a good range of flexibility with regards to welding thin and thicker steel. I recently used mine at max power to weld some 50mm box section with a wall thickness of 2.5mm and it handled it with ease. It will easily weld 1/4" thick steel.