406 replies to this topic

[ibrooks]

In theory moving them isn't a problem. If the resulting move moves the bottom ball joint backwards of forwards then it has changed the castor. You might be able to change the length of the arms to get the correct castor with them mounted in a different place. What they absolutely MUST be though is symmetrical.

 

Iain

[l_jonez]

They pretty much got tho be in the correct position but Allspeed  do move the tie rod mounts then use adjustable tie rods to compensate 

 

 

Do your self a favor and make a jig before cutting anything. 

[lucas1amps]

They pretty much got tho be in the correct position but Allspeed  do move the tie rod mounts then use adjustable tie rods to compensate 

 

 

Do your self a favor and make a jig before cutting anything. 

yes don't do what I did and accidently cut the sodding sub frame in half! didn't bother with a jig wish I did now but the frame will work  after a lot of messing around!:)

[jonot2008]

Ahh ok well i guess ill have to make a jig then, so the way it works is you make the jig around the subrame and bolt the tie rod mounts to the jig?

so they're in the right position as long as the jig is solid?

 

I think i could handle that, but i was out looking at the subframe earlier and the tie rod mounts are at an angle that id find difficult welding to the box section for the front section of the frame, also the diff casing out the back is going to be tight!! almost hits the bottom of the bulkhead/floorpan!

 

sorry if any of the questions seem stupid its just ive never done anything custom like this before, also i dont want to have to buy another subframe ;)

 

Thanks alot,

Jon

[lucas1amps]

cut the mounts off the mini frame and reuse them that's what I did

[lucas1amps]

http://i874.photobuc...zpsb952b395.jpg

[l_jonez]

Make a jig (nice solid welds) around your frame and bolt it in.

 

if you look at the tie rod mounts they are welded onto the frame and can be cut off,  the front frame mounting point is incorporated into the tie rod mount, so once you have the bracket cut off the frame you can bolt it to the jig knowing its in the right place then build the frame around it 

[jonot2008]

Thanks alot everybody, ive got a lot better understanding now you mention the front mounts being on the tie rod mount.

ill make a jig as soon as i get the materials. ill let you know how i get on, would put a thread up but its going to be a slow one.

 

Also, for anyone still to have driveshafts made, i went looking at my old metro subframe earlier and the driveshafts are thinner than the mini ones,

so probably easier to make/ less to machine down. also means i can keep my mini driveshafts intact :)

 

Thanks

Jon

[l_jonez]

I used micra shafts, they use the same splines on the cv joints as the mini. It's a simple cut and weld job

Edited by l_jonez, 17 May 2013 - 07:47 AM.

[l_jonez]

Looks like the ITB's line up well

[jonot2008]

Ah went out today and removed micra cv's from driveshafts and mini cv's but they won't fit, micra shaft has 22 splines mini has 19 then read that the 1.0 has 19 but mines a 1.3 oh well, metro driveshafts it is. They actually like the same diameter, ill have to check with the vernier tomorrow.

[fuzzy-hair-man]

Looks like the ITB's line up well

That's exciting!!! What are the throttle bodies from? I know Jenvey do some that can be used on the Micra but they were expensive.

 

They look to line up really well! Keep us informed with how it goes.

[l_jonez]

Their from a Suzuki gsxr750

[fuzzy-hair-man]

Their from a Suzuki gsxr750

Thanks, (I looked on your micra.uk thread just after posting  )

Just curious how you go about selecting an appropriate size for throttle bodies or bike carbs?

As a guess:

 

the GSR-X Y(with injection) had a redline at 15500rpm (specs online) so 15500 x .750 means the engine flows 11625 litres per minute (that's a lot of air)

 

11625 / 1.275 = 9117 rpm.

So if the throttle bodies were the limiting factor in terms of flow(no reason to suspect this) on the micra you should be OK to 9117 rpm which is probably more than enough for anything other than an all out racer.

 

Or do you look at horse power delivered and as long as that matches your target your good, I guess it all comes down to airflow anyway.... might have answered my own question there...

[l_jonez]

Pretty much answered it :) but I also looked at port spacing.

My engine is 1330 wich if I remember brings max rpm to 8.7 not that I'm ever going to hit that.