25 replies to this topic

[dklawson]

The bracket Ibrooks mentioned can be seen in the picture linked below. The picture is not mine... just found on the web.
http://farm4.static....8ff48aa8a_o.jpg
You will notice that there is a second plate, below and parallel to the one the master cylinders are on.

Concerning what oil pressure you should and shouldn't have, that is subject to too many variables to tell you a simple answer. Oil pressure is a function of the grade of oil you use, engine clearances/wear, engine speed, and engine/oil temperature. I like to see at least 25 PSI for a hot idle near 900 RPM and near 50 PSI for a warm engine at speed. The upper pressure CAN be tweaked up or down by adjusting the bypass valve. However, tweaking the bypass valve will not change your idle oil pressure.

You said you replaced the leaky oil hose with a piece of fuel line. There is fuel line for carbureted engines and fuel line for fuel injected engines. You probably can make a very long lasting replacement for the factory oil gauge hose using fuel injection hose routed away from the exhaust. If you used regular fuel line for carbureted engines, it will harden faster and be more subject to bursting at "normal" engine oil pressures. I would not use carburetor fuel hose for very long.

[breskit]

As I seem to be missing this bracket I will secure the clutch pipe to the bell housing with a clip in order to stop it from vibrating.

The fuel hose I have used simply says it is suitable for leaded and unleaded fuel. Doesn't specify carburretted or injection.

Still concerned over the overly high oil pressure, so will take the relief valve out and make sure it's not sticking.

[Gulfclubby]

I don't think 75psi is too high, if that's what you get at speed. Once things stick at 100 all the time, then you can reconsider.

[jonny d]

all so your rubbers are shot so you need to replace them when you take the dog bone off to fix the bracket and apply the earth cable

[nicksuth]

Replace it with the steel braided version (C-AHT9) and route away from manifold.

Got a bran new one in the garage that I can do you for £15 delivered

Nick,

I've looked at the picture for that hose and have a question. How does that fit onto the small thin (3mm?) pipes that run between the engine block and the bulkhead? This pipe appears to have some sort of screw-type end connectors, whereas what I'm using is a push fit, secured with jubilee clips.

Can you advise how this fits?

thanks,
Tony B

It replaces the whole pipe from sender to gauge.

[Dan]

The bracket isn't just to hold the clutch pipe, it holds the engine still. You need it.

Fuel hose is either marked injection, or not marked at all. If it's not marked it's carburettor type hose, which is rated to 5 psi if memory serves.

[ibrooks]

As I seem to be missing this bracket I will secure the clutch pipe to the bell housing with a clip in order to stop it from vibrating.

That will make matters worse. There is a dog-bone shaped steady bolted to the side of the engine which runs towards the bulkhead. At the bulkhead it should be between two brackets. One is the plate that the master cylinders are bolted through (above the steady) and the other is welded to the bulkhead (below the steady). It's the bracket welded to the bulkhead that's missing on your car - or at least partly missing. It has a second hole that the clutch pipe is secured to. The idea is that the solid part of the pipe is secured at both ends to things that don't move in relation to each other (master cylinder and the bracket). The flexible part of the pipe then connects the parts that move in relation to each other (bulkhead and engine).



That's my old Clubby. You can see the steady on the nearest side of the engine and it disappears behind the breather canister so you can't see the end I'm talking about but you can see the clutch pipe.

There should be an earth cable connecting the engine to the body of the car since all the mountings are rubber isolated. Normally that cable is connected at each end of that dog-bone shaped engine steady - it's quite acceptable for it to be elsewhere.

Iain

[breskit]

Doh! I'm a fool. I mentioned fixing the clutch pipe to the bell housing!! I meant the bulk head.

I see the part of the bracket you are referring to and can see where your clutch pipe is secured. As I am missing the bottom part of this bracket I will have to secure the clutch pipe by either making a new bracket to fix to the bulkhead, or use a type of P-clip to secure it.

The engine steady is secured to the top of this bracket. I assume that should be strong enough to hold the engine - it certainly seems so.

As for the earth cable, I have two on my car. One is on the botton and connect the engine to the front subframe, and another on the top of the engine to where the looms earth (that helped to fix my electrical issues as everything started working once they had a good earth).

The oil pressure I've sussed out too. As I have no air filter in place just yet the car is screaming. Under normal idle the oil pressure gauge is reading around 50psi, so looks normal.

[minibarnerz]

With just the one bracket the bolt holding the dogbone will be pivoting on the bracket and not hoody as well as it should. You will find this will start to "oval" the hole in the bracket, wear the rubbers prematurely and will not be holding the engine steady. This will in turn break the engine mounts, cause the carb to bang on bulkhead, break exhaust manifold and other issues. I would reccomend it's sorted out quite quickly!

[Dan]

The engine steady is secured to the top of this bracket. I assume that should be strong enough to hold the engine - it certainly seems so.

Strange assumption when you've been told several times it isn't the case! You need to fix this.

You can remove the earth strap that is earthing the engine to the subframe. Since the subframe is isolated from the body by rubber it's not doing anything constructive.

[breskit]

The engine steady is secured to the top of this bracket. I assume that should be strong enough to hold the engine - it certainly seems so.

Strange assumption when you've been told several times it isn't the case! You need to fix this.

You can remove the earth strap that is earthing the engine to the subframe. Since the subframe is isolated from the body by rubber it's not doing anything constructive.

I didn't realise both sides were needed. I thought the purpose of the lower part was more to steady the clutch pipe.
As I don't have this bracket I will make one up and get it fixed to the bulkhead ASAP.

Thanks for the tip about the earth strap on the sub frame. As everything is currently working on the car, I'll leave it in place for now - even if it does nothing.

Cheers,
Tony B