

Fitting A Hydralic Hand Brake, Any One Done It.
#16
Posted 04 February 2014 - 07:58 PM

#17
Posted 04 February 2014 - 07:59 PM
Holy thread revival Batman!
lol, don't know why this came up on my screen ^^ Maybe with me searching for handbrakes via google orso.. Damn its late
#18
Posted 04 February 2014 - 08:05 PM
Just a thought, but would fitting a one way valve, not mean that the brake would be permanently on.
#19
Posted 04 February 2014 - 08:12 PM
a hydraulic handbrake is an MOT FAIL
Edited by cal844, 04 February 2014 - 08:14 PM.
#20
Posted 04 February 2014 - 08:18 PM
Explain further as I would keep the cable handbrake as well for parkinga hydraulic handbrake is an MOT FAIL
#21
Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:45 PM
A hydraulic handbrake has only one real use - HANDBRAKE TURNS .
It used to be easy to handbrake on the old 145 section width tyres in the dry, but on modern 'sticky' 165 tyres in the dry it can be difficult, although in the wet it's no problem. To improve the standard handbrake fit a larger diameter and better fitting clevis pin through the handbrake lever inside the brake drum and make sure the handbrake cables are well lubricated.,
#22
Posted 04 February 2014 - 10:30 PM
In any case it is well nigh impossible to correctly add a hydraulic handbrake to the existing brake system. You need a very special master cylinder for the handbrake, which passes fluid through from the footbrake system while the handbrake is released. Something like a remote reservoir type master cylinder, with the footbrake feeding in through the reservoir port, except that these cylinders are not designed to withstand footbrake pressure at the reservoir port, nor is there sufficient fluid flow that way to get sufficiently quick brake release. I understand that in the US, and probably elsewhere, it is possible to get the correct hydraulic components to do the job, however it is not legal in the UK as the only parking brake, nor does it give any redundancy, in fact it adds new failure modes.
This sort of thing is strictly for track racing etc, although some trials cars use "fiddle" brakes, seperately controlled per rear wheel, but the controls are quite distinct from the handbrake lever. There is no safe way of operating both the hydraulic and cable systems from the one lever, and having two levers would be dangerous because it adds the potential for confusion.
A handbrake system is required to incorporate stored energy, to keep the brakes on despite temperature changes, and in the standard systen that is achieved by "stretch" of the cables, within their elastic limit. Some cars have small spring boxes inserted in the cables to provide more energy storage.
It takes a lot of expertise to design a vehicle brake system, taking into account all legal and safety requirements, many of which are non-obvious, and it is not something that most of us should even be thinking about experimenting with.
#23
Posted 04 February 2014 - 10:48 PM
Hi
Also interested in doing this, not to aid te handbrake, or really ever to be used unless a little fun is required on an autotest, I've got a spare servo master cylinder which I would mount, then 'T' ino the line going to the back (already in the car alongside tunnel) and put a one way valve upstream, trouble is I can't find any one way valves
Anyone have any suggestions?
auto tests is it legal in the UK ?
when I use to do the Circuit of Ireland Retrospective
you could never beat the local boys on the auto tests
but a quick how to
2 master cylinders one on each side of the tunnel
with a lever about a foot long to pull on
each master cylinder operates one side of a rear brake
all you do is plum in a T piece next to the wheel cylinder
this will only work with duel circuit brakes
#24
Posted 04 February 2014 - 10:55 PM
Surely the pressure would just go back up the line, lock the other back wheels and brake the fronts as wellHi
auto tests is it legal in the UK ?
Also interested in doing this, not to aid te handbrake, or really ever to be used unless a little fun is required on an autotest, I've got a spare servo master cylinder which I would mount, then 'T' ino the line going to the back (already in the car alongside tunnel) and put a one way valve upstream, trouble is I can't find any one way valvesAnyone have any suggestions?
when I use to do the Circuit of Ireland Retrospective
you could never beat the local boys on the auto tests
but a quick how to
2 master cylinders one on each side of the tunnel
with a lever about a foot long to pull on
each master cylinder operates one side of a rear brake
all you do is plum in a T piece next to the wheel cylinder
this will only work with duel circuit brakes
#25
Posted 04 February 2014 - 11:01 PM
Demon Tweeks used to offer a range of hydraulic handbrake kits for competition cars. I have never been interested as Minis run mainly as Historic Cars for which hyd, handbrakes are not allowed. A mechanical handbrake is still mandatory even for rallying. It would be expensive and uneconomical unless the car is for serious competition. My manual one works on gravel, in the wet and usually in the dry unless the surface is very abrasive. You can lengthen the handbrake lever a few inches for more handbrake power.
#26
Posted 04 February 2014 - 11:18 PM
Leave it in gear? As everyone has said, a standard mini handbrake is more than enough when adjusted properly.
#27
Posted 05 February 2014 - 12:08 AM
Oh yeah and another mod to my mini :), just hope passengers don't get curious going down the motorway

#28
Posted 05 February 2014 - 02:55 AM
#29
Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:05 AM
#30
Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:19 AM
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