Austin Mini Van Bare Metal Rebuild
#106
Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:15 AM
Need to do the same to the drivers side tonight.
As you can see there are a number of dents in the pocket so will also need to bash n fill them before paint.
Will I be better off priming the door frames first without the skin on though?
#107
Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:16 AM
#108
Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:13 AM
Its not bad but I've only got one clamp and I was having to bend it round a piece of wood as I don't have a vice.
#109
Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:35 AM
Got abit of time in on the passenger door Friday afternoon. Its not pretty but its strong enough and you wont see it. Also got 2 new skins at Stanford Hall yesterday.
Need to do the same to the drivers side tonight.
As you can see there are a number of dents in the pocket so will also need to bash n fill them before paint.
Will I be better off priming the door frames first without the skin on though?
Yes do prime the mating edges and paint it as well. Where you need to spot weld you can leave these areas as bare metal. The same applies inside the skin ( see my reply to your PM Matt.
When the skin is on seal all of the folded edges and then get some waxoyl inside the door.
The skins i took of the Cooper had rust on all of the mating flanges so to prevent that from reoccurring i would tip the door on its side then waxoyl, turn it on its other side then waxoyl and then again for the last edge.
Just looking at the bottom of the door the drain holes are there but in a different place compared to newer doors. It might be worth drilling three holes into the radius of the mating flange to let water drain out there as well.
#110
Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:51 AM
#111
Posted 17 September 2012 - 09:54 AM
Things to do are -
1, Finish off welding up rear doors rub down and paint.
2, Bash out the dents in the pockets on the front doors and paint.
3, Weld in a patch to the passenger side toe board.
4, Make a start on the heal board.
5, Probably find another 10 things to do that I wont have time for.
#112
Posted 23 September 2012 - 04:48 PM
I had welded in the lower edge panel that I'd made, the fit isn't that bad but will need a small skim of filter to address a few pin holes.
However I made the lip slightly too small where it met with the door skin flange. This is where I tried to fill the gap with weld which resulted in getting the panel to hot and warping the skin on the outside of the door. Although it's unclear from the picture towards the corner edge there is a dip in the panel.
While cursing myself for nackering the skin I saw that there where a few spots of rust veins so ground them back and was left with this.
Now this is either a helped or hindered the situation.
Would you say that the skin has rusted too far and needs to be changed anyway also curing the warping problem?
One last photo of the doors resting in place.
Also knocked the bents out of the pocket in the drivers door and etch primed it but didn't get any photos.
Edited by SAL 821X, 23 September 2012 - 04:58 PM.
#113
Posted 24 September 2012 - 03:59 PM
My man cave.
Rear door I picked up off ebay had a sticker on the rear so took a picture for histories sake.
I remember Sonik saying that the ecoat can peel on the edges when folding it round the door frame. So decided to rub the edges down then go over the hole lot with 240grit.
That little lot took a couple of hours this morning so this afternoon I got onto the etch primer.
Will have to do the other side's another day once they've dried.
#114
Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:17 AM
However I've now become a bit stuck as to what to do next with the passenger sill. While working on cleaning up the heel board section ready to repair it, I found that there is a lot of material between the inner and outer sills.
Not sure if I should cut off the sill to find out whats in there or not?
And this is what I managed to pull out but only a quarter of whats in there.
#115
Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:21 AM
This is the section of the rear load deck where the door locks. I'm struggling to find a repair panel for this?
#116
Posted 07 October 2012 - 11:21 AM
#117
Posted 08 October 2012 - 07:49 AM
#118
Posted 09 October 2012 - 01:24 PM
But I've spent most of my lunch trying to find the cheapest place to get lower side panels from.
EG - http://www.somerford...roducts_id=1035
Not from SF mini's though as there about the dearest there is.
How easy/hard are they to fit? I'm sure I saw someone having them fitted recently to a build thread on here.
Would be so much easier for me than having to repair and blend the sides in again.
#119
Posted 09 October 2012 - 01:26 PM
#120
Posted 09 October 2012 - 05:18 PM
Regarding your rear door, I had the holes in the bottom of the skin too, I ended up buying a replacement lower section from Minispares are cutting out and replacing the lower end of the door, it was fairly cheap and while the door was cut, we jigged it square then welded it back together.
The rear panels I have also had done to mine, might have been my thread you saw.
Admittedly I did not fit these, I am no welder so had it done by two guys who knew what they were doing, their choice of words afterwards were "fiddley but manageable". They used a thick black bondo-like stuff to seal the new lower to old upper and it looks like it had never been touched.
Edited by MagnetizedMINI, 09 October 2012 - 05:19 PM.
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