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What To Look For?


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#16 A362 TTU

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 02:35 PM

Ah ok. It might be a bit more than £50 using classic car insurance, but still be alot cheaper than £4000. I couldn't even get a quote on my mini through confused.com, so you've done well there :thumbsup:

The main stream sites are terrible when combining Mini + under 19.
It may not have been confused, but it was one of the big comparison sites.

Again thanks to everyone, lots of help. Its just a waiting game now for the right car

EDIT: looking on Ebay
http://motors.shop.e...#item4cf6997642
Loads of people want 3k plus, unless its a project.

Edited by howgudami, 07 May 2011 - 09:46 PM.


#17 wardyxxx

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 03:31 PM

unless its a project.


Every mini is a "project".

If you want a completely finished car (will still need something doing to it), you'll pay a fair but more than one that wants some work doing. And if doing some small-scale work scares you - reconsider getting a mini.

#18 AVV IT

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 03:45 PM

Only difference between a cooper and any other mini with a 1275 (apart from injection) is a name, but they want £750 more...


That's not how I understood it...... I may be wrong, but I thought that the Rover Coopers had a different cam and higher compression ratio than the non copper 1275's, resulting in around a 10bhp power increase over the likes of the sprite, mayfair etc. This being the reason for the higher insurance premium, plus their extra desirability makes them more prone to being stolen.

#19 A362 TTU

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 08:20 PM

unless its a project.


Every mini is a "project".

If you want a completely finished car (will still need something doing to it), you'll pay a fair but more than one that wants some work doing. And if doing some small-scale work scares you - reconsider getting a mini.


Thats not how i wanted to come across. i want a mini because i want a car to work on (i dont know much about it but im willing to learn) - But for my first mini i want something that runs and will pass an MOT. :)

by 'unless its a project' i meant that there seems to be a big leap in price.

IE. lots of minis around £600 that need large scale work. And then the price jumps beyond £3k for cars that need little to no work. There dosnt seem to be much for sale around £1500 - £2500 which is where i am looking ;)

#20 oli8925

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 08:24 PM

AVV TI is right, the difference between Coopers and 'normal' 1275's is more than the name.

And £4k1? ;) pluck me sideways!

Although it is true that confused.com and similar sites are generally crap. You can usually get a fair bit cheaper by calling around, although unfortunately it is very difficult at your age. We've all been there (well, most of us :)). You may also have difficulty getting classic insurance too because of your age. Depends partly on the company, and I swear partly on who you talk to. At 18 footman Jame's told me I couldn't get classic insurance until I was 21 or 25. At 19 they insured me and I've been with them since.

I would have thought you wouldn't have much problem getting a good Mini for your budget either. As someone said, I thought the market wasn't too strong anymore. I think a lot of people put a massive price on Minis for the name and because they're rare (sorry but they're not). Just take your time and the right one will come along for the right price

#21 AVV IT

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 11:10 PM

looking on Ebay
http://motors.shop.e...#item4cf6997642
Loads of people want 3k plus, unless its a project.


Yes but "wanting" and "getting" are two very different things! The problem is that the classic mini is very much an enthusiasts car and an awful lot of enthusiasts seem to think that at resale they will get back the purchase price of their pride & joy, plus every single penny that they have ever spent on them since!! In reality this has very little to do with actual true market value and the eventual sale price. (If it were, then I would be rolling around laughing in the 6k that I must have shelled out on mine over the years, as opposed to the £1,800 that it is probably only worth if I'm lucky!! :) ) The truth is that the classic mini market is still in a bit of a low at the moment and very few cars are actually selling for over the 2.5k mark, unless they are particularly rare or special. If you look through some of the completed listings on Ebay and take note of the selling prices of those that have actually sold, then you may notice a slightly different story!!

#22 connor_cooper

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:53 AM

Newer ones seem to be poorer build quality, certainly in terms of rust. My local Mini specialist has a 2000X Sportpack in the yard and it is absolutely rotten, looks like its been dredged up from the bottom of the sea. Pre rubber mounted front subframe models seem to be the best of all

some seem really bad, others better, only bit of rust on mine is a bit of bubbling round the headlights a little on the sills and a bit on the floor. 97k on a 2001 y. Pretty awful when compared to other cars of a similar age, not bad for a mini though :).

#23 mab01uk

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 06:32 PM

Only difference between a cooper and any other mini with a 1275 (apart from injection) is a name, but they want £750 more...


That's not how I understood it...... I may be wrong, but I thought that the Rover Coopers had a different cam and higher compression ratio than the non copper 1275's, resulting in around a 10bhp power increase over the likes of the sprite, mayfair etc. This being the reason for the higher insurance premium, plus their extra desirability makes them more prone to being stolen.


True for the SPi but the Cooper branded MPi's and plain 'Mini' branded cars both used the same engine, both the MPi Mini and MPi Cooper use identical power units. Technically the non-Cooper is probably very slightly quicker, due to the weight saving through the lack of extra trimings (fog lights, leather seats, for example) especially if a Sportpack. All MPi cams, Mini and Mini Cooper are the same.

#24 LuckyThe1275

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 07:45 PM

Try Footman James for insurance... I think insurance has become more costly in the last year or two, but when I last insured mine it was only £750/yr for a 998 Mini, with a 1275 engine transplant and other mods declared. I live in one of the lower risk post codes though.

People often recommend Adrian Flux too, but FJ gave me a better quote, and would insure me at 17 unlike someone said above... maybe things have changed?

Anyway... I'd go for a 1275, it was about £150 more per year, which I could afford... and 1275 engines are getting rarer, and more expensive, personally, i'd buy a 1275 with your budget, but not a 90's... and 80's 1275, or 80's that's had a 1275 transplant, hopefully carried out properly.

£2.5k will get you a nice one anyhow, don't worry :techsupport:

#25 jayjay31

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Posted 07 August 2011 - 04:27 AM

footman James are good anything over 12 year they class as. classic
got vw mk1 gti 1.8 insuraned full comp £189

#26 Saunders

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 05:38 PM

Hi, I have a 1988 998cc austin mini manual. About a month ago i had an issue where the heater valve broke and coolant went everywhere and my engine was overheating. I got the valve fixed and the car has run fine until today the same thing has happened, obviously its not an issue with the valve, so does anybody have any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

#27 alex-95

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 06:01 PM

Hi, I have a 1988 998cc austin mini manual. About a month ago i had an issue where the heater valve broke and coolant went everywhere and my engine was overheating. I got the valve fixed and the car has run fine until today the same thing has happened, obviously its not an issue with the valve, so does anybody have any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

I'm geussing it's just done this below, If it has the new heater valves are crap, the body is not tapped over the mechanism part enough therefore blowing the mechanism out. you can fit it back together and with a small hammer tap the ali body over the mechanism part. If you want a better one pm carlosw as he has some genuine ones for sale.IMG-20121029-00055.jpg



#28 Saunders

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 09:58 PM


Hi, I have a 1988 998cc austin mini manual. About a month ago i had an issue where the heater valve broke and coolant went everywhere and my engine was overheating. I got the valve fixed and the car has run fine until today the same thing has happened, obviously its not an issue with the valve, so does anybody have any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

I'm geussing it's just done this below, If it has the new heater valves are crap, the body is not tapped over the mechanism part enough therefore blowing the mechanism out. you can fit it back together and with a small hammer tap the ali body over the mechanism part. If you want a better one pm carlosw as he has some genuine ones for sale.IMG-20121029-00055.jpg
thats exactly what it has done! So is it a fault with the component then and not they system? Is it a known commen fault with mini's and how can i stop it from happening? Thank you very much for your help

#29 Saunders

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 09:58 PM


Hi, I have a 1988 998cc austin mini manual. About a month ago i had an issue where the heater valve broke and coolant went everywhere and my engine was overheating. I got the valve fixed and the car has run fine until today the same thing has happened, obviously its not an issue with the valve, so does anybody have any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

I'm geussing it's just done this below, If it has the new heater valves are crap, the body is not tapped over the mechanism part enough therefore blowing the mechanism out. you can fit it back together and with a small hammer tap the ali body over the mechanism part. If you want a better one pm carlosw as he has some genuine ones for sale.IMG-20121029-00055.jpg
thats exactly what it has done! So is it a fault with the component then and not they system? Is it a known commen fault with mini's and how can i stop it from happening? Thank you very much for your help

#30 tiger99

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 10:50 AM

It was not a common fault until recently, when a bad batch of heater valves entered the supply chain. I believe them to be of Chinese origin, but the blame largely lies with the importer, who could have gone to a factory with proper quality control, or given them a proper specification to manufacture them. We get innundated with defective Chinese junk because we tolerate it, and the bunch of spivs who run significant parts of the Mini supply chain are prepared to go to the cheapest back-street Chinese factory to get shoddy bits made. People who take a different approach, assess their potential suppliers properly, and apply on-going QA procedures can get good stuff made in China.

 

I don't know where to get a good quality heater valve as of now, but you mat find one of the old, brass ones which were manually operated, and used on other A series engines such as the Moggy at one time, and on early Minis.

 

I suggest that next time, to get the answer you need quicker, you should start a new thread with a proper title such as "Heater valve problem" rather than tack it on to the end of a long-dead and completely unrelated thread. You get best results from forums, like everything in life, by using them correctly, and we only want you to get the best advice for your Mini.






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