7 replies to this topic

[SolarB]

Fitted new ball joints all round during the re-build and today I got around to greasing all the suspension points, which is when I ran into today's problem.

Each ball joint will take a couple of strokes from the grease gun but then the lever on the gun goes solid. I eventually managed to get a little grease out from under the dust shield of one joint but it took a LOT of pressure on the gun. The other three just won't accept any more grease no matter how much pressure I apply. The nipples are free and the fact that each joint accepted grease initially but then doesn't take any more has me puzzled. It's almost as if I've lapped them too well and the grease can't flow around the inside of the cup and out the top.

The joints came from Minispares but I can't remember if they were genuine or pattern parts. They took a while to shim and lap in but eventually went together very well, not excessively tight but just right.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edited by SolarB, 25 April 2011 - 03:46 PM.

[MRA]

where they geased up on installation ? if so then they should be ok, however if you want to be belt and braces then lift up the rubber boot and squirt a couple of pumps in to each one.

as long as yo ucould move each taper ball pin by hand (with the use of a short spanner or similar) then all should be fine

[SolarB]

Great. Linky

"Genuine swivel pin repair kit-Beware as latest supplies now have no grease path up the shoulder and wear in the small ball seats is alarming which suggests material problems somewhere-our latest experience shows upper joints wearing out quickly (4-5000 miles)

This would explain the symptoms. Do I need to take my joints apart and file a flat for the grease path?

[SolarB]

where they geased up on installation ?

Greased up when assembled but I'm thinking about maintenance. All the Minis I've ever had have flowed grease from under the dust cap without too much pressure required.

[MRA]

you won't be able to file a flat on them as they are hardened steel.....

However judging by the comments on the "linky" I would say you don't need to worry as they will wear out long before you need to regrease them

however should they last you longer than the 4500 to 5000 miles predicted then you will be able to get grease in as there is always going to be a "gap" between the ball and seat that grease will work through eventually, don't forget that you are trying to pump a very thin section of grease through a long path and this would require higher pumping pressures.

[SolarB]

I've had the joints apart and the large ball has a flat ground onto it for the grease to flow. However the flat didn't reach the very top or bottom of the ball to allow the grease to flow if the ball was at 90 degrees to the cup. A couple of minutes with a file and I managed to make a very small trench on the upper ball that now lets grease through. Though come to think of it, with the one way valve of the grease nipple as long as I was pressurising the joint with grease it was bound to work it's way around the ball once I started to drive the car.

Thanks for the advice.

[m1n1]

I have had the same problem since 2002. I rebuilt them again in 2009 with another non genuine kit but still could not inject any grease.

[Big_Adam]

I have an odd one, I found that I can only get grease in a few points if I jack the car up (wheel off floor, not just taking weight) then I can grease the other joints.

Also, I've broken grease guns by pumping too hard (oh my), ended up buying a beefy Draper one, seems to be fine with it.