17 replies to this topic

[087dave]

Hi all, while replacing my boot floor i noticed a bit of rust on the R/H filler pocket panel

so if i put a bit of kurust on will it stop the rust process as it says it does or will the rust come back

cherrs dave

[Youngowner93]

Yep it does work however it turns black when dried so you cant see It wont however stop the rusting process if you dont protect it after the treatment or if the rust is worse underneath.

[thehelstonian]

its a temp measure if you're just using that, ideally rust treatment is more effective

[mini_legend]

I'd swear by it personally, good stuff so long as combined with rust proofing after. I use the kurust stuff, then its hammerited, with a couple of layers

JK

[Mini Mad Drakeley]

ive been using it and it seems to work very well but the por15 metal ready rust converter stuff is sh*t, so dont get it

[grahama]

Haven't had a problem with it to be honest, loose rust off first then a good coating the no problems.

Graham

[087dave]

Thanks for the replies, a bit of kurust and then a bit of black hammerite

cherrs

[wardyxxx]

I've just used it on a little, really awkard bit. Worked well.

[AVV IT]

Personally I preffer "Jenolite" as it works more rapidly than Kurust and can be over painted sooner. Apparently it's so good that even the MOD use it on their tanks and other military vehiciles!!

[JonnyAlpha]

Apparently it's so good that even the MOD use it on their tanks and other military vehiciles!!

A good service person (being PC here) would not let his/her equipment rust in the first place!!!

I have used KRUST and it seems to do the trick and I have sprayed over it with Acid Etch.

[mike.]

It does seem to stop minor rust aslong as its overcoated with something protective.

Have a look at bilt hamber hydrate 80 though. I find it works better and leaves a better finish.

[Jake Didsbury]

Ive just been using Kurust on my rea subframe today, plan to paint over it then rust proof it.
The subframe isnt actually that bad but there are a few rust spots so i want to get them now before it becomes a chasing game.

Im not expert in this field, I mean ive only had my mini 6 months, now obviously the best way to get rid of it is to bring it back to bare metal completly i.e. grind it all down
or sand blast it, but this is a painstaking process and not everyone has a sand blaster :L also to do it right would require dropping of the subframe.
So if you are going to try and use some rust convertor, I believe you should remove all the excess rust first (like other people have already said) then go over it with the kurust or another product that may even be better, and make sure when you apply it you really work it in so it goes into any pitted areas. What i did was go in a circular motion with the brush to work it in then straight lines to finish it off.
Now leave it for a while (says 15 mins on the tin) until it goes a sort of dark blue/black colour then if you wanted you could go over it again, after that leave it for about 3 hours and apply a final coat of the kurust, after thats gone off wait a while (say 30 mins to be safe) then paint over it with something like hammerite, a colour of your choice. Id personally do a few coats, also going back to the rust convertor, make sure if you come to any edges that are abit flaky or what ever you clean them up and get plenty of the convertor on them becase if its gonna start rusting again anywhere, its gonna be around the edges of holes and things and edges of the subframe etc.

Then you have a few choices as to how you want to 'rust proof' it:
I havent got to this stage so ill list the options ive set myself to decide, im also thinking of doing some experiments with the different methods on a peice of metal leave it in the weather a few weeks see what happens.

anyway you could:
Use waxoil, this is great stuff however does dry out after so long not sure how long but it does, so has to be re-applied (if it was me id do it before every winter)

Use grease (id recommend using new, clean grease for reasons stated below), good thing about grease is it doesnt ever really dry out (i dont think anyway) an if it does it will take a long time, plus it wont let any water past it at all.

Use Oil, now alot of people say use old engine oil and put it in a spray gun, I once asked an engineer about this and he said it could have negative effects becuase of the other chemicals that have gotten mixed in with the oil while it was in the engine and could actually eat in to the metal (if thats true or not i dont know, but it seems a good point), thats also why I said use clean grease too, so if it was me id put oil on thats never been used.

So of the 3 methods i know of above you have to weigh up the pros and cons, personally I think either grease or waxoil is the best option, the problem with the grease is it wont really go through a spray gun unless its thinned down ( then i dont think it works aswell), and the waxoil will go in a spray gun an get those hard to reach places but it eventually dries out, but i suppose having to do it once a year isnt bad really.

So its up to you how you do that, ill let you guys know if i have any findings.

Hope it was relevant and useful.
Jake

[l_jonez]

I tried it a few years ago and tipped it on some fiberglass and it still turned black /

I use the por15 metal ready which works well and also etches the metal ready and leaves a zinc coating

[valve bounce]

never really used it other than dabbing it onto rust stone chips before touching up with top coat.
the best way to kill the rust to to have it shot blasted then lots of paint then waxoyl

[new_zealand _minis]

i dont trust those products that are good for the enviroment..

i would rather have some hard out chemical that will just eat the hell out of rust ..

that por 15 stuff is good .. and the propper stuff is called deoxidene . scotch pad it on theave it for 3 mins hose it off then ethc right after . head stuff but works