41 replies to this topic

[new_zealand _minis]

you can get the aem gauge cheaper if you buy it from ebay us . and it has free shipping . you might wait abit longer but thats about it

oh my bad that is from the us lol

thats what im getting . on its way now .

i got a cheap one . but it was no good . shuld of got good one to start !!!

Edited by new_zealand _minis, 27 May 2011 - 09:31 AM.

[minotaur]

ok , just ordered, worked out 122 uk pounds inc delivery, if you go direct to shop they offer cheaper options , exchange rate and all that, thanks for all the input everybody, once all is fitted ill post a review

[lrostoke]

Good price that and for people who do like to fiddle a useful bit of kit.

I suppose with something like that and megajolt ignition you could have hours of fun changing settings

[Ethel]

Anyone got any thoughts on the best sensor location? I guess you could opt to sense just the inboard or outer cylinders with an LCB, though the sensor may cause a bit of a restriction in the narrower pipe.


You could link it to the MJ as it has a 5v analogue out & the 'jolt has 5v analogue in. It would certainly let you data-log AFR on the MJ. The problem with trying to modify the ignition timing from it is that the AFR is from a previous engine condition and you'd be modifying the next one, you could easily end up chasing your own tail.

[minotaur]

instructions http://www.aemelectr.....s 30-4100.pdf

[Turbo Nick]

Anyone got any thoughts on the best sensor location? I guess you could opt to sense just the inboard or outer cylinders with an LCB, though the sensor may cause a bit of a restriction in the narrower pipe.


You could link it to the MJ as it has a 5v analogue out & the 'jolt has 5v analogue in. It would certainly let you data-log AFR on the MJ. The problem with trying to modify the ignition timing from it is that the AFR is from a previous engine condition and you'd be modifying the next one, you could easily end up chasing your own tail.

mines linked into my megajolt for logging purposes and it'll back the timing off if the mixture leans out.

we've always just put the sensor in the link pipe as its a heated sensor anyway and it makes the cable routing up through the gear lever hole nice and easy.

[998dave]

Oxygen sensors are heated, for a mini I'd put it underfloor after the Y-piece, probably just behind the gear selector as there should be room there.

You'll have to fit a lambda sensor bung and the sensor should be fitted so that it points up at more then 10% from the horizontal, this is to allow drainage of exhaust condensate.

You should ensure the sensor tip is parallel to the direction of flow, as the turbulence round the sensor then helps pull the gas out of the exit hole, and ensure the sensor picks up on changes as quickly as possible.

Dave

[mini13]

I didnt link gauge from the us because although they are cheaper you might get charged import duty.


Mounting wise, put the sensor jsur after the Y peice of the LCB, suposedly you are nto meant to put them too close to a turbo, but there are sooo many mounted 3-5" from the turbo that havent died it seems not to be to much of an issue.

[mini13]

yep,

reading mixture from plugs = candle light...

widebande gauge = 150w lightbulb.

ie, no comparison lol

Why do you want to do this? Just look at the colour of the plugs to check the running mixture.

hahahahaha, in 1950 this may have been a perfectly reasonable way of checking the mixture. But I assure you if you put a wideband AFR gauge on you will see how poor fuelling by carbs is. There is a BIG differance between a car feeling right and actually being right.

Plug colour really tells you very little, how can it possibly tell you if the mixture is weak at a certain load point, or rich on cruise?

Colour tunes are little better, they tell you the mixture at idle only.

Use an AFR wideband and not only will you be able to get the mixture spot on for power but you will be able to sort a nice lean cruise achieving better MPG (all within the limits of the carb of course, which is always a compromise)

[MiniLandy]

I'vegot one of these, incredibly handy for picking up problems with your fuelling before they do damage. Or in my case, ignoring them until your headgasket lets go, and then realising that the lean fuelling caused it.

You should ensure the sensor tip is parallel to the direction of flow, as the turbulence round the sensor then helps pull the gas out of the exit hole, and ensure the sensor picks up on changes as quickly as possible.

I don't understand what you mean here?

I'm going to move mine at some point, it's currently in the y peiece, but i had to cut away a bit of the gear linkage to make it fit. Anyone got pics of it being mounted near the gear change mech?

[Sprocket]

[new_zealand _minis]

i fitted mine in the y peice . it shuls be as close as poss to the manifold where all exhaust ports are going into it . so far forward on the y ... i put mine freety much flat . shuld not cause to many problems

[Racer_Pete]

quick question, does it come with the bit you need to weld into the manifold for the oxygen sensor?

[BeardedMidget]

quick question, does it come with the bit you need to weld into the manifold for the oxygen sensor?

Most kits usually include the lambda boss but if not you can buy them from ebay or wherever. You need an M18x1.5 one.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item5d2eea887c

Edited by BeardedMidget, 28 May 2011 - 09:30 PM.

[Turbo Nick]

iirc mine did, but they're less than a tenner on ebay for mild or stainless with a bung if you remove it.