8 replies to this topic

[James_1]

Hi, I've just dropped my rear subrframe out so I can make a repair on the shell and clean it up thinking that being only 7 years old and with only a few thousand miles on (fitted by the previous owner) it would be in good condition. Wrong. The passenger side has rotted out a bit around the rubber cone and needs welding, and one of the studs has sheared clean off.

From looking the repair could be done but it's not in great condition anywhere. I also know it's a bit of a grey area MOT wise to weld up patches on subframes so I don't really want to go there if I can avoid it.

My question is this; do I replace it with a 'good' used eBay subframe/ask for one on here, buy a new genuine subframe for £300 or save £120 and get a non genuine? Is there a big difference between the two? I feel that a replacement is the best course of action - unless someone can convince me otherwise! Or do I go for a beam axle? I’m only 19 so the insurance company may not look favourably at that and I'm concerned also about the safety implications.

The car is a 1983 saloon and I'm building it as a daily drive/road rally car.

Thanks, James

EDIT: I don't know if this is worth mentioning but the factory welding on the 'frame seemed to be pretty substandard and there was very little of it. Most panels could be prized off with a small screwdriver if I wanted to. Is that a sign of a non-genuine part and if so are they worth seem welding?

Edited by James_1, 19 May 2011 - 02:31 PM.

[James_1]

[Guess-Works.com]

The beam axle is not the cheap choice, once you've bought the coil overs you need to go with it, and welded in some strengthening into the arches as they are now supporting the weight of the car as opposed to the subframe mounts...

If you can get a good second hand one, then bonus.... personally, if it's not too bad I's strip it out, weld it up and get it powder coated before you put it back in...

[Guess-Works.com]

oh dear... you've snapped one of the trunnions... unless you're bloody good at welding, then replacement subframe...

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 19 May 2011 - 02:34 PM.

[James_1]

Thanks Guess-Works, a beam axle is a complete no go then. I'll carry on stripping it down and see how it goes I think.

EDIT: Yeah, after a night soaking in WD40 the first come came off nice and easily but the second one snapped almost instantly . I can weld but I'm not amazing! New subby it is.

EDIT2: The bushes are a little tired and need replacing, are poly bushes the way to go for a road car or are they too harsh?

Edited by James_1, 19 May 2011 - 02:59 PM.

[M J W J]

A brand new sub frame was £304.99 (+ delivery if you can't/don't want to collect) from mini spares last time I checked. Me personally I would fix it. The sheared stud is the same what happened to my sub frame. It can be saved but you need access to a lathe and need to be able to weld. As for being concerned about the MOT with a repaired sub frame, as long as it is done properly then there is no need to worry.

Here is a link to my build diary showing how the stud can be saved.

http://www.theminifo...x...47671&st=15

[James_1]

That's a good idea! I don't have a lathe but I have access to one and the welding is fine. Thanks!

[lrostoke]

My trunnion snapped, I drilled the snapped bit out of the tube section. Found a bolt the same size, drilled a side ways hole through the tube section, insert bolt with head cut off to correct length..Welded through the sideways hole I'd drilled and puddle welded it. Just for good mease also put a seam round the end and ran a die down to recut the thread.

[James_1]

I've been over the subframe with a wire wheel on a grinder and the rest seems to be fine so I'm going to repair it. Thanks for all the advice, no doubt I'll be back asking for more very soon!