852 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Before proceeding I needed to sort a couple of things out on the steering wheel. Someone had fitted a Scotch Lock onto the Purple Wire for a 12v feed, these aren't recommended so I needed to remove it. It's the one with the yellow wore hanging out in the pic below.

 

 

 

Once off you can see the only damage is the pvc insulation missing, so a repair with a bit of tape to sort it out.

 

 

There's also a damaged connector, but that will have to stay.

 

 

Before refitting the steering column, I cleaned up the lower clamp and sourced a new lock washer and nut, I also put some graphite grease on the bushing.

Once the lower clamp and pinch bolt was on I did up the upper clamp bolt, with a new nylock nut.

 

Once the clamps were done up, I removed the steering wheel and put it back on, this time centred.

 

I followed this guide.

 

The nut is torqued, but there is no thread protruding?

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 05 April 2023 - 05:43 PM.

[sonscar]

I would repair the purple wire.The wires will have been"necked"and the missing insulation will allow corrosion.The but fit needs investigation.Steve..

[colinf1]

Maybe some self amalgamating tape to stop any corrosion? Plus it's inside the cabin in a relatively dry location so should be fine.

[Jarvis_SPI]

I would pop the pin out of the housing and slide some heat shrink up it to cover the damage.

[JonnyAlpha]

Next job to get the car back together was the wiring loom. I removed it to paint the inside of the dash and the engine bay.

 

A lot of the connectors need replacing, wires lengthening (due to a move of the fuse box) and a general clean up.

 

 

I found a great guide on YouTube on how to refresh a wiring loom here.

 

First I cleaned all the terminals with WD40 Contact Cleaner and then marked the end of the wrapping with a paint pen.

 

 

Then I carefully started to strip off the old cable wrap.

 

 

As I stripped each each piece I cleaned up the wiring some more and taped up the junctions, to avoid a complete spaghetti birds nest. 

 

 

Before I wrap the cable, I need to temporarily install it in the car to (a) identify which parts I don't need maybe (b) where to add wires for my new electronic system and swap from Inertia to Pre Engaged Starter, which parts need extending or moving e.g. I will be moving the windscreen washer bottle.

 

Iv'e also struggled to find a corresponding wiring diag for this twin inst cluster 1982 HLE 1000 Saloon. 

[JonnyAlpha]

Before repairing the loom, I wanted to identify some of the connectors that I had not labelled, I did this with the use of the diagram entitled:

"ROVER MINI WIRING DIAGRAM MINI 1000 SALOON - MINI SPECIAL 1976 ON - PAGE 86-5" to get the colour codes and a multimeter to trace the wires.

 

This connector that had been hanging around under the dash, turns out to be the Fog Light switch connection.

 

 

 

And these the Tacho and Wiper switch connections.

 

 

These were the Brake Pedal connectors.

 

 

 

This was the connections for the Brake Master Cylinder Brake Fluid Warning Light

 

 

And these were for the Revers light.

 

 

I connected up the Ignition Coil.

 

 

There are two cables connected into the female spade connector, a White and Yellow cable and a Pink and White one.

The yellow and white one has been labelled as spare as it is not connected.

 

 

On the wiring diagram I am using, however on one side of the coil there should be two black and white cables (which there are), one connects to the distributor and the other to the Tacho. The wire on the other side of the ignition coil should be whit and should go to Terminal 1 on the Fuse Box.

 

I had to identify how much to extend the Fuse Box Connections by, so to ensure I got the measurements correct, I had to feed the part of the loom that goes inside to the instrument panel and ignition switch.

 

According to my calculations, I needed to add 15cm to each fuse cable.

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 12 April 2023 - 07:23 PM.

[sonscar]

The white and yellow on the coil is the 12v bypass and goes to the starter.Steve..the pink is the ballast wire

Edited by sonscar, 13 April 2023 - 08:20 AM.

[JonnyAlpha]

The white and yellow on the coil is the 12v bypass and goes to the starter.Steve..the pink is the ballast wire

 

On which wiring diagram?

[sonscar]

Who knows,it just is.Look at 1989 triple clock.This is how mine is at this date.Steve..

[JonnyAlpha]

Trying to update this project build and I'm falling behind.

Following on with the Loom refurb, due to the move of the Fuse Box, the front to rear loom connections need to be moved as well.

 

There are also several spare unused connectors where the headlights and indicators branch off, I believe these may be for fog lights?

 

 

 

I also need to find a location for the new washer bottle and separate pump.

 

 

With a longer earth bolt, the water pump could go here and I have decided to put the washer bottle in the boot and run the pipes along the brake line?

 

 

One of the repairs that was needed was a brown wire that runs to one of the inline fuses, the sheathing has been worn away, possibly by the wiper? Anyway some time ago I do recall the wiper arm arching off off the scuttle, this must have been the reason.

 

 

I removed the connector and put on some heat shrink.

 

 

I had to fit a new flasher module connector.

 

 

Next it was time to extend the Fuse Box connectors.

Most of the wire and connectors were supplied by Wired By Wilson (great service).

 

Here are some Lucar Spade Terminals and Bullets underneath:

 

 

First up cut off the connectors.

 

 

Twist and splice and solder the extension.

 

 

Heat shrink before shrinking.

 

 

Slide on some heat shrink and solder and crimp on the new spade terminal.

 

 

Then on with the Heat Shrink and pop on the plastic sleeve (not seen in pic).

 

 

One of the things I had read to be wary of, was wire being oxidised inside the insulation. This turned out to be limited to only a few wires.  

Like these ones:

 

 

An oxidised wire won't solder, I could keep cutting back to find good copper (which I did in some cases), or another trick I found was to use some flux.

 

 

Apply a dob on the affected wires:

 

 

Heat up with the soldering iron and work off the oxidation.

 

 

Then splice and solder as before:

 

 

Left side wiring done before heat shrink (I know I should have staggered the joins).

 

 

And a pic of the left side fitted with plastic sleeves:

 

 

The headlight switch connector has burnt out so I fitted a new one:

 

 

For this I used some solder / crimp connectors:

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 24 April 2023 - 11:18 AM.

[colinf1]

I'm about to start sorting out my loom, this will be tremendous help as it should be the same loom as yours 82/83!

[Jarvis_SPI]

I would be careful with the flux to ensure none is left behind.  It is corrosive and will continue to eat the wires through.

[JonnyAlpha]

I'm about to start sorting out my loom, this will be tremendous help as it should be the same loom as yours 82/83!

 

If I can share anything I have found out, let me know.

[JonnyAlpha]

Another repair, but, I can't remember if I have completed it, is to repair a damaged brown / white wire, which I believe is the water temp sensor wire. 

 

 

It was time to re-wrap the loom.

With help from this video on loom repair:

 

 

I used some non adhesive loom tape supplied by Wired by Wilson, some Tesa adhesive tape and some Bostik glue.

 

basically you need to start taping up all the branches, starting where the old loom went up to, which I have taped with adhesive PVC to stop the wires from unravelling and marked with a white paint pen.

 

 

The procedure I used for this was to apply some Bostik, then wrap the loom with the non adhesive tape and then go back over the start with the adhesive tape for a few turns as seen below:

 

 

 

When doing the ends as you come to a join, you need to join all the ends up.

Like this.

 

 

Once all the ends were done, I could then wrap the rest of the main sections, starting at one end and working towards the other.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 07 May 2023 - 06:32 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

One thing I had not yet done was to extend the rear loom connections.

 

 

Not many photos, but I cut them off and then twisted and soldered on extensions using adhesive heat shrink on the joins.

I could then finish wrapping the loom.