9 replies to this topic

[aidan8888]

Well, the mot was failed last week for these reasons, thoses points with scores through have been seen to.

Fails

1- Hazard warning lights not flashing in phase with ignition on
2- Hazard warning lights not flashing in phase with ignition off.
3- Position lamp switch faulty.
4- Offside rear fog lamp not working
5- Direction indicators flashing more than 120 times a minute.
6- Offside front (floor in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded DONE
7- Nearside front (sill to floor inside car) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
8- (Both outer sills in several places) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
9- Nearside front tyre(s) is incorrect because tyres with different aspect ratios are fitted on the same axle.
10- Offside rear (sub- frame) suspension component prescribed are is excessively corroded.
11- Nearside rear (sub- frame) suspension component mounting prescribed area is inadequately repaired.
12-(both track control arms (bent)) steering arm damaged and unserviceable.
13- Front (broken) Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gasses DONE
14- (both front inner flitches) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded
15- Nearside constant velocity gaiter insecurely mounted to its housing
16- Nearside rear (inner flitch in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded DONE
17- Offside rear (inner flitch in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
18- (both rear) shock absorbers have negligible damping effect
19- (both rear) radius arm has excessive play in pin/ bush
20- (due to exhaust) emissions not tested.
21- (due to exhaust) brake performance not tested
22- Service brake efficiency below requirements
23- Parking service brake efficiency below requirements.

Advisories

24- Engine idle speed requires attention soon
25- Driver side door window does not open
26- Exhaust catching on body requires attention DONE
27- Various body panels showing signs of corrosion
28- Rear valance corroded in non- prescribed area
29- Rear exhaust section requires further securing soon DONE
30- Slight play in front ball joints
31- oil leak

I was going to ask if any of you had any advice for me

Points 1 through 5- The lights are mental on my car. They come on and go off as they please, do the indicators and headlights share the same earth?

Points 10 and 11- New rear sub frame- this looks simple enough, is there anything that can or will catch me out when fitting a new one?

Point 12- Is the steering arm as hard to replace as I have heard, does anyone know of a good walkthrough?

I wouldnt say I am particualry skilled or experienced when it comes to mechanics, but I am competent, and I have a mate who is a mechanic on standby.

Any other advice on any other points appreciated.

[jim4eva]

indicators could be either the bulb or the relay

[aidan8888]

indicators could be either the bulb or the relay

They all flash though, so I have a feeling it might be a bad earth, do you know where they are earthed to the car?

[Andywade]

Jeesus thats a long list.

Did you expect it to pass? I especially like number 9 - you just chucked on some old 10" mini wheels didnt you

Indicators - probably a broken / incorrectly wired up flasher unit/units.

Steering arm is part of the rack and you'll need to replace the steering rack as one unit - its easy to do but you will need to drop the subframe

Rear shocks - fork out for some new adjustable dampers - may as well get the kit and do the fronts as well

oil leak - leave it it stops the front subframe from rusting

[CHUNKY365]

Front indicators are normally earthed inside the lights units themselves. The earth wire goes to one of the fixing screws, which will earth to the body.

The rears are earthed to the light unit fixing nuts in the boot.

I would hazard (excuse the pun) a guess at saying one, or both of the front indicators is corroded. This may cause an intermittant flash, like one of the bulbs has blown.

[Dan]

Where the indicators are earthed to depends on the age of the car. I would suggest there is nothing wrong with the flasher units, it's a wiring problem. Possibly earths, possibly bad joints. Flashing out of phase means something very odd is going on. You need to break every joint in the indiactor wiring and clean them all up properly.
The streering problem lists both steering arms and track rods as the fault, these are two separate components. Steering arms are simple to replace, track rods are less so because realistically it means a new rack.
It says service brake below requirements, but also says it's not been tested. which is it?


You need a new rear subframe, recon radius arms, new dampers (with everything else you are doing I'd stick with standard dampers for now), new rack or steering arms, new ball joints, loads of welding, a week craling through the wiring, new light switch......

Realistically this car is a scrapper.

[Gulfclubby]

Realistically this car is a scrapper.

Or strip it completely and rebuild it properly. More of a project than anything, is it?

[liirge]

No way is that a scrapper! If you have the time and the inclination most of that stuff is easy to do.


1- Hazard warning lights not flashing in phase with ignition on - SEE DANS POST
2- Hazard warning lights not flashing in phase with ignition off. - SEE DANS POST
3- Position lamp switch faulty. - NOT TOO SURE
4- Offside rear fog lamp not working - Bulb has blown? fuse has blown? relay broken? wiring is missing or broken or switch has had it. Easy to fix
5- Direction indicators flashing more than 120 times a minute. SEE DANS POST
6- Offside front (floor in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded DONE
7- Nearside front (sill to floor inside car) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
8- (Both outer sills in several places) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
9- Nearside front tyre(s) is incorrect because tyres with different aspect ratios are fitted on the same axle. - He make sure the same tyres are on the wheels
10- Offside rear (sub- frame) suspension component prescribed are is excessively corroded. Weld or replace where necessary
11- Nearside rear (sub- frame) suspension component mounting prescribed area is inadequately repaired. Weld or Replace
12-(both track control arms (bent)) steering arm damaged and unserviceable. Needs clarification but if the track rods are bent then... New steering rack (you have to lower the front subframe down a bit, then disconnect the track rod ends to the hub, undo the nuts on the U-bolts on the inside of the car, undo the nut holding the rack on (pinch bolt) then slide the rack out from the side, and install a new one)

13- Front (broken) Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gasses DONE
14- (both front inner flitches) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded, Weld or replace
15- Nearside constant velocity gaiter insecurely mounted to its housing Cable tie the gaiter to the CV joint
16- Nearside rear (inner flitch in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded DONE
17- Offside rear (inner flitch in several places) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded. DONE
18- (both rear) shock absorbers have negligible damping effect New shock absorbers, ne side will require the movement of the fuel tank.
19- (both rear) radius arm has excessive play in pin/ bush Purchase recon arms and fit
20- (due to exhaust) emissions not tested. Needs test - Lower idle speed
21- (due to exhaust) brake performance not tested ensure that your brakes are adjusted before you test again anyway, and that there is brake fluid in the resovoir.
22- Service brake efficiency below requirements
23- Parking service brake efficiency below requirements. adjust handbrake


See not tooo bad

[aidan8888]

Ok, so all welding done, new front shocks, new inlet manifold, new exhaust from the head to the tailpipe, new oil, new filter, spark plugs, and new HT leads.

However, upon doing the rear shocks i am unable to tighten them up as the top part keeps twisting round as i tighten the nut. I trip holding the shock still with mole grips but it seems quiet fragile, any ideas?

[SMP]

I hope that you are using the mole grips inside the boot and not to hold something under the wheel arch!!!

I have to assume that are doing it wrong (excuse me for saying so!!) - because with the mole grip clamped onto the flats on the very top of the shocker shaft you should be able to tighten the nut very easily. Agree that it can feel like you would be able to reach easier with dislocated shoulders but's not that hard. Even when you are just starting to wind the nut on ther should still be enough of the shaft poking through the nut to get hold of.

Cheers
Steve