16 replies to this topic

[chazzybaby]

hey guy's. just rebuilt a 1275 metro engine and am having problem with it not starting. when you turn the key to start there is a grinding noise which sounds like the flywheel hitting the casing. all the parts were in pieces before i reassembled them so wondering if i done it wrong?

has anyone got any ideas what my problem is?

[Cooperman]

hey guy's. just rebuilt a 1275 metro engine and am having problem with it not starting. when you turn the key to start there is a grinding noise which sounds like the flywheel hitting the casing. all the parts were in pieces before i reassembled them so wondering if i done it wrong?

has anyone got any ideas what my problem is?

It's probably the clutch slave cylinder fixing bolts a bit too long. If you get the starter motor bolts and the clutch slave bolts mixed, and it's easy to do as they are very similar, the longr bolts hit the flywheel.In most cases when you do this you 'lock' he engine so it can't rotate. just slacken the clutch slave bolts off a turn each and see it the engine then rotates easily.

[chazzybaby]

nope tried those. it's also just catching on one spot as the engine turns. am wondering if it could be from the studs between housing and gearbox sticking out too far and catching on the clutch. then the reason it's not turning nicely once it goes on is because these studs are stopping the clutch from going on square?

[Cooperman]

nope tried those. it's also just catching on one spot as the engine turns. am wondering if it could be from the studs between housing and gearbox sticking out too far and catching on the clutch. then the reason it's not turning nicely once it goes on is because these studs are stopping the clutch from going on square?

It can only be the studs/bolts which attach the transfer gear cover to the block/gearbox. I guess you'll have to pull the flywheel off to check it all out, but at least you'll know then. I always use 1/2" AF bolts behind the flywheel rather than studs and Loctite them in place.

[chazzybaby]

i was surprised to find the studs here as my 998 had bolts but i put it down to being a later engine and being from a metro and bigger displacement. thanks guys that'll be my job for tomorrow or wednesday

[Cooperman]

i was surprised to find the studs here as my 998 had bolts but i put it down to being a later engine and being from a metro and bigger displacement. thanks guys that'll be my job for tomorrow or wednesday

I'm sure you know, but just to remind you, the bolts into the gearbox are 5/16" UNC and into the block they are 5/16" UNF.

[chazzybaby]

yeah they are the ones with the coarser thread because the gearbox's are cast aluminium with is softer than steel. it's all good! i think i have some lying around in my toolbox somewhere.

is is possible to swap the studs for the bolts without draining the oil back out?

[Wil_h]

I think you have to ask the question "Why is the flywheel so close to the bolts/studs"

It may be that you have an errant stud/bolt that needs tightening, but other causes of the flywheel hitting the bolts are that the thrust washers are worn or the flywheel/crank taper is worn/damaged.

Be interesting to see what you find.

[chazzybaby]

ok great all things about it being the clutch can be erased from thought. i tested myself (had been my friend who's been helping me) how tight the engine was and it's bloody tight! the engine has had new bearings but my thinking is that the conrod bolts and main bearing bolts have been over-torqued. the engine was built as a team effort and i think some people may have been a bit hap-hazard in their methods. would my thinking about the over torqued bolts be a good one?

[Cooperman]

If the big end nuts or main stud nuts have been over-torqued it should not affect the engine turning over, but it may have taken the bolts and studs beyond their elastic limit. This would, effectively, have scrapped the bolts & studs and they must be changed for new ones and accurately torqued before the engine is started to prevent the possibility of failure leading to an engine blow-up.

[chazzybaby]

random question but is there a difference between A and A+ flywheel housings? my flywheel is definitely catching on the housing at the bottom.

[Cooperman]

random question but is there a difference between A and A+ flywheel housings? my flywheel is definitely catching on the housing at the bottom.

Overall dimensions are identical. The only difference will be the diameter of the transfer gear bearing housing and minor external differences in respect of different breather arrangements.

[Native beats]

Sorry to Hijack the thread, but i had a very similar thing.
i left for work yesterday morning in my mini, parked it up and went to catch the train. When i left it she sounded sweet as a nut, nothing sounded wrong at all.
when i got back the next morning (i got stuck in london as the last train was cancelled) i went to start the mini and she fired up with a bit of choke and a couple tries, but with a very similar and quite loud grinding sort of sound coming from around that same area, and the rev counter was going crazy. Now call me stupid i know and i agree but i decided to drive the car home, as i'd had no sleep and a very bad day, felt ill and needed sleep. the Grinding sound continued all the way home, and was relative to the engine speed, however the car actually drove fine, it pulled fine after a while, if not a bit cold. anyway i took it slowly got home turned her off, and now when i try to start it i get nothing at all. it wont even try to throw the starter.

anyone shed any light at all? i've not had the flywheel apart or anything ever before so haven't fiddled with that in anyway.
many thanks.

[bmcecosse]

If the engine is tight to turn - strip and check. The bearing caps MUST go back exactly where they came from - and the right way round. Hard to imagine bolts have been over-torqued - if a torque wrench was used ?? Group effort engine build is doomed....... do it yourself and take time to do it correctly...... Is it possible the thrust washers have been left out ?

[Cooperman]

If the engine is tight to turn - strip and check. The bearing caps MUST go back exactly where they came from - and the right way round. Hard to imagine bolts have been over-torqued - if a torque wrench was used ?? Group effort engine build is doomed....... do it yourself and take time to do it correctly...... Is it possible the thrust washers have been left out ?

100% agree. If you have any doubts about bolt or nut torques, you must strip the engine and, if the big ends may have been done too tight, new big end bolts & nuts must be fitted. If the main nuts are only slightly too tight, new nuts are a must and new studs are very advisable too.
For the cost of these it's not worth risking a blown engine with the bits going down through the gearbox which could cost literally a couple of thousand quid to rectify.